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NEED to flush the motor, any suggestions?

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so with all my motor troubles that most of you guys know, i noticed the motor oil gets real nasty after a few minutes of running.....the oil is clean but this black gritty residue settles at the bottom of the drain pan,,,,,i can see it because i use a clear plastic drain pan......and it was in spots inside the motor when i took off the flywheel

i was thinking of using SEA FOAM or Marvel Mystery Oil to flush out the motor......any suggestions and how to do it would be appreciated

 

Edited by joethumper

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Is it a Xr200? If so did you pull the clutch cover off & clean out the oil filter rotor?

Mine was packed full of junk from the cam chain rubbing on the case.  Also with the clutch cover off you should be able to clean a lot of the stuff off the bottom of the engine cases.

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11 hours ago, xrcrf100 said:

Is it a Xr200? If so did you pull the clutch cover off & clean out the oil filter rotor?

Mine was packed full of junk from the cam chain rubbing on the case.  Also with the clutch cover off you should be able to clean a lot of the stuff off the bottom of the engine cases.

im kind of afraid to pull the cover......do you need to put a new gasket when you do?

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11 hours ago, xrcrf100 said:

Is it a Xr200? If so did you pull the clutch cover off & clean out the oil filter rotor?

Mine was packed full of junk from the cam chain rubbing on the case.  Also with the clutch cover off you should be able to clean a lot of the stuff off the bottom of the engine cases.

yeah when i changed the cam chain i saw a spot all worn off......i might as well just do it.....more time and money......lol....it'll be 2018 before i get to ride.....

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Yea, I would pull the cover, clean the slinger, and use a ton of brake cleaner.  I like it because it cuts right through the gunk and will leave the insides nice and clean with no residue. It does all the work.  Although, it has gotten expensive in the last few years. I'm sure everyone has their own way of doing it.  Just be careful scrapping the gasket, don't guage the case.  I use gasket remover. Let it soak.  Again, it does most of the work.  Just take a number of applications to get it 100%.  

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On 7/14/2017 at 9:05 PM, socalxr said:

Yea, I would pull the cover, clean the slinger, and use a ton of brake cleaner.  I like it because it cuts right through the gunk and will leave the insides nice and clean with no residue. It does all the work.  Although, it has gotten expensive in the last few years. I'm sure everyone has their own way of doing it.  Just be careful scrapping the gasket, don't guage the case.  I use gasket remover. Let it soak.  Again, it does most of the work.  Just take a number of applications to get it 100%.  

ok.....thanks 

 

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Try to identify the black gritty substance,.. its not normal. Fine gray or silver metallic is metal but black can really only be rubber (cam chain tensioner rubber) or maybe clutch plates. A magnet can identify steel. If your cam chain wore off some aluminum just above the bottom sprocket, that means it was extremely loose and most likely also wore down the tensioner rubbers. If you see that much, the oil slinger is most likely packed full. Better pull the cover and check the oil slinger before you starve the cam of oil.

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On 7/18/2017 at 10:19 PM, woodsryder said:

Try to identify the black gritty substance,.. its not normal. Fine gray or silver metallic is metal but black can really only be rubber (cam chain tensioner rubber) or maybe clutch plates. A magnet can identify steel. If your cam chain wore off some aluminum just above the bottom sprocket, that means it was extremely loose and most likely also wore down the tensioner rubbers. If you see that much, the oil slinger is most likely packed full. Better pull the cover and check the oil slinger before you starve the cam of oil.

sounds like you are on the money......its both black and rubber and aluminum.....and the cam chain was loose before i rebuilt her, i remember hearing it slap around when i was lugging her......i bought a gasket so ill be pulling off the cover and check out that slinger.....right now im running 1/4 marvel mystery oil and 3/4 motor oil in it.....hopefully that will loosen things up until i go into the motor.....thanks all

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I might worry about your cam lobes with the Marvel oil? I don't know the makeup but its is a very low viscosity oil where non- roller cams need something with extreme pressure additives. 

XR tensioners can stick and not take up slack, plus the springs seem weak on some. There is a threaded hole in the vertical plunger. After you take out the plug, you can screw a long 3mm screw into the plunger and pull up to assist the spring before locking the nut in place. I do mine running at idle so I can hear it. It always takes a little pull to quiet things down. I checked 3 tensioner springs I had and they all had different tensions.

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18 hours ago, woodsryder said:

I might worry about your cam lobes with the Marvel oil? I don't know the makeup but its is a very low viscosity oil where non- roller cams need something with extreme pressure additives. 

XR tensioners can stick and not take up slack, plus the springs seem weak on some. There is a threaded hole in the vertical plunger. After you take out the plug, you can screw a long 3mm screw into the plunger and pull up to assist the spring before locking the nut in place. I do mine running at idle so I can hear it. It always takes a little pull to quiet things down. I checked 3 tensioner springs I had and they all had different tensions.

interesting......yeah i just poke a sheet rock screw down there and push it up and down.......hope im doing the right thing with it.......

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18 hours ago, woodsryder said:

I might worry about your cam lobes with the Marvel oil? I don't know the makeup but its is a very low viscosity oil where non- roller cams need something with extreme pressure additives. 

XR tensioners can stick and not take up slack, plus the springs seem weak on some. There is a threaded hole in the vertical plunger. After you take out the plug, you can screw a long 3mm screw into the plunger and pull up to assist the spring before locking the nut in place. I do mine running at idle so I can hear it. It always takes a little pull to quiet things down. I checked 3 tensioner springs I had and they all had different tensions.

i think ill drain the oil today and use just motor oil........thanks

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18 hours ago, woodsryder said:

I might worry about your cam lobes with the Marvel oil? I don't know the makeup but its is a very low viscosity oil where non- roller cams need something with extreme pressure additives. 

XR tensioners can stick and not take up slack, plus the springs seem weak on some. There is a threaded hole in the vertical plunger. After you take out the plug, you can screw a long 3mm screw into the plunger and pull up to assist the spring before locking the nut in place. I do mine running at idle so I can hear it. It always takes a little pull to quiet things down. I checked 3 tensioner springs I had and they all had different tensions.

why the black rubber cap on the cam tensioner? .......pain to put back on and i think it looks ok without it......

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I don't use the rubber cap. Its hard to find a long 3mm screw to fit the tensioner threads. Motorcycle turn signal lens or tail light screws often work. Hobby shops also carry small metric screws. 

I just find that even if the plunger is free, the spring tension is barely enough so I help it by lifting the plunger and listening for the loose chain sound to go away before locking it down. If the flywheel is off, you can see how it all works

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