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Looking for more low end power

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I'm looking for more low end power the bike currently runs 80+ no problems but I don't ride more then 60 most days and was wanting to get some acceleration I was thinking bigger rear sprocket or smaller front sprocket is this correct? Will I need a new chain and to somehow adjust my spedo? Also when looking up how to adjust my chain tension some say to loosen the axle nut and some don't is it necessary?

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So are you looking for more power or just a gear ratio change? What sprockets are you running now? If they are relatively new a chain may not be necessary. Also, if looking for more power, what mods have you already done to the bike?

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A gear change I know these bikes aren't known for big hp lol. Stock sm sprockets and 300 miles on the whole bike. I've got a 3x3 and muffler right now but my jet kit is on the table at home and my head pipe is in the mail.

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Personally I wouldn't run the bike at all right now. You opened your intake and exhaust but didn't rejet, so you're running lean.
That aside, those mods, a well tuned carby, and a quick throttle will definitely feel stronger than stock. If you need more, a big bore and intake cam will help but sprockets are much cheaper

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If you only have 300 miles on the bike then a sprocket change will not require a chain. Yeah, a tooth or 3 will make the bike feel a lot punchier.

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Thanks which would you recommend down some teeth in the front or up some in the rear? The bike is running lean but I'm not riding it until the head pipe gets here and the jets get installed

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One down in the front is approximately 3 in the rear.  Front sprocket < $15 , rear sprocket $50 or more, if you want to save money change the front one and do the loctite fix at the same time. 

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Thanks y'all I'm def gonna ride it with the new parts first to see but I'm a torque junkie lol so I'm sure I'll end up with a tooth down in the front sooner or later 

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6 hours ago, DieselOutlaw said:

Thanks y'all I'm def gonna ride it with the new parts first to see but I'm a torque junkie lol so I'm sure I'll end up with a tooth down in the front sooner or later 

Smaller Counter shaft sprocket is Definitely advisable if that's what your after . Cons are more rub on the Chain guide .keep an eye out for that . If you go the route for a bigger rear sprocket your best bet is to get a chain sprocket combo . Reason being that with a bigger rear sprocket you may have very little if any clearance between the chain and chain guard in the rear .Having a longer chain will increase stability and any clearance issues .

Edited by xxcody2gunsxx
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8 hours ago, DieselOutlaw said:

Thanks which would you recommend down some teeth in the front or up some in the rear? The bike is running lean but I'm not riding it until the head pipe gets here and the jets get installed

One tooth down in the front is roughly equivalent to two teeth up in the back.  Down in front = lower gearing = more torque = quicker acceleration = less top speed.  Up in back = the same as down in front.  The size of the front sprocket is ultimately limited by the bend radius of the chain to 12 teeth or so.  Any lower gearing than that will require increasing the rear sprocket.

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39 minutes ago, xxcody2gunsxx said:

Smaller Counter shaft sprocket is Definitely advisable if that's what your after . Cons are more rub on the Chain guide .keep an eye out for that . If you go the route for a bigger rear sprocket your best bet is to get a chain sprocket combo . Reason being that with a bigger rear sprocket you may have very little if any clearance between the chain and chain guard in the rear .Having a longer chain will increase stability and any clearance issues .

So the fix would be up two or 3 in the back and remove the chain slash gaurd?

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1 minute ago, DieselOutlaw said:

So the fix would be up two or 3 in the back and remove the chain slash gaurd?

You will have to keep an eye on chain guards and chain rub pads.  Going down in teeth on the front sprocket will not require a longer chain, in fact you will have to move the rear wheel back to tighten the chain back up to spec.  Going up in the back is almost certainly going to require a longer chain.

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40 minutes ago, DieselOutlaw said:

So the fix would be up two or 3 in the back and remove the chain slash gaurd?

LOL.. No!
 Do not remove the chain guard . If  you go the route of adding a tooth or two or three in the rear then you will need and want to replace the chain so you have more links in the chain moving the rear wheel further back and will have more then enough clearance with the chain guard.

Edited by xxcody2gunsxx

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35 minutes ago, Bermudacat said:

14/47 is very doable............... :D

Which is + what front and rear?

20 minutes ago, xxcody2gunsxx said:

LOL.. No!
 Do not remove the chain guard . If  you go the route of adding a tooth or two or three in the rear then you will need and want to replace the chain so you have more links in the chain moving the rear wheel further back and will have more then enough clearance with the chain guard.

Gotcha for now I'll most likely just drop one tooth in the front and see what I think 

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21 minutes ago, DieselOutlaw said:

Which is + what front and rear?

For SM, stock is 15/41, so that would be -1/+6. Or a ratio change from 2.73 to 3.357.

For S, stock is 15/44, so that would be -1/+3. Or a ratio change from 2.93 to 3.357.

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4 minutes ago, HansLanda said:

For SM, stock is 15/41, so that would be -1/+6. Or a ratio change from 2.73 to 3.357.

For S, stock is 15/44, so that would be -1/+3. Or a ratio change from 2.93 to 3.357.

Thanks for explaining that. But that seems like a little much for me lol I think I'll just stick with the -1 up front when I do it

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