Jump to content

What lectron metering rod are you using? KTM300

Recommended Posts

I'm "jetting" my 2005 KTM 300 EXC and want to know what Lecrtron metering rod you're using. Slavens recommends a 3-2M and Lectron recommends a 2-3.  I'd be curious to know what metering rods you're using and what else you can tell me about your setup. 

 

Basics for me are Slavens' shaved head, KTM FMF pipe Q silencer, and pump gas. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm currently running a 3-2. Was running a 3-2M prior to that and quite honestly I can't tell any difference.

The 2-3 was too lean for me in the lower mid range.

I'm running Slavens S3 head (.048 squish), SX CDI, and 2016 porting.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is a 3-2m leaner or richer than a 3-2 ? I have a 4-2m in my 250 and its too rich. I keep having to back it out to clean it up off idle. It is quite a ways out so I am thinking of trying the next leaner needle.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The second number is the low-speed mixture, higher numbers are richer.  I think the "M" designation was designed by a now out of business shop called Motorsportz. That grind was slightly less rich than a normal "2" off idle. For the mid range mixture, the 4 is going to be richer than the three.  I think the top is mostly controlled by the power jet. Depending on where it's rich you could choose something like a 3-1. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Posted from a gasgas board in order of grind profile. Supposed ly came from mouth of someone at Lectron.

 

Lean

3-2

3-2m (1/2 step richer than 3-2)

3-2xl (technically richer because it is longer)

Rich

I would guess that the number usage would indicate the richer/leaner-top/bottom-higher/lower range information as stated in above posts

Edited by rjg
Add info

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lectron has confirmed that the 3-2M is indeed richer than the 3-2.  Why they don't call it the 3-2.5 is beyond me. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I wound up with a 2-3M.  Lectron says this is richer than the 3-2 but I don't think it is.  The M in this case stands for MotorSportz.  They were a tuning shop for Huskies. It was designed around the 300 class Husky/KTM motor.   I am not really sure if it's better than the 3-2 but it seems good now. It does have more snap and has the grunt I was looking for.  It seems better than the 2-3 but it might be in my head after having ordered, paid for and installed the rod.  At any rate, I am going to ride as is for a while. Happy with it as it sits. 

Here is the post from when Motorsportz was designing that rod

"I tried many rods in my recent testing and liked the mid range meaty pull better of the 3-2 (richer mid) but seemed to make the bike harder to start and was rich on the bottom. Via my feedback to Lectron they cut me a custom rod that is lean on idle and initial low end then gets rich like the 3-2 rod and ends about where the 3-1 rod was."

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Interesting. Long story short I have the 4-2m and Brooks at lectron says the next leanest needle is the 3-2. I ordered one and we will see. There seems to be some conflicting info on needles. Lectron should have a chart listing the common 2 stroke needles from lean to rich.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

My lectron came with a 4-2m for my 2017 300. Could never get it snappy off idle after install. Finally got them to send me a 5-1 and it was a BIG improvement.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎7‎/‎14‎/‎2017 at 3:28 PM, Adam N. said:

I'm "jetting" my 2005 KTM 300 EXC and want to know what Lecrtron metering rod you're using. Slavens recommends a 3-2M and Lectron recommends a 2-3.  I'd be curious to know what metering rods you're using and what else you can tell me about your setup. 

 

Basics for me are Slavens' shaved head, KTM FMF pipe Q silencer, and pump gas. 

 

We are setting all the 17 300,s with 5-1 rod @ 2.004 - 2.007 Clean off the bottom crisp throughout with power jet @ 1 1/8  1000 ft to 7k spot on

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites



We are setting all the 17 300,s with 5-1 rod @ 2.004 - 2.007 Clean off the bottom crisp throughout with power jet @ 1 1/8  1000 ft to 7k spot on
The five one that I installed in my 17 is a hell of a lot better than the 4-2 M that it came with so I'm glad I'm not the only one

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I threw my pwk back on tonight because I am tired of messing with the lectron at the moment. I will go back to it. Where does the 5-1 rod seem to stand in relation to the 4-2m ? richer or leaner and were ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
I threw my pwk back on tonight because I am tired of messing with the lectron at the moment. I will go back to it. Where does the 5-1 rod seem to stand in relation to the 4-2m ? richer or leaner and were ?
It's leaner down low but then progresses into a fuel more quickly Perry right out of the box it worked pretty well and I have not touched anything since but my 300 is still not as Snappy off idle as my dad's identical 17300 with a JD jet kit

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I sent Lectron an email about this suggesting the needles should be listed with decimal places.  So, instead of 3-2M it would be 3-2.5 or whatever.  So, really, it would be nice if the profile was just listed as some sort of real number based on the measurement of the rod. I don't even know what 3-2 means.  Is it the depth of the cutaway or something? 

People do like the "simplicity" of the Lectron system as far as elevation and temperature changes go. On the other hand, tuning is weird because you're changing the main, pilot and needle all at once, like it or not. Then when the new rod comes you're starting in some arbitrary place as far as the installed height of the rod goes. At least with a normal carb, you can leave 90% of stuff (other jets, needles or things like the air screw or clip position) in place and just work on the one circuit.   

In reality, I may have just wound up with the rod set to a better height rather than having the right rod. 

When the carb is tuned right it's pretty darn nice.  The problem is that unlike a normal carb you must mess with every circuit at once. 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

"I tried many rods in my recent testing and liked the mid range meaty pull better of the 3-2 (richer mid) but seemed to make the bike harder to start and was rich on the bottom. Via my feedback to Lectron they cut me a custom rod that is lean on idle and initial low end then gets rich like the 3-2 rod and ends about where the 3-1 rod was."

I'm on a 200, but there's some good info here for me, too. I have the 3-2 rod and am experiencing the same difficult starting issues. And when I say difficult, I mean nearly impossible. I have to go through a series of kicks, choke up-downs, and a couple of Gregorian chants for good measure just to get the thing to fire. My ritual usually ends with me having to drift down a hill in neutral, clutch pulled and kicking like a madman while standing on the peg (I'm a little guy, so I have to stand on the starter to kick hard enough). Lectron initially asked me their typical questions of the bike, understandably questioning the motor condition etc. I let them know quick it starts 1st kick with my Keihin installed.

My problem is, I don't know where to go from here. Tbh Lectron told me "we've done so many of these, dyno testing them, that we've got it down to a science." Kinda felt like they were telling me that I'm doing something wrong. Mind you, I've already had to send the carb back once to have a faulty choke replaced. Since I've bought the carb new, I've never gotten it to start easily cold. It came set way too lean. Needed 3/4 turn richer to tune out the lean bog off idle.

Sorry, don't mean to thread hijack. But I thought it odd my problem echoed this post.
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm on a 200, but there's some good info here for me, too. I have the 3-2 rod and am experiencing the same difficult starting issues. And when I say difficult, I mean nearly impossible. I have to go through a series of kicks, choke up-downs, and a couple of Gregorian chants for good measure just to get the thing to fire. My ritual usually ends with me having to drift down a hill in neutral, clutch pulled and kicking like a madman while standing on the peg (I'm a little guy, so I have to stand on the starter to kick hard enough). Lectron initially asked me their typical questions of the bike, understandably questioning the motor condition etc. I let them know quick it starts 1st kick with my Keihin installed.

My problem is, I don't know where to go from here. Tbh Lectron told me "we've done so many of these, dyno testing them, that we've got it down to a science." Kinda felt like they were telling me that I'm doing something wrong. Mind you, I've already had to send the carb back once to have a faulty choke replaced. Since I've bought the carb new, I've never gotten it to start easily cold. It came set way too lean. Needed 3/4 turn richer to tune out the lean bog off idle.

Sorry, don't mean to thread hijack. But I thought it odd my problem echoed this post.
Wild. I've never even used my choke

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Wild. I've never even used my choke

Yeah, Lectron says the choke is extremely aggressive, and most don't have to use it

 

Oddly enough, last week I went to go for a ride. Forgot to take the exhaust plug out. Lately I've been trying to do a couple "priming" kicks, just 2-3 gentle kicks. With the plug in, the bike briefly started with just a light, 2nd kick and the choke off. But of course, it immediately died with the plug in. Lectron claimed a downstream blockage wouldn't affect it. But I disagree. At a point in every stroke of the piston, the system is wide open from the carb through the tip of the silencer. Heck, that's the whole concept of the oddly shaped expansion chambers on these 2 strokes. IMO I choked the carb. Still, I will concede it may have been a fluke, since I haven't been able to recreate it.

 

I still feel either something is wrong with my carb, or I have a very wrong metering rod. I don't care what their dyno tests say.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×