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Newbie 2017 500 RR-S clutch issue

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Got a new one to me. Went for a 20 minute ride this evening. Noticed about half way through that my clutch was "going down". By the time I was a mile from the house I had to pull it to the bar to engage it. And when I pulled in the garage I couldn't even get it in enough to stop. When I turned the bike off I heard a hissing/sucking noise that went on for a few seconds and then dissipated. When I pulled the clutch it was back to its normal adjustment.... The only thing that I have done recently was to replace the countershaftseal.That sounded about like the general area that the hissing was coming from.Any thoughts onwhat could cause this? My dealer is over four hours away so running it by there is not a viable option. I have a six-day trip coming up so I need to figure this out?

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A couple of things to possibly check. 

Any fluid leaking in or around your slave cylinder or master cylinder?  

Check fluid level in master cylinder and while the cover is off, see if you can hear any sucking air noise coming from the master cylinder when engaging the clutch. 

Pull off slave cylinder and make sure the rubber seal and o ring are both positioned properly. 

 

Hope this helps..

Edited by firffighter

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I've had similar problems on a trials bike. Replacing the master cyclinder plunger/piston cured the problem. 

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More than likely the hissing was not related.
You probably incurred a large air bubble in the hydralic line. 
Did you have the bike on it's side for a few hours ?

Never for more than a few seconds. And not even that for over a month. It's a sound I've never heard. At first I thought it was a result of setting up my suspension last week. Sounded like it was coming from the shock area. Strange to have both things happen for the first time on the same ride. Would air potentially make it get progressively worse throughout the ride? Keep in mind that I was on the road shifting but not working the clutch.

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The fuel caps are known to make those noises. Pull the green thing and toss it. It sounds as if your bike was running really hot and pressurizing the fuel tank making the sound. The clutch may also have been affected by the heat. Flush the clutch fluid, you probably have a air bubble in the line and or the fluid has degraded. I'm going through the same thing with the clutch myself, I've rigged up a hose on the fitting by the countershaft with a loop in it and am going to pump new fluid through.

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17 hours ago, firffighter said:

A couple of things to possibly check. 

Any fluid leaking in or around your slave cylinder or master cylinder?  

Check fluid level in master cylinder and while the cover is off, see if you can hear any sucking air noise coming from the master cylinder when engaging the clutch. 

Pull off slave cylinder and make sure the rubber seal and o ring are both positioned properly. 

 

Hope this helps..

I do not have any external leaks, I will take the cover off the master cylinder. I assume that it is ok to pull the clutch when the cover is off? As far as the slave cylinder, if I take the slave off will I loose fluid and have to bleed it? Never done that before but would be fun to learn. Are all of the seals reusable or should I have them on hand? Thanks for the input. I will show my thanks by visiting you and going for a 5 day ride! :) my treat.  

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2 hours ago, newk75 said:

I do not have any external leaks, I will take the cover off the master cylinder. I assume that it is ok to pull the clutch when the cover is off? As far as the slave cylinder, if I take the slave off will I loose fluid and have to bleed it? Never done that before but would be fun to learn. Are all of the seals reusable or should I have them on hand? Thanks for the input. I will show my thanks by visiting you and going for a 5 day ride! :) my treat.  

Take the master cylinder cover off and ensure you have sufficient amount of fluid.  Shouldn't be at least 1/2 way or more full of fluid.  If you have proper amount of fluid, you can engage your clutch to check that it's working properly and not sucking in air or you're not losing fluid.  

If you hear a sucking noise it may be an indication that you need a master cylinder rebuilt kit, as you may have a improperly functioning plunger. 

If you are low on fluid, this can be a sign that the slave cylinder has a damaged or not properly seated rubber seal or o ring around your piston. Do NOT engage your clutch with slave cylinder off as this can damage the slave cylinder housing.  You will not lose fluid by removing the slave cylinder.

It could be simply the rubber seal isn't properly seated which can cause exactly what you described.

Or, it could simply be an air bubbles caught between the slave cylinder and master cylinder in which case you simply need to bleed the system thoroughly.

Hope this helps.

BTW, come on down for a tour! I only charge beer and pizza! 

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Quick update. Did all or most of the things suggested here to no avail. My buddy who owns a bike shop said he would take a look. As it turns out I had just put on an obie linkage guard and had pinched the vent tube coming from the top of the clutch case between the frame and guard. I'm guessing this is the hissing noise problem. Went through the whole clutch, with his help. Bled it, no air, no leaks, had fluid. We will see if it acts up again. Thanks for the input, I thought this might help trouble shoot for someone in the future.

Sent from my SM-G930V using ThumperTalk mobile app

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I just filled and pumped through new fluid from the top down, it came out slightly grayish but mostly clear. So far so good on clutch action. May have had a bubble?

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On 7/18/2017 at 5:54 PM, ccullins said:

I've had similar problems on a trials bike. Replacing the master cyclinder plunger/piston cured the problem. 

If there was a leak or air in the system it wouldn't go back to normal feel. I believe this pretty likely your issue. 

 

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Edited by ccullins
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On 7/22/2017 at 9:09 AM, Johnny Depp said:

I just filled and pumped through new fluid from the top down, it came out slightly grayish but mostly clear. So far so good on clutch action. May have had a bubble?

The only time I lost my lever was on a nasty rockfest. My experience has been to simply replace fluid. Sounds like you boiled the fluid and moisture entered the system. Over the years I've found that the OEM dot 4/5.1 fluid just does not work good enough for extreme conditions. OTOH, the high temp race fluids can take anything you throw at them. 

It does come at a price though. The stock 5.1 brake fluid will last for years and years for normal everyday riding. I have seen 10 year old DOT 4 brake fluid in Honda trail bikes still holding up. It just can't handle the heat of extreme temps when rock crawling. 

The 600/660 fluids will handle the heat. They have to be changed frequently though due to collecting moisture. I typically change my brake fluid at least twice a season. When I was racing it got changed every race.

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