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Bike (230F) had sat for about 10 months. Now it won't start. So new battery, emptied tank and put in fresh fuel, took carb bowl off and took jets out and sprayed everything with carb cleaner. Float moves freely.  New spark plug. I have spark, checked fuse which is obviously good. I can see fuel in the inline fuel filter. It turns over but doesn't even want to try to start. What am I missing?

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40 minutes ago, dillsley said:

Bike (230F) had sat for about 10 months. Now it won't start. So new battery, emptied tank and put in fresh fuel, took carb bowl off and took jets out and sprayed everything with carb cleaner. Float moves freely.  New spark plug. I have spark, checked fuse which is obviously good. I can see fuel in the inline fuel filter. It turns over but doesn't even want to try to start. What am I missing?

Could you see through the pilot jet?

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If one of these three are missing, its the problem:

1) compression
2) ignition
3) fuel

Take the air filter out, turn on key, press starter button while spraying a can of spray carb cleaner in the air going into the air filter box, if it runs, then the carb is still not right.
Did you set the float level properly?

If not running still, then it's, more than likely, #1 or
#2

Are the engine valves properly adjusted?
Is the spark plug properly gapped?
Is the battery fully charged so the starter is turning the engine rapidly?

Let us know what you come up with.

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The pilot jet looked a little clogged. It appears there is a small protrusion that I can't seem to remove. You would think it would come clean with a wire down it. Maybe I'll just get a new one. I noticed just after I try to start the bike I turned the gas off before I took off the float bowl. There was a little residual gas that came out the fuel when I pulled the gas line off the carb but there was no gas in the float bowl. I'm thinking the fuel filter may be clogged too?

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13 minutes ago, dillsley said:

I'll try the carb cleaner tomorrow

No, don't do that. The only carb cleaner strong enough will also cause damage.

You need to sonically clean the pilot jet or replace it. 

If you have a lot of patience, you can ream all the holes with #32 wire, but you will not get the inside of the jet cleaned from corrosion

You need to treat your fuel, every tank, for ethanol and other corrison substances. 

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Looks like I'll be replacing the pilot jet and fuel filter and then we'll see what happens. As long as I'm doing that I'm thinking I may go one step larger on the pilot? Currently I'm running a 120 main and a 45 pilot which seems to be the magic number here. I have been dealing with some popping on decel which I believe means a lean condition. The plug looks to be 3/4 dark tan and 1/4 white. Would I go one step larger with the pilot or the main jet? What fuel treatment is recommended here?

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Bikes that won't crank after setting are always clogged jets. The fact that it will not crank, it's the pilot, although the main may be blocked as well. Cleaning the carb..... is usually better summed up by cleaning the jets. However, if this does not fix it with new jets... or old jets that you can see through, then the emulision channels may be blocked. Those are the air passages coming from the mouth side air funnel type ventri, those little holes that look to be the size of a pencil lead. Usually not blocked, but has happened. 5% chance. Jets blocked, 95% chance. The side of the pilot jet has holes in it that also need to be opened up for the air to mix with the fuel. As far as which size. 42,45 and 48 will all run fine. One will run sliiiiiightly better. Based on your decel popping, 48 may be better. But not positive. Reaming out the jets as you try to clean them is a reality and will change your size slightly and lose your "base line" as a standard to tune from. A wire brush bristle will usually work, but I would only do that to get it going, mark the jet as bad and throw it away once you get a new one. When tuning a carb, everything is relative to the other jets. "A little richer than the last" or leaner, but if you have lost your standard, then it like trying to sight in a rifle scope that is mounted loosely. Even switching brands of jets can cause tuning frustration. So as you progress with tuning, try to protect your jets by keeping your sizes true

Edited by 1gr8bldr

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Remember to check out the mixture screw, If there is any moisture on the outside (the O-ring is not sealing properly, which may cause a lean mixture) or if there is some dirt on it, or in the passage (same symptom).

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Looks like I'll be replacing the pilot jet and fuel filter and then we'll see what happens. As long as I'm doing that I'm thinking I may go one step larger on the pilot? Currently I'm running a 120 main and a 45 pilot which seems to be the magic number here. I have been dealing with some popping on decel which I believe means a lean condition. The plug looks to be 3/4 dark tan and 1/4 white. Would I go one step larger with the pilot or the main jet? What fuel treatment is recommended here?

IMG_0194.JPG
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Okay, I put new 48 pilot in and fired right up even though I had used two fuel treatment . Maybe 10 months is way to long for anything.  Still have a bit of popping on decel. I'm wondering though in the process of trying to figure out the starting problem I took off the petcock thinking it was clogged and tried to clean out what I thought was gunk at the very bottom of the petcock with a sharp pointed tiny pick. Now when the petcock is in the off position there is a small amount of gas that  comes out. Is that normal or do I need a new petcock. Maybe I punctured something? Thanks to everyone who replied to my problem. Time to ride!

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15 hours ago, dillsley said:

Okay, I put new 48 pilot in and fired right up even though I had used two fuel treatment . Maybe 10 months is way to long for anything.  Still have a bit of popping on decel

48 sounds like fuel screw passages are plugged.  With bike warmed, when you turn the fuel screw at lowest idle, does it affect the idle speed?  How many turns out on fuel screw is highest idle?  45 should be perfect.

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Mine tuned on the AFR at 42 to 45. 43.5 would be perfect. However, bike under a small load, the 42 was tuning best. So, just so you know, small is better than larger on account of "under load", best is the lower jet. These bikes will run with, 42,45,48 and you can hardly feel the difference. So any of them will be fine. 

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5 hours ago, 1gr8bldr said:

Mine tuned on the AFR at 42 to 45. 43.5 would be perfect. However, bike under a small load, the 42 was tuning best. So, just so you know, small is better than larger on account of "under load", best is the lower jet. These bikes will run with, 42,45,48 and you can hardly feel the difference. So any of them will be fine. 

I've read all of your carb mod topics, but my memory doesn't help me 😩 did you test the air cut valve disable mod?

https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/air-cut-off-valve-disable/

Did you notice any difference?

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52 minutes ago, RND.23 said:

I've read all of your carb mod topics, but my memory doesn't help me 😩 did you test the air cut valve disable mod?

https://crf230fmods.wordpress.com/air-cut-off-valve-disable/

Did you notice any difference?

The air cut mod bypass made zero difference in performance...... but was a suspect in my EO exhaust being so loud on decel. Likely not, but others have said their's  was not loud but mine was a blaster

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