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looking for stator and flywheel torques

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So, while my engine is apart, I want to ensure I am getting these torques correctly, I don't want to have to do these again (well, until my stator fails lol) Blue Loctite on the stator bolts and Red on the Magneto wheel.

Honestly, don't even remember what I torqued them to now. I don't want to strip out the Magnesium case or the flywheel

I do have marked 10.9s on my flywheel with allen heads. what is the best way to get these with a torque wrench? I ask this because I used a socket mounted hex, and the thickness of the socket part, made for a weird angle into the hole, not the best for not stripping and proper torque

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The bolts holding the starter gear on to the flywheel is 20ft/lbs , I think I went a little higher with my 12.9 bolts , maybe 25ft/lbs . I have 1/4" & 3/8" drive allen sockets for using  ratchets and torque wrenches . The stator to the cover and it's JIS head screws, IIRC, is just as tight as I could get it with the JIS bit in my impact driver and a hit or 2 on the driver with a mallet to snug them up good . I never use Loc-Tite one any of those bolts on any motor . Have e'ffed with too many over the years when impact drivers ,then various attempts of grabbing the heads with this/that trying to break the crap loose , even had a few bolts break of , They'll stay put when tightened correctly without being locked , but don't just tighten with a regular hand driver , needs an impact driver with correct JIS tip.

 

If you need some good bolts for your stator I can send some , for free . I get a box at a time with bolts so I have a lot . Anything else needed just ask.

DSCN1530.JPG

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you have extra blue ones in the pic? and, from what I remember reading here, the red loctite is suppsoed to be used on the magneto wheel

my allen set is a 3/8" so maybe that is my issue.... I do have 1/4", 3/8" and 1/2" torque wrenches... also, I don't have JIS screws on my stator, I have allen  capheads there

Edited by 74jimbo

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Could be Suzuki used allenhead to hold the stator on , been about 2 years since I touched that area on either of my motors and most of what I've been dealing with lately has been Yamaha & Kawasaki , they all use something different .  I'd still only use blue if you wanted to , I only put the blue bolts in and blue loc-Tite on the flywheel . 

It's the blue bolts I can send , They are 12.9 grade and I get the blue coated so they stand out as to what they are and don't get mixed with normal bolts .

 

.

Edited by jjktmrider

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might as well change mine, since I am in there...

How much? I can paypal you a few bucks :)

I think I read they are supposed to be JIS, but I am finding a lot of stuff on my bike is not stock.... like I also think I have a mcct, and I believe I should have an auto tensioner

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Well see if there is other little things that you need or is missing , I have a bunch of spare parts ,pieces , fasteners laying around and should clean house of extras . Heck if you had a Yamaha I'd have enough to make a whole bike or 2 including the motors.

 

.

Edited by jjktmrider

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What else you got? I am pretty much rebuilding my motor.....

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I have a crank and a pile of seals . For this motor mostly just nuts & bolts that'll fit , not much new big parts for rebuilding a topend , set of valves and springs ,keepers, complete head,  though I do have a new 94mm piston , but that's for a test along with a cam set with it.

 

.

Edited by jjktmrider

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5 hours ago, jjktmrider said:

If you need some good bolts for your stator I can send some , for free . I get a box at a time with bolts so I have a lot . Anything else needed just ask.

DSCN1530.JPG

The bollts matching the Loctite is a nice, nice touch; but aren't blue bolts for Yamahas? ;)

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14 hours ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

Are those bolts m6 or 8, I can't remember. My 06 manual gives 7 ft-lbs as the torque. Even with 10.9's, 15 ft-lbs would be about the maximum dry torque and 11 if lubed.

The 2005 SUZUKI manual calls out 10 N-m (1.0kgf-m, 7.0 lb-ft) :)

Edited by Bermudacat
SUZUKI

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Page 77 in the Suzuki factory manual , not Clymer , states starter clutch bolts 19lb-ft ~26N-m , I don't know about the stator to cover bolts , those weren't the ones I was referring to . I personally just tighten this type of stuff up by feel and done , not absolutely critical like a cam cap bolt or head bolt.

Unfortunately this is going to be yet another one of those threads that everyone will have different opinions , one says this should be done , the next says no this is the way , and the next says their way is the only way . It does no good but to confuse the crap to anyone trying to rebuild for the first time . I'll leave and let this go wherever it goes.  Feel free to pm me Jim if you wish but I won't post anything .

 

.

Edited by jjktmrider

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I'm not trying to argue but I will say a few thing. Bolts shouldn't be torqued past 75% of their yield strength. Quick math, it may be wrong as I didn't double check it, 19 ft-lbs on a M6 bolt is a clamp load of approx 6900 lbs, and works out to be 160% of yield strength for a 10.9. I suspect that is why it would be important to loctite them, they have yielded.

 

I just helicoiled a shock mount on my Beta yesterday because I followed the manuals torque recommendation.

 

7 lbs is from my Factory manual.

 

Advising customers the correct method and value to tension the fasteners on their machines is part of my job.

 

Sent from my XT1650 using ThumperTalk mobile app

 

 

 

 

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