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2016 500 RS Fuel Injection Issues

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My 500 RS has about 1,500 miles on it. It's mostly ridden on wide trails in West Virginia. I hadn't had any issues with the FI before yesterday, when just after unloading it at a trailhead and doing a few quick runs up and down the street doing wheelies, it started to sputter and then it died and the FI light came on. I tried starting it again several times, and it started and died a couple of those times. Then the battery ran down and I started kicking it to start it. The FI light keeps coming on and it just wont start.

I haven't done a whole lot of mods to this bike besides installing the FMF Q4 slip on muffler and an IMS 3 gallon gas tank. I suspected the gas tank, but it's been on there for several months and 10+ riding days with no issues.

 

One other issue that started a couple weeks ago is the speedo doesn't reliably work, It will often just go to 0 and randomly start working intermittently again. I cleaned the magnet and the sensor, but that didn't change the way it works. I doubt that these 2 issues are related, but I suppose they could be. 

The last time I pressure washed it was on July 7th to prepare it for a funeral ride for my buddy who died on a 4 wheeler on July 5th. That could be what messed up the speedo, but the bike ran fine for the funeral ride, the ride I went on the following weekend, and a few other short rides around my house.

I took the gas tank off and disconnected the wires to the fuel pump, throttle body, and injector, and I also pulled out the injector to check for any visible clogs, but I didn't see any.

I don't know what's wrong or how to fix it now.

 

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That's just the nature of EFI for all bikes that have it.. I'm thinking that there's an efi thread that will sort of help with the trouble shooting in case of problems..You might   be looking on other brand threads for what guys do for problems with their efi and adopt the protocol for your newer Beta 4t. Beta is newer for EFI  ( 2016 for all 4t models  rrs) ...and there haven't been many if any reported problems. I'm sure your thread here will have some paying attention. At least the newer Beta enduro 4t riders will look to take notes in case they have to go what you're going through. At least you had a dummy light that flashed.

Be happy that you weren't deep in some hard to get out trail when you had your problem.

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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Most likely it is just a a bad connection. The BETA line is not known for having great electrical connections in some parts of the harness.

The fuel pump filter is HUGE, unlike the other brands out there.  It's the same filter used on the Audi A4 !

I would say that is not the problem, unless you poured sugar in your tank.

I would work backwards from the last thing the YOU touched to seed if something is loose.

A loose battery connection could do it. 

The other area to check is the TPS. If the wire/harness to the TPS is cut or melted, the FI stops working correctly. There are also two sensors in the same area, and those also go 'FI Trouble' if disconnected.

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Last time I had an FI light come on it was because of faulty wire connection. I would definitely start there since they are easy to check and eliminate as the problem. At least before you start diving in the tank.

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I suspect this is an electrical connection problem, but something I was made aware of by my dealer last weekend was they'd had problems with early FI bikes where the clamps for the intake manifold between the throttle body and cylinder head weren't very good and air leaks were developing. When they went to tighten the clamps the clamps just gave up so they replaced them with better clamps, problems solved. He said the symptoms were it would get progressively worse running as the air leak(s) increased. So far I haven't encountered this yet on my bike.

I'm going to take a look at my clamps and probably upgrade them if they look cheesy just to be proactive. Air leaks are a bad thing all the way around.

He also said they had some issues with early FI bikes with the TPS being out of adjustment and needing to be reset which is done with the dealer computer system. I don't think that would cause it to not run, but run poorly.

Edited by danketchpel

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I charged the batter back up and tried to start it today. It will turn over a couple times, and then the starter makes a buzz sound. Won't start when I kick it either. The FI light no longer comes on, but it won't start.

I noticed some air filter oil on the swingarm and remembered that I changed the air filter right before the ride where it stopped working. It was still a little damp before I put it in and I wrung it out what I though was good enough before installing it. I wonder if the filter being slightly soggy with filter oil could have caused something in the throttle body to mess up or the spark plug to foul. Has anyone had issues related to a damp air filter?

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On ‎7‎/‎23‎/‎2017 at 2:22 PM, jiveabillion said:

One other issue that started a couple weeks ago is the speedo doesn't reliably work, It will often just go to 0 and randomly start working intermittently again. I cleaned the magnet and the sensor, but that didn't change the way it works. I doubt that these 2 issues are related, but I suppose they could be. 

 

 This problem has been around forever, that's probably why no one answered, it's so common. The interface where Voyager meets Beta is the problem, the plastic connector is inconsistent. I have bent the inside connector to increase contact and it still F's up. I usually just switch the screen to the GPS speedo. I've got about 1200 miles on that odo and about half that on the wheel sensor one. It really should have been addressed by now.

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14 minutes ago, Johnny Depp said:

 This problem has been around forever, that's probably why no one answered, it's so common. The interface where Voyager meets Beta is the problem, the plastic connector is inconsistent. I have bent the inside connector to increase contact and it still F's up. I usually just switch the screen to the GPS speedo. I've got about 1200 miles on that odo and about half that on the wheel sensor one. It really should have been addressed by now.

First time for me....I've never heard of it.. but thanks.. I'm actually sort of happy to keep my 525 RS when I hear this stuff.. but it's just motorcycles I guess. .. just something to go through with dialectic grease before riding??? another pre ride prep for bikes???

Edited by hawaiidirtrider

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So now it doesn't even start at all?  Hot or cold?  I was about ready to suggest bad coil.  My 2008 Husky TE 250 (FI) had a bad coil and it would die after a couple minutes of riding.  I tried everything.  (fuel pump, clean injectors, tinkered with ECU, spark plug/wires, new gas...)

The only things I hadn't replaced were the coil and ECU.  Coil did the trick.

But if your bike is not starting at all, I doubt it's a bad coil.  Sounds like your fuel system might be clogged up with something.

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12 hours ago, jiveabillion said:

I charged the batter back up and tried to start it today. It will turn over a couple times, and then the starter makes a buzz sound. Won't start when I kick it either. The FI light no longer comes on, but it won't start.

I noticed some air filter oil on the swingarm and remembered that I changed the air filter right before the ride where it stopped working. It was still a little damp before I put it in and I wrung it out what I though was good enough before installing it. I wonder if the filter being slightly soggy with filter oil could have caused something in the throttle body to mess up or the spark plug to foul. Has anyone had issues related to a damp air filter?

IF your throttle body was coated with FFO then the bike wouldn't start or run good but no FI light would come on. Does the fuel pump run? Every Beta needs every connector checked and dielectric grease applied (if used in wet areas). Not doing this you will have headaches.

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1 hour ago, weantright said:

IF your throttle body was coated with FFO then the bike wouldn't start or run good but no FI light would come on. Does the fuel pump run? Every Beta needs every connector checked and dielectric grease applied (if used in wet areas). Not doing this you will have headaches.

I haven't done the grease, but I can.

The FI light stopped coming on. I have to go pick up my KTM 300 from the shop today, so I'm going to swap it with my 500 and let them see what's wrong with it.

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17 hours ago, hawaiidirtrider said:

First time for me....I've never heard of it.. but thanks.. I'm actually sort of happy to keep my 525 RS when I hear this stuff.. but it's just motorcycles I guess. .. just something to go through with dialectic grease before riding??? another pre ride prep for bikes???

While I was chasing my electrical issue I make a modification today to my speedo input wiring that I hope  solves the issue. I removed the wobbly connector from the metal "connector board" and zip tied it together to apply pressure. No grease.

 

IMG_0111.JPG

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On ‎7‎/‎27‎/‎2017 at 0:37 PM, Johnny Depp said:

While I was chasing my electrical issue I make a modification today to my speedo input wiring that I hope  solves the issue. I removed the wobbly connector from the metal "connector board" and zip tied it together to apply pressure. No grease.

 

IMG_0111.JPG

 So far so good on the Odo/speedo fix. The empty hole for the clip is holding one side firmly and the other side is constantly getting yanked up and down with the forks going through their travel and attached to the brake line. I separated it from the brake line and the metal frame so that it can float more freely as the forks move. The zip tie stops all the movement on that clip. I've got it between the Voyager and the front headlight mask so it doesn't block they Voyager as much. The front brake line sure does block it though.

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Before I dropped it off at the dealership, I was able to get it to start and run for about 30 seconds before it cut off.

I actually do think it's a loose connection somewhere because of the way the starter behaves on a full battery. It will kick the engine over once or twice, but then buzz or spin out, like it's not getting enough power. The behavior isn't very consistent either, sometimes it will start and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will run for a few seconds, sometimes it will die immediately after starting. It's pretty frustrating.

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On 7/24/2017 at 1:06 PM, danketchpel said:

I suspect this is an electrical connection problem, but something I was made aware of by my dealer last weekend was they'd had problems with early FI bikes where the clamps for the intake manifold between the throttle body and cylinder head weren't very good and air leaks were developing. When they went to tighten the clamps the clamps just gave up so they replaced them with better clamps, problems solved. He said the symptoms were it would get progressively worse running as the air leak(s) increased. So far I haven't encountered this yet on my bike.

I'm going to take a look at my clamps and probably upgrade them if they look cheesy just to be proactive. Air leaks are a bad thing all the way around.

He also said they had some issues with early FI bikes with the TPS being out of adjustment and needing to be reset which is done with the dealer computer system. I don't think that would cause it to not run, but run poorly.

I had a wire get pinched at the steering stop, that diabled the starting. Re routed it, and spliced it. Can't remember anymore what the wire was for.

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Before I dropped it off at the dealership, I was able to get it to start and run for about 30 seconds before it cut off.
I actually do think it's a loose connection somewhere because of the way the starter behaves on a full battery. It will kick the engine over once or twice, but then buzz or spin out, like it's not getting enough power. The behavior isn't very consistent either, sometimes it will start and sometimes it won't. Sometimes it will run for a few seconds, sometimes it will die immediately after starting. It's pretty frustrating.

This almost sounds like a ground wire problem. If the starter is buzzing and not turning over the engine the connections are carrying the current load. A bad ground circuit would produce both problems.

2017 Beta 500 RR-S
2013 Husky TR 650

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