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Yamalube 2R is Awesome!

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Clean as hell burning oil. Rode for about 5 hours. Bike ran great, not very much smoke at all and no spooge. At first I was thinking the bike was running lean but there's just no way, shows no sympotoms of such. 32:1, I am sticking with this oil.

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Wait until you take it apart and look at your power valve. You may change your mind. It's decent oil, but not as clean as a full synthetic like Amsoil Interceptor that leaves no carbon deposits behind.

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1 hour ago, YZF1825 said:

Clean as hell burning oil. Rode for about 5 hours. Bike ran great, not very much smoke at all and no spooge. At first I was thinking the bike was running lean but there's just no way, shows no sympotoms of such. 32:1, I am sticking with this oil.

Pay no attention to that northern brother in the BC, All oil leaves a little residue in the PV cavity. I have used the 2R for years in SoCal, and I will use it in AZ also.

1 hour ago, mcgradybrandt said:

Wait until you take it apart and look at your power valve. You may change your mind. It's decent oil, but not as clean as a full synthetic like Amsoil Interceptor that leaves no carbon deposits behind.

Just messing with you, but I really have been running it for years and don't have a problem with a gummy, oil deposited PV cavity. Been minimul drip out the PV tube also. 

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How often do I take power valve apart? I just replaced the thin gasket on the cover then the little flexible rubber gasket for the bottom of the cover..only thing is i rode about 5 hours today and it leaks next to that rubber gasket.  I can wiggle the gasket with my finger so if thate a recommended sealant I can use? And also what was looking to be leaking was mix gas or something. It was a dark and oily. 

20170723_143145.jpg

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There is a seal on the shaft that goes through to the PV cavity. That seal an/or the head will wear. A new seal usually cures the problem but the head can get worn needing a bushing also. Seal is easier to replace when the top end is being redone as the power valve cavity screws are hard to get to with the frame in the way. 

Get to it when you do the top end or at least in 20-30 hours. 

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2 hours ago, P84ONE said:

Pay no attention to that northern brother in the BC, All oil leaves a little residue in the PV cavity. I have used the 2R for years in SoCal, and I will use it in AZ also.

Just messing with you, but I really have been running it for years and don't have a problem with a gummy, oil deposited PV cavity. Been minimul drip out the PV tube also. 

I was referring to the power valve "flapper" in the exhaust port that tends to get carboned up by most oils. I don't usually take it apart to clean the residue, but the flapper always moves freely with the oil I use.  To each his/ her own, but it is known fact that whether or not a full synthetic is needed, Yamalube 2R is not a full synthetic oil.

 

Regarding the oil coating on the crank with Interceptor, the main reason I alluded to that was that many people like to argue that Interceptor is too thin to leave a nice protective coating on the engine internals compared to double ester oils like Motul.

 

Edited by mcgradybrandt
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I've run Interceptor at 32:1 in my MX track ridden 2010 YZ125,

during each top end refurb the visible internals (crank, rod) are always well coated, even after 5-6 months of storage

(I still fog the engine when prepping it for prolonged & winter storage)

 

My engine jetted rather on the lean side versus most others and ridden recreationally (not constant wide open throttle)

un-burnt oil still accumulates in the power valve cavity and occasionally drips out the vent hose but,

I get no spooge or smoke whatsoever from the silencer tip or pipe's mating joints.

 

What I really like with Interceptor is that there are never any hard deposits to scrape off exhaust valves and port,

excess oil has always remained in liquid form and easily wipes or sprays off with parts cleaner, with nothing 'baked on'.

Edited by mlatour
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I read somewhere that team Honda was using this oil in their factory 500cc GP roadracers. I rode my first 2000 YZ250

with stock jetting, (didn't know ant better then) and it ran much better at 32:1, 2R, than the previous 50:1 synthetic oil that I was using.

Never worried about a little spooge either.

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On 7/23/2017 at 7:20 PM, YZF1825 said:

Clean as hell burning oil. Rode for about 5 hours. Bike ran great, not very much smoke at all and no spooge. At first I was thinking the bike was running lean but there's just no way, shows no sympotoms of such. 32:1, I am sticking with this oil.

This has been my favorite oil for many years now. Cheap too! And that black drool coming out of the PV vent hose after riding is so minor - just means your powervalves are happy too! :)

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Hey guys so the bike had an FMF gnarly pipe and it's in decent condition with the exception it is bent ever-so-slightly enough to cause a 1/8 Gap at the bottom of where it the pipe seals to the cylinder so I bought a brand new gnarly pipe and it seals perfect only thing is I switched recently from Lucas to yamalube2r and I put 5 hours on the bike that next day and it did not smoke very much or spooge hardly at all at the end of 5 hours maybe a 1-inch drip from the end of the tailpipe so seems after putting the new pipe on which seals and the old one did not it seems to be running a hair richer or I could just not be used to Two Strokes. Where I rode 5 hours was on some technical stuff on the trails but it was open enough often enough to rev the bike and clear out the load from lugging it in first and goimg slow around the tight stuff, I ride out right next to my house but it's in an old school logging town so i have to really put it. Also have an Irridium plug I think, not sure it is the stock plug code but it seems to have a tiny diode and it was brand new. I heard rich running backs in iridium plugs don't get along so well the plug has less surface area where it's Park so foul ZZ ER last time I took it out it was black but when I'm running out in the trails and able to ride it faster when I get home pull the plug it's how should look like 10 and yes I understand that's not very good test but I do kill it at the end of the day wide open or close to so I can read the spark plug.

Anyways just wanted to ask can an FMF gnarly pipe make the bike run richer even though it had one on there but it was bent and it did not seal I did notice better power as soon as I put the new one on but like I said have only been able to ride in a small area I'm probably fouling the plug or just loading it up too much because it is black and almost kind of wet when riding around my my house but I'm new the two strokes are it's been 20 years since I had one I just came from a RMZ 450 to my 01 YZ250. 

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...oh ya and if someone has an 01 yz250 or if the 01 gnarly pipe will fit other years you can have my take off if you just pay the shipping I'll send it to you, it just needs to be bent back and to be honest I would probs my screw that task up. And it's got quiet a bit as in a shit ton of carbon buildup inside the pipe someone wants it they can have it you have to pay shipping PM me.

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I can decipher 2 things from your latest posts:

-you should jet quite leaner on the pilot jet circuit

-lowering the fuel/float level to the minimum end of the adjustment range

will both help greatly in avoiding fouling and spooge for your slow trail riding

Edited by mlatour
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On 7/23/2017 at 7:20 PM, YZF1825 said:

Clean as hell burning oil. Rode for about 5 hours. Bike ran great, not very much smoke at all and no spooge. At first I was thinking the bike was running lean but there's just no way, shows no sympotoms of such. 32:1, I am sticking with this oil.

No way you'll know unless you pull the plug. Use a plug color chart to compare.

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Yamalube 2R is probably the best oil I've used and I've used Koltz r50, klotz ST, Bell Ray motul 800 and out of all these oils I used in my 125 I used yamalube a lot and never had a problem with it I ran klotz ST in the 125 and it had quite a bit of spooge even as hard as I was on it (sand trails 5th gear wide open) and I ran out of gas and had some yamalube and I put that inside the bike same mix ratio and it felt like it could actually breath and perform better I got a 95 cr250 a few months back and used klotz r50/ST and when I used ST the skirt broke with it mixed at 30:1 gonna switch back to yamalube for now with it but every now and then I'll use klotz for the smell 😝😝

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This thread is full of premix lots of spooging over 2r going on guess that's why they call it yamalube lol. I find it hilarious that you guys are afraid to take your power valve apart. I also take mine apart and clean it each top end. 

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On 7/23/2017 at 6:05 PM, 2 STROKE YZ DOC said:

There is a seal on the shaft that goes through to the PV cavity. That seal an/or the head will wear. A new seal usually cures the problem but the head can get worn needing a bushing also. Seal is easier to replace when the top end is being redone as the power valve cavity screws are hard to get to with the frame in the way. 

Get to it when you do the top end or at least in 20-30 hours. 

How many seals?:p

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3 hours ago, GCannon said:

How many seals?:p

I never blew a seal, I prefer Penguins. 

I don't even remember this thread. Guess I'll have to read it.

 

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There is a seal on the shaft that goes through to the PV cavity. That seal an/or the head will wear. A new seal usually cures the problem but the head can get worn needing a bushing also. Seal is easier to replace when the top end is being redone as the power valve cavity screws are hard to get to with the frame in the way. 
Get to it when you do the top end or at least in 20-30 hours. 


Doc are you proposing top ends at 20-30 hours?

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13 hours ago, Dyllon Decker said:

Yamalube 2R is probably the best oil I've used and I've used Koltz r50, klotz ST, Bell Ray motul 800 and out of all these oils I used in my 125 I used yamalube a lot and never had a problem with it I ran klotz ST in the 125 and it had quite a bit of spooge even as hard as I was on it (sand trails 5th gear wide open) and I ran out of gas and had some yamalube and I put that inside the bike same mix ratio and it felt like it could actually breath and perform better I got a 95 cr250 a few months back and used klotz r50/ST and when I used ST the skirt broke with it mixed at 30:1 gonna switch back to yamalube for now with it but every now and then I'll use klotz for the smell 😝😝

The skirt didn't break because of the oil.

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