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Clutch not engaging after full rebuild

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1991 Cr250 I did not build this engine. My fiend did who is an excellent mechanic but everyone makes mistakes. Full rebuild bottom and top end. Bike cranks and idles, runs wonderful for break in on second kick after install. I have absolutely no clutch friction or resistance. Engine sat for a year filled with oil. I drained oil and put correct amount in.  I assumed there was a ball on the end of pushrod. Checked manual and there isn't for this year. People say that the clutch plates could stick from sitting so long, but wouldn't I feel some resistance on the cable. Put a brand new cable on today. The lever it's hooked up to has no resistant I can lift up the the case and down easilyIMG_3902.JPG.5858f83c811fcaff3dba5dbf408ab845.JPG

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Confirm your engine has all the required parts as per this list: 

http://www.partspitstop.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c08aff870023420a2cc43/clutch

plus the right number of friction and metal clutch plates (installed in the right order)

 

Confirm part #6, the lifter lever isn't worn out: http://www.partspitstop.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c08aff870023420a2cc45/crankcase

 

On your second pic, for some reason both the rear brake pedal and kick start lever look like they're taken off another bike/model?

Edited by mlatour

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12 hours ago, mlatour said:

Confirm your engine has all the required parts as per this list: 

http://www.partspitstop.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c08aff870023420a2cc43/clutch

plus the right number of friction and metal clutch plates (installed in the right order)

 

Confirm part #6, the lifter lever isn't worn out: http://www.partspitstop.com/oemparts/a/hon/506c08aff870023420a2cc45/crankcase

 

On your second pic, for some reason both the rear brake pedal and kick start lever look like they're taken off another bike/model?

I believe the kickstart lever for sure, he believed it came off his newer cr250, very well could be the same for the brake lever. I need to put the pegs back on. Do you know off hand if the lifter lever is supposed to have a spring on it on the stator side? I do not have me manual with me at my office. That would make it retract back. But still confused as to why clutch isnt engaging. I am going to put chain and sprocket on today. Them try to work the gears. I had a four wheeler that if it sat for a while the clutch would do the same thing but it would eventually come back. If that doesnt work I am digging in to a brand new engine which I shouldnt be doing and I will be inspecting clutch plates, push rod and any washers that may be missing. The clutch release on these bikes is very minute and a thin washer can change the game for the good or bad. Thanks for help.

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Well the parts diagram doesn't show a spring on the lever (stator side)

so it probably relies on the hub's 6 clutch springs and motion from the push rod to return back.

Edited by mlatour

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46 minutes ago, mlatour said:

Well the parts diagram doesn't show a spring on the lever (stator side)

so it probably relies on the hub's 6 clutch springs and motion from the push rod to return back.

kind of what I assumed, I am pretty confident there just it too much of a gap in the rod to clutch play not enough to engage it. Hopefully an easy fix just finding the part will probably be the problem.

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So removed pushrod assembly, and all was there. That was a small dot inside of the clutch plate lifter that resembled that of a BB or steal bearing wearing into it. Although the manual says no bearing for this clutch assembly, I'm 99% confident it will fix it. Kinda stuck here 

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1 hour ago, berardini2121 said:

So removed pushrod assembly, and all was there. That was a small dot inside of the clutch plate lifter that resembled that of a BB or steal bearing wearing into it. Although the manual says no bearing for this clutch assembly, I'm 99% confident it will fix it. Kinda stuck here 

Also, there was 8 clutch friction plates, manual says 8 after 1989 so that's right but then the problem is the pressure plate is too far to engage from push rod. If I remove clutch friction plate and disc, the friction plate makes contact with pushrod and opens and closes like it should. The problem with on less friction plate all of the friction plates have play and are not tight against pressure plate. So the center plate needs to come forward if I only use 7 plates or the push rod needs to be longer if I use the 8 plates. The steel bearing would give the pushrod the distance it needs win 8 plates, but I also thing that there is a thrust washer behind the center plate number 17 on the diagram. I didn't remove the plate to see but if it's not there then if it's installed it will bring the friction plates tighter and it will work with 7. Hope this makes sense to someone who can give me some solid advice thanks in advance 

Edited by berardini2121

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