Think I need a switch?

[PaydayGabe]

I just completed the DC conversion on my 4r. This is the diagram and the exact components used.

Plus a dedicated harness w/relay for the new LED lightbar.

I have an active relay w/power to the supplied on/off switch(12v from batt) to the lamp output connections.

This is great I think [emoji4].

Here's the issue?

Unless I disconnect the negative battery wire, I have constant power to the on/off switch. All the time.

This machine has no switched power supply like on your typical streetbike.

So I think I need a switch to disconnect the battery neg. from the harness(simple toggle). Does this make sense? If not, please enlighten me[emoji108]?. Thanks, G.

[vicxr400]

sounds about right. at the least it cant hurt as long as the switch is of high enough wattage.

nice dc kit whered you get that from??

[PaydayGabe]

Thanks Vic, everything came from Amazon.  

 Trail Tech #7004-RR150 reg/rec.  

 Trail Tech #040-batt3.7.   3700mAh 12v battery pk.         

Mic Tuning #MIC-B1001 harness.

PowLab 7" LED light bar 60w combo: drl/flood/spot,  ,   if the damn thing ever gets here I'll finish this project off.

What wattage switch should I be looking for?        Cheers,  G.??

[vicxr400]

sorry my mistake I meant amps..  what amp is the fuse. if you go by the fuse you want your switch a slightly higher amp rating so the fuse blows before the switch and wires.

[PaydayGabe]

The inline fuse is a 10amp blade type. So I should look for something in the 12- 15amp range? [emoji106][emoji107]

[vicxr400]

yehh sounds good   fairly common switch should be cheap enough. try to get a water proof one if you can might save on any head aches down the track.. solder and shrink wrap is good piece of mind.

[PaydayGabe]

Was just reading about niCad battery life over on AdvRider. One of the electric wizards(XRider) mentioned that NiCad batteries fail due to not being allowed to completely discharge before the first full recharge.
Reasoning, , these batteries develop a memory over many recharging cycles. Which leads to them depleting quicker over time. Eventually becoming useless. I hope I explained this properly. I got his meaning. Remember those old Makita cordless drills. The batteries always failed early if not allowed to completely discharge . Same principles.
So once I get the new LED lamp I'll plug it up and give that niCad battery a good dump. Then start fresh. ?. Lol, , checked the tracking on the Led lamp . It was delivered yesterday afternoon
[emoji34][emoji108]. Nuts! !

[vicxr400]

yehh NiCad  batterys will do that. but you can cycle them. when you get it fully flat stick the battery in the fridge/freezer 15/30 mins the cold will flatten the battery even more then remove from fridge and fully charge and repeat 3-4 times.

what you want is nickel metal hydride  not so prone to memory. 

[ThumperCurtis]

You definitely need a switch. I have a 4 wire on mine and use only the two to mimic the grounding of the kill button when I turn the key off.   

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-Motorcycle-Ignition-Switch-Key-4-Wire-For-Honda-Yamaha-Kawasaki-Suzuki/201587446513?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

 

[mikerbike]

Suggestion: Flip the trail tech instructions and do what it says on ththe other side. The red/yellow wire will give 12+ power only when the engine is running and 3-20 seconds after, depending on how you set the relay. The black and red will still charge the battery. 

http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/regrec/010-ELV-116.pdf

[KevinsXR]

OK, lets see how ling I take to confuse or insult everyone. When you make an XR use DC power, you need to install a switch so the battery doesn't run down because there is no on off key. There are many ways to do this but I always suggest using a good aftermarket handlebar switch and wire it like you are going to make the bike street legal. In other words, run a few different hot sources from a single switched fused hot source from the regulator rectifire. Run one to the lighting circuit in which you have to use a relay off of a thicker bigger gauge wire that is a constant hot. Run a fused hot as well to a flasher relay circuit. And run another hot to the circuit that runs your tail light, and brakelight. And get rid of the NiCad battery and go to a battery store and get about a 10AH gel cell. I have been using a 14ah gel cell on my 2001 XR400R for four years with no problems. ANd I run blinkers, huge horns, headlight, a set of high output LEDs, a digital dash, I also suggest the switch be run with a key. A hidden key......

[mikerbike]

 

15 hours ago, KevinsXR said:

When you make an XR use DC power, you need to install a switch so the battery doesn't run down because there is no on off key. 

 

22 hours ago, mikerbike said:

The red/yellow wire will give 12+ power only when the engine is running and 3-20 seconds after, depending on how you set the relay. The black and red will still charge the battery. 

http://gallery.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/regrec/010-ELV-116.pdf

 

[PaydayGabe]

Thanks Kevin, , I've never been offended by constructive criticism[emoji108]. And I'm pretty much always confused about electric issues[emoji106]?. Thank you.
I believe I figured I needed an on/off switch earlier, hence the title of the thread!?
Correct, I don't want to discharge the battery or remove the seat to plug/unplug the negative cable for every ride. Hmmm, I think I need a switch? Yup! My intention is to run basic LED Lighting and keep the system as simple as possible.
I also understand your point of view of having everything pre-wired in place just in case[emoji106]. That makes sense. I'm virtually there in my attempt to complete this - minus some small details.
1) What type of simple switch to use and where to mount(hidden).
2) Take Mikerbike's suggestion and use the red/yellow RR wire to the battery. And,
3) What to do w/these 2 remaining wires from the bikes harness(white/yellow and green) from the stator via the 4 pin connector?

Thanks for listening/reading.
Suggestions welcome at this time. [emoji106][emoji41], G.

[KevinsXR]

My rectifier regulator has only the voltage adjustment pit, not the delay pot. Where I live, there is a gray area in the law that says a street legal bike has to be able to have the lights on for 10 minutes even if the engine isn't running. I am sure they don't either know this or care but I am in compliance by the way I wired my XR. I also like to able to run the lights at night to push the bike around too. Since there are many ways to wire a XR for street use, or dirt use I usually don't even get involved in these conversations. It's almost like the age old question "what ammo is best for my new AR15.".

[PaydayGabe]

Righty O Kevin. And what oil do you recommend?
And while you have your thinking cap on, what's the best tire for my riding style? Lol?[emoji111].

Well, I made a command decision. Keep my system simple as possible.
I took Mikerbike's suggestion and used the red/yellow wire to power the lamp, which in turn requires no auxiliary switch [emoji106][emoji26]. Lamp is operational only with engine running.
So tomorrow is the test?
Will it run properly?
Will the lights work and not burn the bike down?
Stay tuned for more fun and games ?[emoji32]?.

[mikerbike]

Red/yelllow doesn't go to the battery. It supplies positive battery power when the engine is running, and goes cold when the engine is off. It's an automatic switch, and you already have it installed on your bike.

Black and red still charge the battery. 

I have heard of the grey area of which Kevin speaks. I suppose that depends on the fella inspecting the bike for street use. 

[PaydayGabe]

Yes sir. Red/pos. Blk/neg. Red/yellow to fused red to relay/Lamp.
Everything works[emoji108]. And no fires[emoji621]. Yea!