Jump to content

XR200R dies when leaned left.

Recommended Posts

Hey y'all been a while since I've been on here regarding my Frankenhonda. I recently rebuilt the motor ('99) and ran fine. My primary bike is a KTM380 so the XR sat for a bit. Recently i knocked the dust off the XR and rode her again but it would die if leaned left sitting on the kickstand. It will idle all day long on the stand or leaned right but as soon as it lists left she'll die. Carb has been thoroughly cleaned and i went so far as to rebuild the carb and replace jets, needle etc... It has stock (38/110) jetting and air screw 1-7/8 turns out and float is set at 1/2" or 12.5mm. Really strange.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

NaCltK9,

I am going to throw out an educated guess, that you have incorrect wire/cable routing to the point that some wire is stressed enough to ground out

from the kill switch when turning left. You would need to disconnect the kill switch on the handle bars, or underneath the fuel tank to test this theory. 

You could also have exposed kill switch wires vs. cable routing issues again, when turning left will just cut the motor out due to grounding out, just as if you

had pushed in the kill switch.  

Michael

 

 

Edited by KTM520EXC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's a logical thought Michael. I hadn't thought about a wiring issue, makes sense though. NaCltK9, when you put it on the kickstand, is it instant kill like hitting kill switch, or does it sputter for a bit then die like it's getting no fuel? If it's instant, Michael's probably right. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/4/2017 at 6:05 AM, NaCltK9 said:

Hey y'all been a while since I've been on here regarding my Frankenhonda. I recently rebuilt the motor ('99) and ran fine. My primary bike is a KTM380 so the XR sat for a bit. Recently i knocked the dust off the XR and rode her again but it would die if leaned left sitting on the kickstand. It will idle all day long on the stand or leaned right but as soon as it lists left she'll die. Carb has been thoroughly cleaned and i went so far as to rebuild the carb and replace jets, needle etc... It has stock (38/110) jetting and air screw 1-7/8 turns out and float is set at 1/2" or 12.5mm. Really strange.

I agree with the others regarding electrical. In addition, you may want to check the stator output and continuity. However, you did state the carb has been rebuilt. Are you certain the float height is correct, and all of the jets are cleared?

Edited by HomerDodd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the replies. As far as it dying it isn't immediate; just sputters out like it's starved for fuel unless i give it some throttle. The jets are all new and oem sizes were included with the All Balls rebuild kit. I adjusted the float to 12.5mm and checked fuel level by using clear tubing and opening the drain to see where it sits. Fuel comes up to the lip of the float bowl just under the seam where the bowl and body meet. This is when it is level on a center stand. I believe i have eliminated possible electrical issues by disconnecting kill switch and separating those wires from each other and from routing and harness. One thing i did notice is that the little plastic splash guard did not fit snuggly around the main jet holder. Could that have come off and be interfering? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, NaCltK9 said:

Thanks for the replies. As far as it dying it isn't immediate; just sputters out like it's starved for fuel unless i give it some throttle. The jets are all new and oem sizes were included with the All Balls rebuild kit. I adjusted the float to 12.5mm and checked fuel level by using clear tubing and opening the drain to see where it sits. Fuel comes up to the lip of the float bowl just under the seam where the bowl and body meet. This is when it is level on a center stand. I believe i have eliminated possible electrical issues by disconnecting kill switch and separating those wires from each other and from routing and harness. One thing i did notice is that the little plastic splash guard did not fit snuggly around the main jet holder. Could that have come off and be interfering? 

 

When it starts to sputter give it a little choke and see how it responds..............

Also, what carb parts did you replace with parts from the All Balls carb kit...........?

Old School Al

Edited by Old School Al

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm thinking also that is may be a bad stator itself, or one of the wires coming from the stator. The stator usually has three yellow wires (one for each phase), but some smaller bikes only have two. There may be possibly two more wires for the pick up coil. Each stator wire should have continuity to each other, but NOT TO GROUND. A weak stator, or broken stator wire would cause it to sputter and lose power. Maybe why it is idling on the center stand, grab the stator harness and pull and shake it. If it starts to sputter, run rough or die, you found the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was perceving this was a "when I turn left" vs. when I put it the kick stand down, which of course is "leaning left".

Sounds fuel related and yes IMHO it is time to pull the carb back off and double check the splash guard installation.

I don't mean this is a bad way, but is pretty idiot proof, as there are guides on the carburetor body and splash guard

itself, off the top of my head, there are three lines, 2 close to each other, the other farther away and it should line up

relatively easy. You know you have it right when the overflow metal tube slides in place like a glove through the splash

guard small opening.

 

I believe when you lean it left w/ problems vs. right w/o problems, you have eliminated fuel delivery from the petcock, or

any obstruction up to the carburetor, due the petcock being on the left side. I also believe that the float, or the height is

not the problem, because if you leaned right, you should have the same problem. 

 

Given the data you given us, throwing out the possibilty that the splash guard is floating in the bottom of the carburetor and

is obstructing the slow jet, other than that, I am stumped. I think it is highly unlikely the stator is the problem, although they

are prone to fail from time to time and can be very hard to diagnose. if you go in the direction of dissassembling the carburetor

I would resoak the slow/pilot jet again in Berryman's carburetor cleaner, or acetone for 30 minutes.

 

Here is a link to one of Chuck's old posts on the PD97 Keihin carburetor, you can get a rough idea on how the splash guard mounts

on the carburetor. http://www.socalxrs.com/carb_problems.html

 

Michael 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, Old School Al said:

 

When it starts to sputter give it a little choke and see how it responds..............

Also, what carb parts did you replace with parts from the All Balls carb kit...........?

Old School Al

 

.....................................???;)

 

Old School Al

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

All good info here. Check and double check is. Not certain if the  bike an electric start? If so, could it be the sidestand cut-off switch?

 

Edited by HomerDodd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 8/9/2017 at 10:31 AM, Old School Al said:

 

.....................................???;)

 

Old School Al

I did notice something that was overlooked previously. The All Balls rebuild kit is for 1998-2002. The carb on there is from an '87 (Keihin PD97a). Would that have anything to do with it although all jets, needles, etc look the same (110 & 38)? Also, when given half choke leaned on left side it sputters out. 

KTM520EXC- when i reassembled the carb the splash guard can only go on one way and has the indentation/slot for the over flow tube preventing idiots like me from doing anything goofy - in theory. I also held the carb upside down when reassembling. Since it fits real loosely on the jet holder I'm wondering if there's a possibility of it sliding off when the carb is right side up and allowed to float around and interfere with the bowl.

Everything about this is strange because once i get underway it runs like a champ.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i am speculating that OSA may have some experience with this particular kit, as he specifically asked if it was the "All Balls" kit. 

Other than the California spec carbs which have different jetting, I would think the kit is universal from 86-02, but again 

speculating that OSA will chime in with something interesting. The #38 Slow Jet & #110 main are correct. 

Michael 

 

Edited by KTM520EXC

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

NaCltK9, 

I came up with the simplest solution!

Since it runs and idles upright just fine, and it runs like a champ once you get under way, just don't start it until you're ready to ride :ride:

Ooooooor, mount the kickstand on the right side of the bike, then you can start it and walk away as it warms up 😆:goofy:

Sorry, I had to. Lol

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On a serious note, 

Does it only die while leaning left at idle? Like, if you're hauling ass down the trail along a long lefthanded turn that has you leaning the bike pretty hard to the left, it stays running strong? 

Also, if you start it and put it on the kickstand, and it peters out, will it start right back up with no problems? Or does it take some work to get started again? 

Thought I'd ask, seem like a couple thoughts that haven't come up yet

Daniel

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, Daniel627 said:

On a serious note, 

Does it only die while leaning left at idle? Like, if you're hauling ass down the trail along a long lefthanded turn that has you leaning the bike pretty hard to the left, it stays running strong? 

Also, if you start it and put it on the kickstand, and it peters out, will it start right back up with no problems? Or does it take some work to get started again? 

Thought I'd ask, seem like a couple thoughts that haven't come up yet

Daniel

After it sputters out on the kickstand It takes a few kicks to get it going but not hard starting by any means. While riding some technical singletrack the other day i did notice that when off the throttle, clutch in, coasting downhill through some sections it will want to die. When I'm on the gas everything is fine. I've been wanting to fiddle with the float height but that issue was eliminated in one of the previous replies. If i crank the idle screw in alot it will idle on the stand but i feel that isn't solving the problem.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How many revolutions are you out on the fuel screw, s/b ~ 1.5 to 2.0 ?

When I tune a carburetor, I turn out the idle screw as far as I can, to point it can barely run.

Then I try to richen it up by turning the screw outwards or counter clockwise, if the idle increased, then I know it was to lean

I try to find that sweet spot, where I wick the throttle and comes back to an idle almost immediately, no run on.

If I turn the fuel screw out and it does not increase the rpm's, then I turn it in clockwise to lean it out to see that increases

the rpm's, if it does, again, I wick the throttle to find that sweet spot where there is no run on and comes back to stable

idle, almost immediately. 

 

The reason I mention this is, maybe, just maybe, your idle circuit is starving for fuel and that is the problem, dunno. 

 

Michael 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Not sure how many are still interested in this topicbut i figured out what the problem was and it wasn't a fuel/carb issue after all. The washer that held the spark advance assembly on was too small and allowed it to wander away from the pickup coil when leaned left. Found a different washer in the parts bin and no issues now. Previously i had even had some get offs and the bike landed on left side and died. Then wouldn't start after that. Pulling the ignition cover off revealed that the rotor spun 180°. The new washer fixed this issue as well since there was so much lateral movement that the rotor could and would pull away from the key way and spin. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×