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Going to change power valve seal this weekend

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If i remove the radiators can I do this job? What is the least time consuming way?

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The aluminum framed bikes are not a big deal to remove the radiators, disconnect everything from the control rod and slide it out. Change the seal and slide it all back together. I'm not sure on the steel frame bikes.

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Needle nose remove them easily then replace with hex or Alan if you don't like the marks left by needle nose.

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Okay I'm getting ready to start this project in about 30 minutes I'm curious how long it will take what's the best approach remove front fender and radiators or take out the motor how long of a job do you think this is

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No need to remove front fender. Two hours would be comfortable.

Remove seat

Remove tank/shrouds

Remove expansion chamber only

Drain coolant

Remove radiators

Remove linkage cover

Remove linkage USING DOWEL

Remove power valve cover (using needle nose)

Remove three Allen screws

Rotate and slide shaft out

Clean everything up

Replace seal (grease lip)

Slide everything back together EXACTLY as it came apart

If it any point it's too tight for big hands or whatever it's easy to remove the cylinder at that point

 

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Okay...holy shit...so I just got done doing it the way the previous poster just posted. I had a hard time getting the top and bottom philips screws but I got the with careful use of channel locks (very careful). So I pulled the cover and HOLY SHIT I am glad I chose to do this today. So the 2 philps screws and the washers for them were completely out and sitting at the bottom of the power valve case on top of the shaft, then there are 2 allen heads that hold (I dont know the names/part numbers) the part that holds the shaft like a "C" and one was snapped off and boy was I pissed any way I calmed down disassembled which was a piece of cake and pulled the shaft. The shaft hole at the bottom does have a little tiny burr you can barely see from the shaft wollowing it out because there was no 'effin seal to begin with so I installed the new seal and put everything back together and put those damn screws where they go. It no longer leaks for now but when I do my top end I am buying a new cylinder PERIOD. Anyways I fired it up first kick and wow....waaaay less noise from that area and it seems to be a little more responsive. Now I understand the power valve 100%. It really doesn't move or rotate more than 45 degrees if that. Anyways, guys, thanks for the help. Now since I have all this time effort and money into this thing I want some advice on a bottom end rebuild kit with all the bearings and seals and what not. I will go with a Wiseco piston for sure with the new cylinder. So since I am doing this, when the time comes I am either going to buy a new frame or fix the one issue that is wrong with it.

 

So the bottom brackets where the bottom of the sub frame bolts to, left and right, those are slightly bent to the left, you cant see it or feel it while sitting on the seet but I just dont like my stuff like that so what would be the best way to bend those back or should I just buy a new main frame? This bike will eventually be a full build. Thanks.

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Good job, wait till next time you ride it! You should feel a big difference in power! can't believe the Allen's were out and there was no seal ha ha. No wonder

 

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1 hour ago, YZF1825 said:

Okay...holy shit...so I just got done doing it the way the previous poster just posted. I had a hard time getting the top and bottom philips screws but I got the with careful use of channel locks (very careful). So I pulled the cover and HOLY SHIT I am glad I chose to do this today. So the 2 philps screws and the washers for them were completely out and sitting at the bottom of the power valve case on top of the shaft, then there are 2 allen heads that hold (I dont know the names/part numbers) the part that holds the shaft like a "C" and one was snapped off and boy was I pissed any way I calmed down disassembled which was a piece of cake and pulled the shaft. The shaft hole at the bottom does have a little tiny burr you can barely see from the shaft wollowing it out because there was no 'effin seal to begin with so I installed the new seal and put everything back together and put those damn screws where they go. It no longer leaks for now but when I do my top end I am buying a new cylinder PERIOD. Anyways I fired it up first kick and wow....waaaay less noise from that area and it seems to be a little more responsive. Now I understand the power valve 100%. It really doesn't move or rotate more than 45 degrees if that. Anyways, guys, thanks for the help. Now since I have all this time effort and money into this thing I want some advice on a bottom end rebuild kit with all the bearings and seals and what not. I will go with a Wiseco piston for sure with the new cylinder. So since I am doing this, when the time comes I am either going to buy a new frame or fix the one issue that is wrong with it.

 

So the bottom brackets where the bottom of the sub frame bolts to, left and right, those are slightly bent to the left, you cant see it or feel it while sitting on the seet but I just dont like my stuff like that so what would be the best way to bend those back or should I just buy a new main frame? This bike will eventually be a full build. Thanks.

Bend them back straight when you get around to it. 

3 minutes ago, Kinger317 said:

Good job, wait till next time you ride it! You should feel a big difference in power! can't believe the Allen's were out and there was no seal ha ha. No wonder

 

The case of: NEVER TRUST THE GUY YOU BOUGHT IT OFF, unless he is a reputable builder/owner. 

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No the Allen's the Phillips screws the 2 at the top and their washers were sitting in the bottom...crazy.

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28 minutes ago, YZF1825 said:

No the Allen's the Phillips screws the 2 at the top and their washers were sitting in the bottom...crazy.

Blue locktite is required for those screws in the PV cavity.

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Ahh shit..i tightened the hell out of em. Guess I gotta do it again..

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2 minutes ago, YZF1825 said:

Ahh shit..i tightened the hell out of em. Guess I gotta do it again..

Not if you will be doing a top end soon anyway.

You'll know when they fall out again. Same sound.

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On 8/4/2017 at 7:02 PM, P84ONE said:

Bend them back straight when you get around to it. 

The case of: NEVER TRUST THE GUY YOU BOUGHT IT OFF, unless he is a reputable builder/owner. 

Yep. Previous owner straight didn't give 2 shits about anything on wheels, I do so now it looks like this. Runs the way it looks too. I love it.

20170805_113427.jpg

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Could I take the old power valve cover screws and match them to be all Allen screws? It would make it easier to access without pulling the cylinder.

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Would you guys keep this bike and finish the few little things needing to be done such as add Allen head screws on power valve cover or sell it and buy a brand new one? I have it for sale on CL right now..

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In my opinion that bike is very ugly and would take some work to fix. More importantly I have a strong suspicion there is a lot more mechanical neglect inside that poor bike. Usually the case when they look like that. Neglect is almost a sure thing for a bike with black plastic. So I'd sell it and start again, or get a new one if you cannot find a good deal or you're Captain Cash.

BTW: About those bolts in the PV ... like just about every bolt on the bike that you don't want rattling out, how tight you do it up doesn't help much. The proper fix is clean threads and a drop of blue loctite. Then you don't have to over tighten and risk stripping threads. Plus it also prevents corrosion and reduces metal galling (thread wear) on bolts that you need to reinstall often, like the bolts on the seat, fuel tank or whatever.

Also once that PV shaft side seal dies, a new one will probably die an early death anyway. Because the thin alum wall wears oval where the shaft turns on it. So the seal dies and also the PV linkage gets a lot of lag (play) in it.  It is perhaps the biggest design flaw on an otherwise well sort out bike. The permanent/real fix is to machine up and press a bass bush into the alum wall.

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