KX85 Shift shaft replaced, not running right

Good afternoon.  I hoping someone can assist me.  I not super mechanical but have the proper service manuals.  Yesterday my son and i changed the shift shaft assembly and seal.  Was happy that we were able to get it torn apart and changed without anything to challenging, followed the Clymers manual it was good.  Filled the oil back up and put the coolant in.  

Now this KIPS thing is new to me, so i had just removed the eclip and put it and the cover aside.  During reassembly we had a challenge getting the cover and gears all lined up but eventually it seemed to slide right into place.  

Today we fired it up, sounds a little noisy, I concerned as I the mechanic :)  took it for a quick spin and I would say its not right, I suspect the power valve is not perfectly aligned.  I check the dot and the line on it and its night lined up.

the question is is it the gear behind the cover that i need to take it apart again or can it be fixed from the KPS cover etc.  Sorry can get pictures if needed this KX stuff is all new to me.

Thanks father mechanic, with disappointed son.

Edited by bloodylizard

If you lift the rubber boot, you can remove the small screw. This will allow you to lift the arm up, turn it to the correct position to line up the marks and drop it back down.

Edited by 351mustanger

Thanks, I wil give that a shot later today. I wondered what the screw was for.

Ok I loosened the screw and lined it up, does this all look ok to you guys. going to get my son to come out and fire her up and see.

 

 

IMG_1851.jpg

IMG_1852.jpg

I started it and warmed it and reved it it seems to be hitting the top as it moves.  Also how far is the actuator suppose to go?

also found out if you tighten screw down to much the thing will not move at all :)

 

Any one have any pictures of what is should look like, is it possible when I removed the side cover that it unwound a rotation.

 

IMG_1852.JPG

Edited by bloodylizard
save to soon

The alignment of the marks looks fine. If you tighten the bolt and it stops the arm from moving, you either have the arm pushed too far down in to the case or lifted too far up out of the case. The arm has a groove in it that the tip of the bolt is supposed to rest in. The end of that bolt should have the tip milled down. If it doesn't, it is the wrong bolt.

Thanks, there appears to be other issues now that I got this looking better.  It will not shift at all.  Going to pull it all off again and double check my work.  Not sure what part of the manual I followed I might have screwed up.  

 

First time ever tearing into a dirt bike like this.  I will keep you posted.

You have to make sure the collared washer on the back side of the shift shaft is set in the proper place. It's sort of a pain. If it's not in the right place it won't let the actuator grab the star and shift the bike. Once you get it in place you will see what I mean. Check the back of the clutch basket to make sure it didn't damage it when you ran the bike. That is probably the noise you heard.

The power valve actuator has to be in the right place if you were able to get the circlip on

Sent from my SM-G900V using ThumperTalk mobile app

Okay so it appears that the engine and the transmission are not communicating, bike starts and idles good.  Clutch appears to be working pull it in can feel the engagement.  shifter seems to shift transmission.  But no transfer of power.  So something is not aligned from my shift assembly work.  I suspect the gear in the read area is not install correctly.

 

Any thoughts?

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The collared washer, mentioned above is in the wrong place. It goes on the back side of the fork, around the pin. 

On 8/10/2017 at 0:59 PM, bloodylizard said:

 

 

Screenshot_20170811-174226.png

Edited by 351mustanger

The transfer of power happens through the clutch. If you are getting no power then you have the assembly wrong. Most likely a washer is in the wrong place or you have the clutch plates incorrectly stacked

Sent from my SM-G900V using ThumperTalk mobile app

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