Long story short I bought this 2011 WR300. The thing is mint, looks brand spanking new. The thing ran like a top, but only had one problem, a low idle. I was to lazy to fix it and just dealt with the fact that I always needed to keep a little bit on the throttle. My third ride on it, I took it to the florence dunes and the top end burnt up. I have just finished fixing it and all I need to do is break it in. I need to adjust the idle first though, and don't know if I'll have the idle too high until it starts. I don't want to hurt the motor on a fresh rebuild and want some opinions on what to do. Do you think it will be fine? How many turns out should I set the carb just to be safe?
Any response helps
Hey, guys I recently bought a 2007 KTM 250f. The bike can be bump started easily and runs fine as long as I keep it revved up a little bit. But, unfortunately right when I stop revving the bike it dies within 0-3 seconds no matter how warm the bike is. Aswell I have not been able to successfully kickstart the bike I always have to bump start it (this could be because the choke is not working properly. Although, I doubt that because I still can not kick start it even when its warm.)
Any tips, tricks, or ideas on fixing these problems would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Hello! I know that this is posted in the XR600/650 section, but there was no 500 section. I am the proud owner of a 1983 XR500R, equipped with dual, progressive linkage carburetors and I'm having some very frustrating and confusing problems. Firstly, the idle speed changes when blipping the throttle. I will blip it and the idle speed will either decrease or increase each time it is blipped, sometimes going very high, mid, or going back to idling at a normal speed. As you can imagine this makes the bike very difficult to drive, as unless i blip the throttle multiple times to get it to idle right, the bike will carry on in 1st gear at around 15-20 mph without even touching the handlebars, meaning engine braking is nonexistent at low rpm. The throttle doesn't seem to be sticking, and the butterfly mounts for the cables are solid. Secondly, I am having issues with the floats. I tried setting them at first to factory spec (20 mm) at the highest (or lowest when installed) part of the floats and it poured fuel from the overflow tubes. I then set it at 20 mm at the back of the floats on the flat portion and it doesn't leak when running but will with the bike off. If i set them any higher it closes the needles all the time. I have replaced the float needles. When i got the bike the carburetor bodies were damaged, so I got a pair from a 1985 XR600R off eBay and didn't have either of these problems at the time. The bike then started suddenly pouring fuel from the overflow tubes a few weeks after I got them and it sat for about 4 months. After taking it out of the shed finally and cleaning the carbs real good and replacing the float needles, as well as messing with the float height it had the idling problem from the moment I started it up. Ive messed with the ratio screw and idle screw and nothing seems to be working. The jetting is 45 pilot, 100 primary on left carb and 128 on right carb, and I reside at about 5000 feet above sea level. The primarys are chewed up, looking as though somebody took some vice grips to them, but I don't see why that would affect the idle, and the bike runs very nicely otherwise. Thank you for your time, and any insight would be greatly appreciated, as I'm beginning to get very frustrated with the old girl.
Picked up a 2003 KLX400R a few months ago and since then I've been having some issue with my idle. At first, the idle seemed way too high so I turned it down and the bike would barely stay running, so I turned it up again. After doing that, the bike would hang revs and would take a few seconds to return to idle. I took the carb apart, and replaced the vacuum plate seal (since this has the FCR39 and heard that the seal could be warped due to carb cleaner). After doing that I was still having the same issue: the bike would still die on idle, regardless of how high or low the idle is set. Here is my question: what should I do to fix it? Is it possible that the idle air screw is set incorrectly? I set it to the 2.5 turns out that I've been seeing online, but that seems like it's either way too much or way too little air. The bike has the stock exhaust, and the 3x3 mod has NOT been done to it.
Hey all, I have run into an issue with my mikuni carburetor off of a 2001 DRZ 400. It was running rough (wouldn't idle with Choke or otherwise) after I left the bike sitting for about two months without draining the float bowl. I cleaned out the carb and the pilot jet was clogged. I cleared out the remaining jets and loosened the fuel screw to spray carb cleaner through the body. Being a complete novice, I forgot to write down the exact position of the fuel screw from closed. I reinstalled the carb and installed the fuel screw to what I thought was the original position and it runs super rich. It back fires multiple times every time I let off the throttle. The previous owner jetted the carb and left a hand written note with the following specs (see blurry picture )
I am running at sea level and the bike has a Yoshimura slip on. Anyone with a similar setup how many turns are you running on your fuel screw??? I have had the carb on and off several times trying to get it right but to with no luck. Thank you to anyone who can help me with my current predicament