Jump to content

Jd jet question

Recommended Posts

Hey guys so after installing the 45 pilot 175 main and blue needle 3rd clip my bike has ran a whole lot betta. Is 45 pilot lean for sea level?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

No that should be good. But you should be using the Red Needle for sea level. Unless you are in Alaska and it's below 40 degrees out.

 

I ride at 300ft above sea level and I have the 45 pilot 172 main because it's in the 80's here and humid and use the Red Needle in the 2'nd clip position.

 

As the Temps start to cool some

Say to the upper 70's and the Humidity drops some,That's when I go back up a size in main jet to a 175.

 

I don't never use the Blue needle cause I never ride below 40 degrees.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using ThumperTalk mobile app

 

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it runs good it is probably fine.  Just follow the directions for the steps for leaner or richer until in runs well.  I have never used one on a YZ, but it was a straight-forward process with other bikes.  You can also email or call JD himself.  He answers emails almost immediately.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, CaptainKnobby said:

No that should be good. But you should be using the Red Needle for sea level. Unless you are in Alaska and it's below 40 degrees out.

 

I ride at 300ft above sea level and I have the 45 pilot 172 main because it's in the 80's here and humid and use the Red Needle in the 2'nd clip position.

 

As the Temps start to cool some

Say to the upper 70's and the Humidity drops some,That's when I go back up a size in main jet to a 175.

 

I don't never use the Blue needle cause I never ride below 40 degrees.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using ThumperTalk mobile app

 

 

 

 

This is an inaccurate understanding of the blue and red needle. In 2 strokes the needles are used interchangeably and give you 10 levels of adjustment instead of 5. They go red blue red blue red blue etc etc. I live in New England and ride at sea level to 2000 feet and its been between 70-85 degrees and I'm running the blue needle, 2 clip from top with a 45 pilot and a 175 main. It runs amazing. I run my bikes a CH on the rich side. This bike has zero spooge and power for days. Just read the handout with the needles next time.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites



This is an inaccurate understanding of the blue and red needle. In 2 strokes the needles are used interchangeably and give you 10 levels of adjustment instead of 5. They go red blue red blue red blue etc etc. I live in New England and ride at sea level to 2000 feet and its been between 70-85 degrees and I'm running the blue needle, 2 clip from top with a 45 pilot and a 175 main. It runs amazing. I run my bikes a CH on the rich side. This bike has zero spooge and power for days. Just read the handout with the needles next time.

As he said^^^^^^***


The needles are made a 1/2 clip setting apart from each other. Alternate colours while testing to fine tune it or for weather/altitude changes.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks I really appreciate it. You know I have this bike up on Craigslist but I put so much work and effort into it I think I'm just going to keep it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The X is a really good bike. I thought about getting rid of my X. Buy a brand new shiny Beta, but i keep coming back to and asking "Do I need it?"  The KYB SSS suspension is superb out of the box, and when its sprung right its the best off the shelf setup you can get. If you can outride the KYB SSS and don't think its up to par, send it off to Factory Connection and have literally perfect suspension.

"It isn't the newest tech, it isn't the coolest looking, It doesn't have estart, it doesn't have a 6th gear"

Then I take it out on the trail, it does everything I need it too and has more power than I ever could use. E start would be nice, but its never any trouble to start. I don't ride open enough trails to need the 6th gear. I think the YZ, while a dated frame and body, still looks damn good parked in my garage.

There is a reason the only bikes at a hare scramble next to KTM's and a handful of Beta's are YZ250s and YZ250Xs. They are damn good two strokes and just as capable as any KTM, and 2 to 3 grand cheaper.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
15 hours ago, YZF1825 said:

Hey guys so after installing the 45 pilot 175 main and blue needle 3rd clip my bike has ran a whole lot betta. Is 45 pilot lean for sea level?

If you don't mind me asking, what came with your JD Jet Kit?

I know it comes with the blue & red needles. Probably 4 main jets (how many mains?). 

What about pilots? Did your kit have any pilot jets in it (if so, how many? sizes?).

 

I'm just curious. I was going to order a couple of mains, pilots and a Suzuki needle or two. But if the YZX jet kit comes with everything you need......

I have been generally pleased with the one I bought for my KTM (although it did not come with a pilot. They recommend the stock one).

 

Thanks in advance.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It came with 4 or 5 main and one pilot..a 45. 2 needles and a clip.

3 hours ago, dmrogers said:

If you don't mind me asking, what came with your JD Jet Kit?

I know it comes with the blue & red needles. Probably 4 main jets (how many mains?). 

What about pilots? Did your kit have any pilot jets in it (if so, how many? sizes?).

 

I'm just curious. I was going to order a couple of mains, pilots and a Suzuki needle or two. But if the YZX jet kit comes with everything you need......

I have been generally pleased with the one I bought for my KTM (although it did not come with a pilot. They recommend the stock one).

 

Thanks in advance.

I know that's how I feel about this bike.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay guys I need a little help here. I just took the bike out for a spin. Jetting is as follows, 175 main 45 pilot and blue needle 3rd clip. Ya I jetted it per the instructions for colder weather afraid to make it too lean but I feel like it lost power in the top, it idles great but I think is defiantly running rich. The old jets were a 180 a 50 and the stock needle on the leanest setting and the spark plug looked good. I pulled it after shutting her down at a high speed and the plug was black with black in the center of the electrode even. Where should I start, go to the red needle 3rd clip or 172 main or both? 172 45 3rd clip red needle is recommended jetting for sea level.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
28 minutes ago, YZF1825 said:

Okay guys I need a little help here. I just took the bike out for a spin. Jetting is as follows, 175 main 45 pilot and blue needle 3rd clip. Ya I jetted it per the instructions for colder weather afraid to make it too lean but I feel like it lost power in the top, it idles great but I think is defiantly running rich. The old jets were a 180 a 50 and the stock needle on the leanest setting and the spark plug looked good. I pulled it after shutting her down at a high speed and the plug was black with black in the center of the electrode even. Where should I start, go to the red needle 3rd clip or 172 main or both? 172 45 3rd clip red needle is recommended jetting for sea level.

Blue need second clip from top, this drops the needle down and leans it out a tad more than 3rd clip. This should help clear up your problem. The plug chop test has to be down with a hot motor, and a fresh plug. If you ride around for half a day, then do a plug chop you will get a false reading.

Warm motor up to operating/riding temp (hot to the touch)

Set air screw

install new plug, and confirm fresh filter, fresh fuel

Get on a piece of straight away, bang through gears and plug chop at 3/4 to WOT. You want a good couple seconds at WOT, if you dont feel its too lean, Id say a good 30. People say to coast, but I just WOT then pull the clutch and kill it. Then brake to a stop sensibly. Then check your plug. That will give you the best Main Jet reading.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That would be leaner than the red needle 3rd clip tho right?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay I just removed the blue and installed red 3rd clip but was only able to kick it over since it got dark..gonna have to wait till tomorrow.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I running the same jetting as NEGbrap in my 2016 Yamaha 250X.  I like the blue needle with the clip in the 2nd position,175 main, 45 pilot. Between 0 to 1000 ft elevation.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, YZF1825 said:

That would be leaner than the red needle 3rd clip tho right?

 

Yes, you want leaner than that red needle as you are describing a RICH condition.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yes, you want leaner than that red needle as you are describing a RICH condition.

I don't that's leaner. The Red Needle itself is leaner than the Blue needle.
So if he had it with the Blue Needle in 2nd clip,That's richer than Red Needle in 3rd clip.
As long as he is around 300ft elevation and running 170 main with a 45 pilot it will be fine with Red Needle in 2nd clip.
This does good all the way up to 1200ft elevation with Temps in the 70's on up.
Just remember though.....when the Temps cool down jet richer,like move up to a 172 main or 175.

Sent from my SM-G950U using ThumperTalk mobile app

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, CaptainKnobby said:


I don't that's leaner. The Red Needle itself is leaner than the Blue needle.
So if he had it with the Blue Needle in 2nd clip,That's richer than Red Needle in 3rd clip.
As long as he is around 300ft elevation and running 170 main with a 45 pilot it will be fine with Red Needle in 2nd clip.
This does good all the way up to 1200ft elevation with Temps in the 70's on up.
Just remember though.....when the Temps cool down jet richer,like move up to a 172 main or 175.

Sent from my SM-G950U using ThumperTalk mobile app
 

I don't have the JD chart in front of me, but that doesn't make sense. It goes leaner to richer from top clip (1) to bottom clip (5). The important part is FROM the top. 1 from top is first clip, 2 from top is second clip.

  • RED 2
  • BLUE 2
  • RED 3
  • BLUE 3
  • RED 4
  • BLUE 4

Red 3 can not be leaner than Red 2 or Blue 2, regardless of the taper the clip is a whole step up. With the tip of needle point down clip 2 is SECOND from the top. The farther the needle is in the main jet the leaner the circuit is. Regardless of all that, I literally am running the same setup in a stock YZ250X at the same temps and elevation. Sidenote - I tried the NECJ in the YZ and did not like it as much as the JD. Worse bottom end, but really good top end. More of a motocross/fast harescramble set up. Blue needle 2nd clip, 175 main and a 45 pilot runs awesome for trail/technical single track. I err on the side of rich too.

needle clip.gif

Edited by NEGbrap
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah your right. I was just saying the Blue needle is the richer needle that's for colder/Higher elevation Temps.
I never used my Blue one. I don't ride below 40 degrees anyways and all my riding is done below 3000ft elevation also.
With that said......All I use is my Red Needle and just raise the clip as the Temps get Hotter and more Humid, use bigger or smaller jets according to the elevation I will be riding.



Sent from my SM-G950U using ThumperTalk mobile app

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
39 minutes ago, CaptainKnobby said:

Yeah your right. I was just saying the Blue needle is the richer needle that's for colder/Higher elevation Temps.
I never used my Blue one. I don't ride below 40 degrees anyways and all my riding is done below 3000ft elevation also.
With that said......All I use is my Red Needle and just raise the clip as the Temps get Hotter and more Humid, use bigger or smaller jets according to the elevation I will be riding.



Sent from my SM-G950U using ThumperTalk mobile app
 

Eh actually that it isn't exactly 100% true. The first taper of the red is def leaner, but the needles really are designed to span the gap between each clip. Each is half a clip more if you go red blue red blue. So instead of having 5 clips worth of adjustment, you have 10. Does that make sense?

Edited by NEGbrap
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Yeah your right. I was just saying the Blue needle is the richer needle that's for colder/Higher elevation Temps.

I never used my Blue one. I don't ride below 40 degrees anyways and all my riding is done below 3000ft elevation also.

With that said......All I use is my Red Needle and just raise the clip as the Temps get Hotter and more Humid, use bigger or smaller jets according to the elevation I will be riding.

 

 

 

Sent from my SM-G950U using ThumperTalk mobile app

 

 

 

 

Negbrap, has described exactly what is on the instruction sheet.

 

The needles are the same but with a 1/2 clip difference Accross the entire needle.

 

I believe Captainknobby you are incorrect thinking the blue needle is only for cold weather. It provides a 1/2 step between the 2 red clip position.

 

IMG_8957.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


  • Similar Content

    • By Lone Danger
      Ok so I'm looking for opinions from those who have been on yz125s and 150 exc/xcw's and maybe the ktm 200's exc/xcw's. You gotta be out there.
      Here's the deal...I'm 5'7" 165lbs. A couple years back I was looking for a small bike for my wife to learn on and for me to play around with and race. Could only afford one bike. I got a '09 ktm 105 sx. Once I got it sprung for my weight it was great. I have been top five consistently in my local harescrambles B class, believe it or not. Ya, you were not the only ones shocked. And did pretty good in the local mx races as well, junior class up here in Canada. Lack of power was sometimes an issue but I learned to deal with it and just scream, scream, scream!
      However my wife is a complete beginner and she is scared of it. I have since moved her to a 4 stroke.
      Just got a mint '01 yz15 mid summer. Like less than 200 hrs! I have absolutely loved it on the mx track. Suspension is perfect and I love the extra power. I had planned to set it up for woods/mx with a suspension revalve. However, did a harescramble race a month ago that was really technical. Granted I have not done anything to the suspension minus clickers, had too much psi in the tires (13 front and 15 rear) (yes I know that's wonkey, I only had time to get a heavy duty tube in the front and had a stock tube in back. Less psi in the back would have been instant pinch flat because its so rocky) and it was running rich. I had to scream the thing to keep it running and even changed a plug mid race. Well I'm sure you can guess but it was the worst experience I have ever had on a motorcycle. The more open sections I passed a lot of people but the tech sections required way more effort than I liked and the suspension beat the hell out of me!!! Like my knees, wrists, and shoulders were just done. (I was out there for three hours).
      So keep in mind that I just came off a 105sx with suspension mods (set up for woods/mx). I have no problem slipping clutch and shifting precisely, yatta yatta. (I don't think the 105 would have done well here either due to even less power, however...) I've been second guessing fixing this 125 up for woods ever since I rode a friends '09 ktm 250xcw. I rode it on a local mx track. The power was just so effortless and I was absolutely floored by how the suspension worked. I never thought that I could hit the woops that hard and clear every jump on the track on an xcw and feel THAT good! It felt a lot heavier though, and I think the price tag on these things are going to be a stretch.
      So here's my question. I want the lightness of a 125, but want to be able to race both woods and mx. How does a 150 exc/xcw ENGINE compare to an mx 125 engine? I love the 125 engine, but more low end would be usefull in tech areas. But if there is not a huge difference, I will probably just revalve the yz for woods and go tubless, etc. The 150exc's are so expensive and I hardly ever even see one for sale unless its brand new. I don't want the weight of a 200/250/300. I barely touch the ground on a 125....so it has to at least be light. Is it worth waiting for a 150 engine? Thanks guys.
       
       
    • By doolan
      Hi guys I have a 2018 yz250 looking at changing springs front and rear I'm 200 pound ride b class moto.
      Having problems choosing spring weights using the calculators as mx tech say I need .45 fork springs and 5.2 rear but racetech say .48kg forks and 5.8kg rear.
      What are other bigger guys
    • By YamahaYz1
      Hey TT, I know there's endless topics on YZ250/ two stroke tuning in general but I have not been able to find one that helps me get my 09 YZ250 set up for my riding style and where I ride so I'm here asking for help. I got this bike around 1.5 years ago and have not known how to set it up properly. I know no one can give me a perfect set up but I'd like a good starting setup to work from and tweak to perfection. Throughout this time I've had this bike, its always been covering the bottom of the entire silencer and dripping all over the swing arm and rims with oil. Also, the joint between silencer and expansion pipe has oil around it too but I've heard I have to close the gap a little to squeeze the silencer a little tighter and stop the leakage there. I don't have too much experience messing with carbs but I've messed around with previous two strokes and tuned them a little better. I change the oil on my bike after 15-20 hours on it and clean and oil the air filter after almost every ride. The sparkplugs never last me more than a few months but recently have been lasting me no more than a few weeks. With the excess oil from the pipe and spark plug fouling you can see why I need to set my bike up to stop this. 
      The bike:
      Completely stock with V-Force 3 Reeds and a FMF Shorty silencer. 
      Usually running around 32:1 premix with 91 pump fuel because I prefer to keep it well lubricated instead of running rich.
      Riding:
      I ride enduro in Ontario, Canada. So mostly single track and some fire roads but nothing close to MX and not a lot of time wide open. Therefore, probably mostly 1/4-1/2 or 1/4-3/4 throttle range.
      Where I ride:
      Usually 0-500' above sea level. With temperatures ranging from around 15-35 degrees Celsius (55-95 Fahrenheit).
       
      If anyone can give me a setup to go from, that would be very much appreciated. Even multiple set ups for different temperature ranges or any suggestions would be much appreciated. Thanks and sorry for the long read, I just didn't want to leave anything out. Ask any questions if you have any, too.
    • By Goon Rides
      Hey guys... so I have a problem... I took the bike at Cal City, broke it in, and while I was doing so, the bike was bogging in first gear (Yes, first gear). Also it doesn't idle at all. I have to keep blipping it otherwise it'll stall. So I adjusted the screw circled in image 1. Well I was listening to the sound of the of the bike, yet the rpm's weren't increasing, and it was still stalling. So then, I unscrewed the screw in image 2, well I found out that it was fully twisted to the right. So then, I twisted it to the left, still nothing; it was still stalling... where's the idle screw? I am sure that the screw in image 1 is for the air/fuel mixture screw, and the screw in image 2 is the idle screw, just broken? I don't know, any and every help would be appreciated.


×