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2014 YZ450 Grenaded!

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Hey guys,

Just picked up a 2014 YZ450 from the CL, and sure enough first time out the crank snapped and broke the cases.  Does anyone know of a cheap place to get a used bottom end or what other years/models are compatible (I think  14-17)?  I checked flea bay but can't find anything available, and OEM will set me back a pretty penny. 

Any help is appreciated, 

Thanks guys and gals!

 

 

Edited by Iamcrakhed
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Hey guys,
Just picked up a 2014 YZ450 from the CL, and sure enough first time out the crank snapped and broke the cases.  Does anyone know of a cheap place to get a used bottom end or what other years/models are compatible (I think  14-17)?  I checked flea bay but can't find anything available, and OEM will set me back a pretty penny. 
Any help is appreciated, 
Thanks guys and gals!
 
 

I have a 16 anniversary edition with 31 hours, a rekluse, everything you need to do a top end and a shit ton of other extras for $5k. I went orange and not going back

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Thanks Masterpeen, but not looking to buy a whole new bike, looking for help sourcing a reasonably priced bottom end for the bike I have.

 

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The parts aren't that expensive it's the labor. Buy a new bottom end and cases from Rocky Mountain and Invest in some tusk tools like a Case splitter and bearing puller and a shop manual. Take your time and good luck

 

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Yep 14-18 are compatible

That sux mate - not a cheap fix either - new cases are about $800 OEM

 

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I've found the OEM case for $575 with shipping, the only reason I'd prefer a used bottom end is I can likely get it for the same price but with all the bearings and stuff in place.  Being that it grenaded, I'll have pay to slap fresh bearings in everything. I suppose I'll know more once I get the cases split.  

Just got the top end apart today, the head looks good but the Jug is junk, and has a chunk missing from the skirt. Sucks because it would have been otherwise salvagable. Time to look at big bore kits!

Does anyone have recommendations for an aftermarket crank/conn rod combo I won't have to worry about?

20170808_213809.thumb.jpg.32df4f4222b94657e6ef2942609a59f9.jpg

Thanks!

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Hey Crakhed, 

How many hours were on that 2014 when it went south?  I have 150 hours on mine with no issues.  Maybe it's getting to be time for me to do some maintenance. 

KT

 

 

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I honestly don't know, it was a Craigslist buy, and I don't have the tool to check the ECU.  The former owner claimed it was low hours, but I'm starting to doubt anything he ever said about it. : /

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Does anyone know if the 2017 crank will fit in the 2014?  It looks like they updated part numbers, I wonder if it's of better quality. 

Thanks!

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If you cant find parts you want . Sell your bike in parts and go buy another bike :D . But be carefull this time about what you are buying .

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I honestly don't know, it was a Craigslist buy, and I don't have the tool to check the ECU.  The former owner claimed it was low hours, but I'm starting to doubt anything he ever said about it. : /

WTF .... Always the same shit .... nobody tell the truth , never ever trust anybody when you buying a dirt bike , even your friends or neighbours.

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Just now, aminem said:


WTF .... Always the same shit .... nobody tell the truth , never ever trust anybody when you buying a dirt bike , even your friends or neighbours.

I wouldn't go that far, but you are definitely assuming some risk when buying from a stranger.  I'd say to make sure to read the bike and the signs it gives you.  Unfortunately this one was pretty clean and my x-ray vision isn't 20-20, but my hind sight sure is!

 

 

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I wouldn't go that far, but you are definitely assuming some risk when buying from a stranger.  I'd say to make sure to read the bike and the signs it gives you.  Unfortunately this one was pretty clean and my x-ray vision isn't 20-20, but my hind sight sure is!
 
 

Dude i am so sorry to hear that :/ .


For me Its better to be conservative than getting disappointed .

I think the first thing you should do is an oil change before using the bike, it tell you alot about previous owner .
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That sucks man. We all have concerns when buying a used bike on what the bottom end is like. No way to really know for sure short of pulling the head, jug, and taking the piston off and feeling for play in the rod. Checking the oil filter before your first ride might have revealed some gold shavings but there's no guarantee with that either.

 

I would say you're handling it pretty well and on track to getting it fixed and now knowing exactly what ya have. Honestly, it could have been worse. I remember reading about the same thing awhile ago...first ride and the bike grenaded on a big jump face. The guy woke up in a MRI tube. It's hard to look at the bright side...but there is one since your ok.

 

Good luck to you!

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I've found the OEM case for $575 with shipping, the only reason I'd prefer a used bottom end is I can likely get it for the same price but with all the bearings and stuff in place.  Being that it grenaded, I'll have pay to slap fresh bearings in everything. I suppose I'll know more once I get the cases split.  
Just got the top end apart today, the head looks good but the Jug is junk, and has a chunk missing from the skirt. Sucks because it would have been otherwise salvagable. Time to look at big bore kits!
Does anyone have recommendations for an aftermarket crank/conn rod combo I won't have to worry about?
20170808_213809.thumb.jpg.32df4f4222b94657e6ef2942609a59f9.jpg
Thanks!


From the looks of that cylinder color on the outside seems to have been around the block. It's really disappointing how people take care of bikes. Any idea of what caused it? I had the same thing happen last summer....piston installed backwards.

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probably one of those fools that hope on the bike when its ice cold and decide to take off like superman. Or, maybe one that just disreguards the break in period and never changed the oil even once. Always invest in a magnetic oil drain plug. I have them on everything i own and they work great. It may just tell you that something might be going on.

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I think that sand ate away lower con-rod bearings, caused it to heat up, and then it snapped. I'll be splitting the cases as soon as the tools come in the mail.

 

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On 8/9/2017 at 6:29 AM, Iamcrakhed said:

I've found the OEM case for $575 with shipping, the only reason I'd prefer a used bottom end is I can likely get it for the same price but with all the bearings and stuff in place.  Being that it grenaded, I'll have pay to slap fresh bearings in everything. I suppose I'll know more once I get the cases split.  

Just got the top end apart today, the head looks good but the Jug is junk, and has a chunk missing from the skirt. Sucks because it would have been otherwise salvagable. Time to look at big bore kits!

Does anyone have recommendations for an aftermarket crank/conn rod combo I won't have to worry about?

20170808_213809.thumb.jpg.32df4f4222b94657e6ef2942609a59f9.jpg

Thanks!

Buy a stock factory Yamaha crank. The cylinder Works big bore kit should work if you want a BB. 

Edited by stevethe

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3 hours ago, stevethe said:

Buy a stock factory Yamaha crank. The cylinder Works big bore kit should work if you want a BB. 

This for sure for the 450, or if you want to go the extra mile get a new Yamaha crank and send it to a place like Crank Works or EBR Performance and have them put a CP-Carillio

rod on, Crank Works has their own version of the same rod. Not sure who manufactures the rod for who but they look similar.  It will be a more expensive route but will be dang near bullet proof, this is the route that lots of teams use, and not only at the privateer level.

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