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Handlebar position??


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The bars on my 14 500 exc have been in position 1 (closest to rider) since the bike was new.  I battle with hands going numb while riding and read about changing the position of the bars to help this frustrating numbness.  I could not find much info about bar position when I did a search.  I did find 1 post that was pretty adamant about using position 4 (farthest away).  I am not very tall, 5'9" bare footed, and was wandering what position others use.  I know it's probably a trial and error thing, but I just wanted to get some feedback from the best KTM forum on the net!  Thanks, Scott.

 

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Same bike as you and same height, I run bars in furthest position from me with a Scott's sub mount to raise them 1". This was mainly because the bars felt to close to me when riding while standing, now it's way more comfortable. These 500's vibrate a lot, I've noticed that from day one, I even put gel insoles in my boots because of felt vibration through the pegz. I think adjusting how firm you hold the grips might help. Or I think they sell some type of vibration canceling bar inserts, maybe those will help. 

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23 minutes ago, johnrunner89 said:

Same bike as you and same height, I run bars in furthest position from me with a Scott's sub mount to raise them 1". This was mainly because the bars felt to close to me when riding while standing, now it's way more comfortable. These 500's vibrate a lot, I've noticed that from day one, I even put gel insoles in my boots because of felt vibration through the pegz. I think adjusting how firm you hold the grips might help. Or I think they sell some type of vibration canceling bar inserts, maybe those will help. 

I was also considering a steering damper.  Do you use the stock bar mounts or the mount with the rubber inserts.  How do you like having the Scott's damper?

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the further forward you go the faster  the steering gets like a trials bike. their bars are angled and forward on triple clamp giving leverage and quick turn ability , moving position back and angle back is slowing the steering response making more stable . I would go with whatever your preference but back is more stable

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10 minutes ago, scott72 said:

I was also considering a steering damper.  Do you use the stock bar mounts or the mount with the rubber inserts.  How do you like having the Scott's damper?

I used the Scott Sub with rubber bushings installed (I run red ones which I believe is medium and blue are the softer ones). Unless it's a placebo affect I think both the stabilizer and submount help me a lot, especially at a decent speed with helping minimize deflection feelings. The stabilizer has an on the fly knob to tighten and loosen as you please. You can damn near lock your bars straight for fast sand washes and free them up completely for nasty single track. It was an expensive add on but one of those things that would be hard to ride without after getting used to it. 

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Position one I consider insane, position 2 is only good for sitting, position 3 is better, but bars have to be pivoted up too far forward, which ends up kocking the wrists. So I prefer position 4 , its the tallest position and most forward and allows the bars in a neutral position.

Now I hear the 2017's, pegs may be further back, and if so, position 3 might be more usable.

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Bar position is personal preference, you have to  play around and see what you really like. Everyone is different.  For me personally, bar position depends on what I'm doing.  I'm 6', 32" inseam.  If I'm in a hurry, riding aggressive and in the attack position a lot, then lower bars (stock) make me feel like I have more control.  But I can't stand up strait, so it's rough on the back for longer rides (I stand more than sit).  For longer rides, just cruising around, I run a 30mm bar riser and I can almost stand up strait, which makes it much much easier to stand for long periods.  I think I'm in the middle position, but have to double check.. 
 

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Personally iv tried all 4 positions + different bar rise height (from 5 mm to 30 in 5 mm jumps) and the best of all for me is 4th position without any bar risers. The bars are rotated to a point wich the grips sits parallel to the ground when the bike stands straight and you looking on it from the side. This position puts the middle lines that painted on the center of the bars at the middle of the clamps. Bike handle the best its ever had.

After a few rides ive tried 5 mm risers again and its crazy how crappy it made it feel for me. Since than i dont need and basicly cant ride with risers and i suggest you all to give it a shot and try it for 2-3 rides. Its comes down to personal preferance but you should give it a shot and if its not for you go back.

Anyway - im 6ft, rides with fastway lowerd pegs (10mm) and the bars are on the 4th position as iv mentioned. I ride 3 digits speeds offroad + slow and hard technical enduro with the same setup and its perfect. As for buzzing hands - i had them on the 2nd and 3rd position. 4th made them go away. My bar ends allso filled with small ledd balls for this exact reason but i do it on any bike that i buy.

Edited by Earthmover
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Thanks for all the great insight, as usual. I moved my bars from position 1 to 4 and did like the change.  Hands still went numb, but not as bad.  I'm really considering a steering damper,  but still haven't decided between Scott's or GPR, using the stock bar clamp or going for the rubber mount.

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56 minutes ago, scott72 said:

Thanks for all the great insight, as usual. I moved my bars from position 1 to 4 and did like the change.  Hands still went numb, but not as bad.  I'm really considering a steering damper,  but still haven't decided between Scott's or GPR, using the stock bar clamp or going for the rubber mount.

The plastic ktm wrap around guards do cut down on vibes(and you can actually see the difference in bar end oscillation, the draw back is no flex on jump landings.

 

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  • 6 years later...

So, here is the math behind it all. If your rake is 26.5 degrees (most KTMs) then for every 1” of rise you loose .5” in the cockpit. Let that be your rule of thumb and may give you some insight to why things feel good or bad with changes. I need to measure the movements in positions 1-4. 1 being the most back position and 4 being the most forward position. Positions 2 and 3 are flipping the stock rise 180 degrees in each triple clamp position which gives you all 4 positions. 

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I have a set of 2018 FC250 triple clamps with stock rubber mounts or a set of PHDS mounts for sale. This will help reduce vibration. 

You can also search for bars ends that reduce vibration.  

Let me know if you need pictures so that we can verify all of your accessories could easily bolt to the front/top of the Husqvarna clamp. 

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