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New help diagnosing a clicking noise!

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Hey guys,

It's been awhile since I've posted.  I ended up buying my son a 2012 RMZ 250.  He was having problems getting it cranked when it was hot.  For example if he fell over in a race.  He would wear himself out kicking it.  I put in a new piston.  Got it back to top dead center.  Timed it with the cams right.  Fired it up.  Heard a ticking noise.  Figured it was the cam chain because of what I had read.  I ordered a new cam chain and Stage 1 cams from Hot Cams.  Now I don't know what to use to get the magneto rotor off, which is what the manual calls it.  I assume I can use a flywheel puller.  Does anyone know.  I also don't know what to use to hold it to torque it back down when I get the new cam chain on.  Any help would be appreciated.  I guess what I am asking is what tools can I use to take the magneto rotor off and put it back on.

Update:  I got the magneto off and got it back on using an impact driver.  I replaced the piston, cams, and cam chain.  I adjusted the valves until I got into range.  I am a novice mechanic and I'm sure am not good at this.  I rolled it out and fired it up.  It still has a ticking noise.  What could it be.  Could it be the cam chain tensioner.  Could I possibly be out of spec still.  I check with the feeler gauges until it shows some resistance when I pull it.  

Another question is, should I have some resistance in the kickstart when I try and crank the bike.

Please Help!!!!!

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Hey guys,

Sorry it has been so long since I have posted about this.  I have been attempting to rebuild an 04 KX 85 for step daughter so she can get back in the series.  I just finished it last night.  It was a nightmare.  First one I have done complete.  I appreciate all of your comments.  Will be starting tonight to see what I can do.  To S.O.A.N.Z. I have a video of the sound that I will try to upload but don't know if I can.  You can hear the ticking really good on it.  Sounds worse on the video than in person. To qwert321,  Yes I was careful with the impact driver to put the flywheel on.  Other than the actual tool to purchase I didn't know what else to use.  It was nerve racking.  To notoriousE-R-I-C, I am positive that I put it together right.  I know I am not in spec with the valve lash on the cards that came in the hot cams boxes.  I am in spec for the bike itself.  I contacted Jay Clark from Jay Clark Enterprises and he gave me some suggestions to include that the cams will make a ticking noise.  He did say to get them as close to valve lash on the cards as possible.  I can attempt to post some pics of the timing and tdc if you guys would think that it would help.  I also am having problems with the oil drain gaskets leaking.  Is it because I'm not tightening them enough.  I'm going by the service manual which is not very tight in my opinion.  Again thanks for the help and any other comments and help would be appreciated.

 

I can't get it to load the url but if you go to https://youtu.be/DBOFrhsMyYU which is my son's youtube page, you should be able to see it.  If you have any problems, let me know.  Thanks again guys.

 

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Its an automatic one.  Don't know how to adjust it.  I did make sure it was working properly according to the manual. I probably need to change the gasket on the outside of the cam chain tensioner.  Looks like a crush washer or something of that sort.

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And of course not regulating the exertion of pressure is a bad idea. There are torque specs for EVERY nut and bolt on this bike. There are torque sticks (might just be what I call them) that you put onto an impact and it only exerts X amount of force. This is what they use in tire shops. Car lugs arent "as tight as you can", they have a torque spec too. The kit will have a bunch of different colors with different pressures. You can probably rent a set from OReillys

On Sunday, August 20, 2017 at 6:53 PM, qwert321 said:

Using an impact to install the flwwheel can crack it 

 

don't ask me how I know 

 

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Hot cams. Especially stage 1s. There are different gaps posted for a reason. Just put stock cams back in, stock gaps and see if it clicks. Four strokes click. Especially if an aftermarket cam says use this gap, but you use stock gaps. So not doing proper gaps might not be doing it right, Id think a pro racing cam company has enough clout to follow their suggestions for gaps with THEIR cams. The #s in the manual might not apply.

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Yea that's the first thing I'm going to try.  I should have done it the first time but like I said I'm a beginner when it comes to wrenching.  I'll get them as close to the card as I can and see what happens.

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Stock valve clearance for a 2012 Suzuki rmz 250 is intake between .09 mm to .16 mm and exhaust is between .17 mm to .24 mm. The hot cams stage 1 intake should be at .10mm per the card in the box. That is part number 2200-1IN. The exhaust should be .15 mm per the card in the box. The part number is 2201-1E. I think these are different for each new cam u get.

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Trust me if I can get this work. I'll give you guys a big shout out. I do not have a mechanics stethoscope. Where can I find one.

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Autozone, oreillys, even walmart. Might help you zero in on whats ticking. Point you in a better direction. Get a lead before just opening up and looking. Take anything metal, like an old antenna and put it to your ear. The hoodrat way. Vibrations transfer. This works with anything. Just metal is more resonant than wood.

Wheres my boy at? RMZ250? Zach? Dont you have a 12? Didn't you have Stage 1s? Did you ever handle your situation? Can you lend bricol a hand?

Bricol, Ill text him and get his input. He had the SAME situation. Assembled and disassembled five times and (to the extent of my knowledge) it was his Stage 1s and his bike was fine. This dude knOws that bike now. Hes a beast.

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I believe I have read a post that hit cams use to have a cam grind that was really good but did have a ticking sound so they stopped making it?

 

maybe your bike had one of those cams?

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