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Aluminum kickstart lever for XR200

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I think I've asked this in the past but searched and couldn't find anything.

Browsing ebay I see that 99 and up XR400 levers are aluminum but I can't verify the spline size. Who has an XR400 and XR200 and is willing to compare??

Any other suggestions for an aluminum kickstart lever to fit the 200's??

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The only one that fits is the 1980ish cr125, they are getting hard to find. I think I posted the weights in the weight loss thread of Chucks

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There is an 88 lever on ebay with a tape measure next to it. Its only about 6 1/4 long. The CR125 uses a short high mounted lever that doesn't appear very suitable. It also has no pinch bolt so no way to retain it on the XR. I found two pictures of a 79 lever. one was steel, the other alloy but they still seemed short. Unless there is an odd year in the 80's, none of them look long enough for more than maybe a stock low compression XR. My high comp 230 top end has a hard enough time with a long lever. Still looking for pics of other years

The XR400 uses a low mounted long lever with pinch clamp. Apparently they changed the spline size somewhere around 99 so the earlier one may be a good candidate.

Actually the CR levers are abundant and cheap. the XR levers are pricey. Probably because the two strokes are all expired and the XRs are still running.

 

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The XR kickers are 16mm OD and 30 splines and use two different sizes of pinch bolts; prior to 86 is 6mm and 86+ is 8mm.  The later kicker can be used on the earlier shaft by adding some clearance for the 8mm bolt in the shaft groove.

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1 hour ago, Chuck. said:

The XR kickers are 16mm OD and 30 splines and use two different sizes of pinch bolts; prior to 86 is 6mm and 86+ is 8mm.  The later kicker can be used on the earlier shaft by adding some clearance for the 8mm bolt in the shaft groove.

I was hoping to go to Mid Ohio vintage days for the humongous swap meet but missed out. That's a great place to walk around with kickstart shaft looking for a matching lever. Ebay pics are the second best way. XR250s are aluminum but the 400's look promising. Other brands are possible too but harder to confirm. XR's a re a little unusual because of the low kicker shaft.

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i owned a 1986 cr125 and remember the kick starter was held on with a bolt screwed into the shaft?.....so the shaft had a threaded hole going straight into it where a bolt would screw in with a wide head and hold the kick start from coming off the shaft.......just a thought..... it was 30 plus years ago so its hard to remember.....id check pics on google if you can and see how its setup

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2 minutes ago, joethumper said:

i owned a 1986 cr125 and remember the kick starter was held on with a bolt screwed into the shaft?.....so the shaft had a threaded hole going straight into it where a bolt would screw in with a wide head and hold the kick start from coming off the shaft.......just a thought..... it was 30 plus years ago so its hard to remember.....id check pics on google if you can and see how its setup

My CRF250X is the same.
My XR200 lever is 8", my CRF250X 7".

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The pinchless ones need a shoulder to clamp against. If it otherwise worked, I would have no problem cutting a slot and welding on bosses for a pinch bolt. 

I have high hopes for the XR400 lever and wouldn't mind a little more length. Just need to find one at a decent price. Even trashed ones get $70 on ebay. I won't do that until I get confirmation it will fit.

Other than cruising a swap meet, or working at a dealership. its hard to find possible swaps.

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I searched for a year, and the only lever that is aluminum and has the correct spline is the 1980 cr125.

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1 hour ago, chadzu said:

I searched for a year, and the only lever that is aluminum and has the correct spline is the 1980 cr125.

OK, thanks. The only pics I could find were late 80s and they were too short. Searched some more and it looks like 79-80 are the ones you were referring to. Hard to tell from pics but still looks a bit shorter than the XR. I just ordered one from ebay so we'll see. Can you measure yours?

Another half pound savings,.. and counting.

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The lever arm is a similar distance.  The 200 arm is longer, but thats mostly due to the curved nature of it.  It fits fine with my '82 frame, and even better on the '86+ frame.  Your BBR frame I'm not sure about.  It may be a bit shorter, but I didn't notice it as a problem as I used it.

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Yeah, I like it straighter to keep the foot in close. My peg flips up and should clear but I'll have to figure out a travel stop.

I have a TLR200 lever that it reaches way out from the bike to clear the peg and seems awkward to kick. 

Thanks for the info, can't wait to try it.

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Here is a pic showing the length difference, maybe 1/4" is all
IMG_0893.JPG

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Right after buying one on ebay I found another that looked better.

s-l1600.jpg

Its a 78=80 CR250R looks pretty perfect huh. Unfortunately that bike has a right side chain and a left side kicker. It swings the wrong way but maybe it could be reversed??  Oh well I'll leave that to someone else to try.

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Chadzu, does your lever hit the footpeg mount at the bottom of the stroke? If there is no positive external stop, you are probably hitting the internal stop which is very fragile.

You can test to see if its broken already by depressing the lever while the engine is running. If it makes a grinding noise that means the internal stop is broken and the mechanism is hitting a gear. If it hits something but is silent, then the inside stop is not yet broken. Its pretty important to have the lever hit something external before the inside stop is broken. Its not designed to be the only stop. I lost an engine when the broken piece broke the cylinder liner.

People who do frame conversions or modify the peg mounts need to be aware of this. 

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On 8/15/2017 at 7:53 PM, woodsryder said:

Right after buying one on ebay I found another that looked better.

s-l1600.jpg

Its a 78=80 CR250R looks pretty perfect huh. Unfortunately that bike has a right side chain and a left side kicker. It swings the wrong way but maybe it could be reversed??  Oh well I'll leave that to someone else to try.

Here is an idea that might be worth testing: When moving the kicker to the right side rotate the joint 180 degrees; the bolr head will be down and the raised part is towards the engine. The lever will be on the forward side and pivot out.

Edited by Chuck.

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I suspect the kick lever is not symetrical in respect to the swing stops. On the steel part I could weld up and machine the stops if needed. That ebay seller wants $250 so I won't be trying anything unless I find a cheaper one. 

Might be able to use the XR steel part with the CR lever? 

Would still like to find an XR400 lever, its on the correct side.

My problem is dealing with the travel stop. On the next frame I'll juggle things so the foot peg or bracket is the stop. The engine position is more high and forward in the BBR frame. For now I'll just use an extended bolt from the peg mount to act as a stop. I'll eventually use this bike to test the 06 150F e-start motor.

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On my '82 the lever hits the foot peg mount as a stop just like the stock one did

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