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2000 XR100R - Kick lever won't turn

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Hi, Just got my son a 2000 XR100R. The kick start will not turn, engine won't turn over in gear. Gears will shift, rolls in neutral. I'm planning on fixing it. I have rebuilt his honda clone engine on his Chinese go-kart before so I am don't have a problem tearing into it. I have the 1998-2003 XR80R-XR100R FSM

Where should I start? Tear the head apart to see if it's seized? Or start on the kick start side? Or some other diagnostics?

Any help is appreciated and thanks in advance to those that can help!

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So , I removed the engine from the frame and tore into it. Took the valve cover off, everything looks great, no wear on the journals, etc.

Pulled off the head, pink liquid started to pour out of the cylinder. Looked and smelled like RV winter anti freeze. And there was the problem, the piston was rusted into the bore. Someone thought they were laying this up correctly. Soaked it with penetrating oil and knocked the piston loose with a large dowel. Once the jug was off, everything turns freely, and the lower unit looks good, no wear at all. Took off the right side crankcase cover and every thing looks good in there too.

Attached are some pictures of the head and cylinder. I plan on getting a new cylinder and piston/rings but I'm not sure if I need to get a new head. There is a lot of rust around the valves, do you think I can clean this up, get new valves and cut the seats? Also, since I need a new cylinder and pistons, and I need to take apart the carb to clean, I was thinking of getting the big bore kit as I will probably buy new jets for the carb, thoughts?

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Cleaned the head, cleaned the valves and lapped them. Cleaned the piston and got new rings. Got a new cylinder, new gaskets and kicker oil seal. Ordered a few other parts that were missing. took apart and cleaned the carb.

Put it all back together tested for spark, all good;the electronics seem to be ok. Put some gas in the tank. Petcock was leaking like a mother. Ordered a new petcock and fuel line. But I wanted to start it up. I made a temp gas tank with a plastic bottle and a hole drilled in the cap for a fuel line. Started first kick! Checked for oil out of the screw by the spark plug - all good. I adjust the timing chain tension and idle speed. Runs well.

The clutch seems really heavy. I did all of the adjustments in the service manual but it's not much better. Son's friend has an old XR80 and that clutch is much easier to pull.

 

Any suggestions as to what I can do to make this clutch a little easier? I had the clutch apart when I had the right crankcase cover off and everything seemed to be fine. Clutch basket is perfect and the edges smooth.

 

Thanks!

 

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A little oil will usually work wonders for (undamaged) used cables.............good for a new cable also.  A drop on the lever pivot while you're at it to...............maintenance!;)

Old School Al

Edited by Old School Al
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The clutch pull on the XR100/80's are pretty hard.  The easiest fix is a CR85 style perch and lever or some type of easy pull lever and perch.  I can never remember the brands, but there are tons of posts on that topics that should have the brands.  (I think Moose is one)  I use the CR85 lever and perch.  You can also extend the lever on the clutch cover.  There's a pic of that somewhere too.  Also, a nice lubed cable is nice.

 

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lol, there's a lot of good info on this board, and tons of helpful people! But, the board is not very active and I had to plow forward.

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lol, there's a lot of good info on this board, and tons of helpful people! But, the board is not very active and I had to plow forward.

Yeah, everyone is out riding this time year;)-

 

Sent from my LGMP260 using ThumperTalk mobile app

 

 

 

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And done! Not bad for $150 +$300ish in parts.

Put it all back together, rode it around a little and then it was really bogging down, like a fuel issue. Fiddled with carb, no luck so I pulled it off and took off the bowl. The main jet unscrewed from the post. I guess I didn't tighten it enough. Put it back on, all good now. One kick start.

Here it is (and I know the heat shield is typically used on two-strokes but I didn't want to shell out for a used one)

 

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Sounds like you got a good deal!

Keep clean oil in it and it will last forever. 

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Ok so son rode it some today. Still starts first kick every time, hot or cold. Noticing some blueish smoke when he is riding. I was methodical with the piston rings when I installed them.

Relapped the valves. There is only a valve seal on the intake valve. I did not change this when I did the rebuild. Could that be the issue? I also did not hone the new cylinder. I did not think I needed to but now I am not so sure.

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance!

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My guess is valve stem seal. I dont always hone my cylinders and have never gotten smoke from it. Even with loose specs.

Valve seal is cheap and easy.

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You know, thinking back to when I put the head back together, I remember a green valve seal on the exhaust when I took it apart. I don't remember putting it back on after I put it all back together. I searched all over the garage and couldn't find it. Just cleaned the garage up so chances are it got tossed or is in some dark dirty corner on the floor somewhere. Or maybe it's in the bottom of my little parts washer.

So this means that if I don't remember installing it, I probably didn't.

I ordered a new one.

Is it ok that he still runs it until I get the new one in and installed? It's still running great other than the smoke.

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So, I got a chance to put the new valve seal in. And the old one was in there. It seemed worn so I put the new one in. Don't remember putting it in.

Still burning some oil. We see smoke after the throttle is let off. When I rebuilt the top end, I had to knock the valves loose due to all of the rust (See pics earlier in the thread.)

Since it's burning oil after the throttle is let off, it seems that oil is getting sucked in on the intake stroke when the throttle is closed. Then when open, burns the oil that just got sucked in.

There is no valve seal on the intake. Could worn intake valve guides cause oil to get sucked in? Would it make sense to change the intake side guide? And if so, should I get a new intake valve at the same time?

 

Thanks!

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Ok, so the new intake valve guide and valve came in. In the service manual it mentions that you need to ream the new valve guide in order for it to fit. Well, I do not have a valve guide reamer and I thought I could get away with not having one. Nope. New valve does not fit in guide. So off to the nets I went to find a valve guide reamer. Honda want $90ish for theirs. Nuts, so I found a Kent Moore 5.5 mm reamer for $20, hope it works.

I will update once I do the repair. I thought it would be this weekend but, I have to fix my Scag lawnmower's blown oil seal first. Seems like everything needs attention at the same time - lol

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You could take it to a machine shop.  I did it once, by heating the head up.  But I think I gave up on that head.  

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