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1998 rm250 issue need advice

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Ok my buddy bought a 1998 rm250 recently and after about 15-20 or so hours of riding the clutch stopped disengaging. It is not slipping, it won't release when the lever is pulled. Since cable was already adjusted almost completely out I figured it was just a stretched cable. Bought a cable and when we went to install it the arm is hitting the case before it pushes the rod far enough to do anything. 

Pulled the clutch and basket. Basket shows some grooves on the fingers but not bad and no wear were the shim rides and the hat and Bearing looks good. When everything is assembled the hat doesn't even touch the basket where it should until about 1.5-2mm before it hits the case. The rest of the time the arm swings free like nothing is touching it. Here is where I need help, the push rod will not come out. I have never had an issue where it didn't just slide right out on other bikes. Is there some sort of latch/clip holding the end in? I am assuming I need to pull the arm out now but I can't seem to get a puller on the magneto. The push rod doesn't seem like it is broken but is it possible the the end mushroomed out at the arm end? Do I just add shims and hope for the best? Is there a special way to pull the magneto and then the arm to get the rod out? Does anyone have a walk through or advice in this situation? Thanks in advance.

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The actuator rod (#13) should slide out, "yes" it's possible that its mushroomed so use caution when removing it.

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So I am 99% sure the end has mushroomed and I now know that the only way to get it out is to split the case. Anyone know the minimum amount of seals that I can get by with replacing to do this? Any links to walkthroughs? 

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You need a fly wheel puller like this to get the magneto off https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/925/17329/Tusk-Flywheel-Puller. Once the magneto and stator are removed the clutch arm will slide right out. 

 

It is possible to split the cases without replacing any seals except for the case and cylinder gaskets. If you end up splitting the case then at minimum I recommend replacing:

1. Crankshaft seals

2. water pump (if shaft is grooved)

3. water pump seal

4. Crank bearings

 

This will help you with splitting the cases 

 

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If you know what end is mushroomed then you will not have to split the cases, matter of fact, you won't even have to remove the engine.  Just go to your local hardware store and buy a long punch that's the next size smaller than the rod.

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does the rod not just pull out?? the rod should be a considerably smaller diameter than the area it travels through. or am I missing something?? Also, the actuator arm IMHO would be the item that would wear between the two.

Edited by argclh6670
mis-worded

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