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Kickstarter stuck

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So I did a valve shim adjustment on my 2009 YZ250f and followed my service manual and followed a video on YT. I got my clearances in spec and put a new spark plug in as well. I put everything back together and torqued the bolts to spec, as well as following the timing marks. Now the kick starter won't budge, it feels like something is in the way when I push down. I didn't try to force it because I don't want to damage anything. This bike has low hours and has been taken care of. I'd rather fix this myself than take it anywhere so I can learn from it, any help would be appreciated.

I can attach images if needed

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So I did a valve shim adjustment on my 2009 YZ250f and followed my service manual and followed a video on YT. I got my clearances in spec and put a new spark plug in as well. I put everything back together and torqued the bolts to spec, as well as following the timing marks. Now the kick starter won't budge, it feels like something is in the way when I push down. I didn't try to force it because I don't want to damage anything. This bike has low hours and has been taken care of. I'd rather fix this myself than take it anywhere so I can learn from it, any help would be appreciated.

I can attach images if needed

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Rule out the easy stuff first.

Did you use the right spark plug?  Easy enough to pull the spark plug out and see if it will kick over.

Doc

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I bet it is not just your kick. I bet the whole engine is locked. when you are tightening down the left cover, even before the surfaces meet, you need to be bumping the kick lever a little to make sure nothing is binding.  I did this once and was lucky it didn't break anything.  It is probably one of the gears not lining up.

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Sorry for double posting, the first one wasn't getting fast replies so I used a different thread. The spark plug is the same as the one before and I pulled it out but it's still locked, the cams are seated evenly and torqued to spec. I didn't remove the left cover when I did all this. How would I go about lining up the gears? This is my first time doing this so I apreciate the help

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8 minutes ago, Brent Steele said:

Sorry for double posting, the first one wasn't getting fast replies so I used a different thread. The spark plug is the same as the one before and I pulled it out but it's still locked, the cams are seated evenly and torqued to spec. I didn't remove the left cover when I did all this. How would I go about lining up the gears? This is my first time doing this so I apreciate the help

Sorry, I was also replacing the timing chain when I had the left cover off.  I guess I would put it in gear and push the bike to try and verify if the engine is locked or not.  If it is, I would pull the timing chain adjuster and head cover and see if the binding is coming from the crank or the cams.

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1 hour ago, William1 said:

Ensure the cams are seated properly and the cam timing is actually correct. Did you set the cam tensioner in and locked before you reinstalled it?

The cams moved freely before I put the tensioner in now that I remember. I wound it back and installed it just like the service manual said.

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5 minutes ago, wielywilly-g said:

Sorry, I was also replacing the timing chain when I had the left cover off.  I guess I would put it in gear and push the bike to try and verify if the engine is locked or not.  If it is, I would pull the timing chain adjuster and head cover and see if the binding is coming from the crank or the cams.

I just put it in gear and pushed it. Its hard to push with the clutch pulled in, which is weird.

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Just now, Brent Steele said:

I just put it in gear and pushed it. Its hard to push with the clutch pulled in, which is weird.

Some do that normal.

So spark plug out, clutch out, 2nd gear, pensil or something in the spark plug hole to tell if the piston moves... Does the piston move when bike is rocked?

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13 minutes ago, Brent Steele said:

The cams moved freely before I put the tensioner in now that I remember. I wound it back and installed it just like the service manual said.

You also held the tensioner spring would AND had the push rod retracted during ther install, not releasing it until the mounting bolts were snugged?

Do recheck the cam timing. ensure the cam lobes are at 2 and 10 O'Clock with the marks lined up. DO NOT force the engine, if the timing is off, you will bend a valve. Rotate teh engine using the port on the stator side, spark plug out and rotate. If it will not budge counter-clockwise (normal engine rotation) gently try clockwise. If it moves  one or so turns and 'locks up again, you have a cam or valve issue. If it does not budge, either you dropped a C clip in and wedged in nto the cam chain behind the flywheel or have another  issue.

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14 minutes ago, wielywilly-g said:

Some do that normal.

So spark plug out, clutch out, 2nd gear, pensil or something in the spark plug hole to tell if the piston moves... Does the piston move when bike is rocked?

Mine has always moved freely when in gear and clutch in. The pencil moved up and down so thats good

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Like the moderator said, rotate it a couple revolutions easily (socket through the inspection hole may be better control) to make sure there is no point the valve is open when the piston comes up.  Once you verify this, then you are good in that section.

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14 minutes ago, William1 said:

You also held the tensioner spring would AND had the push rod retracted during ther install, not releasing it until the mounting bolts were snugged?

Do recheck the cam timing. ensure the cam lobes are at 2 and 10 O'Clock with the marks lined up. DO NOT force the engine, if the timing is off, you will bend a valve. Rotate teh engine using the port on the stator side, spark plug out and rotate. If it will not budge counter-clockwise (normal engine rotation) gently try clockwise. If it moves  one or so turns and 'locks up again, you have a cam or valve issue. If it does not budge, either you dropped a C clip in and wedged in nto the cam chain behind the flywheel or have another  issue.

Correct, it was wound up until the bolts were snugged. I'll check the timing again and do what you said

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It moves counter clockwise now but only about a half a turn before it feels like it has compression. I'm not forcing it though. I'll attach some pictures I took so you can see the timing. I don't see a mark on the flywheel when the cams are lined up. Which leads me to believe that's the problem. What does the TDC mark on the flywheel look like? There are several marks that I can see

15029159069161989801682.jpg

150291607371721584936.jpg

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If the spark plug is out and you 'feel compression', something is amiss, perhaps a C clip is not on the bearing and fell down the cam chain tunnel. Or the timing is off. With the cam lobes in the position in your picture, the timing marks should be visible,

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53 minutes ago, Brent Steele said:

Correct, it was wound up until the bolts were snugged. I'll check the timing again and do what you said

The pensil in the spark plug hole will tell you TDC just fine without looking for marks.

picture 2 looks good if the piston is up.

I bet what you are feeling that feels like compression is the cam lubes compressing the valve springs.

Edited by wielywilly-g

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20 minutes ago, wielywilly-g said:

The pensil in the spark plug hole will tell you TDC just fine without looking for marks.

picture 2 looks good if the piston is up.

I bet what you are feeling that feels like compression is the cam lubes compressing the valve springs.

I didn't think about that, I'll try that. Would it hurt to keep turning and force it over?

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