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New to me 94 XR600R. Still can't start the f'er!

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Got a 94 XR600R.  Disassembled and thoroughly cleaned the carb.  I'm used to the old CB750s so that was a snap.  Fuel tank and petcock cleaned as well.  Fresh gas.  Air filter is clean.  I'm getting spark if I ground the plug to the engine.  Not a great spark, but you can see it in the sunlight.

i cannot get this beast to start.  Came close a few times, but it's whipping my arse.  I've been holding the throttle wide open with the compression release pulled and kick through 4 times, then slowly kicking to find what I think is top dead center and then pulling the compression release and moving the kickstart lever down slightly (maybe an inch) . Then, big kick (no throttle). I've tried with the choke on, off, and halfway.  I'm worn out.

What could I be missing?  I'm used to things working.  Got a Honda service manual coming in the mail.  Do these need a battery to start?  This one has a Bajandas Designs kit on it.  Seems to work.  Blinkers work, headlight but no brake lights.  Hmmm.  The battery pack is one of those rechargeable ones with 10AA batteries (Baja designs)

any suggestions greatly appreciated

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Yeah these can be a bitch to start.  Stop using the manual decompressor, the 94 has an automatic decompressor built into the cam.  Push the kickstarter through until it gets hard to push down, (tdc)  allow the kickstarter to come back up. If first start of day full choke. Without touching throttle kick it over.  If it starts then dies go to half choke then repeat kickstart procedure, DO NOT give any throttle.  It should start and idle. If it doesnt fire then die on full choke repeat kickstart procedure.  If after three attempts on full choke and nothing then it's probably flooded.  Chokd off and Pull in manual decompressor and kick thru 3-4 times release the decompressor go to half choke and kickstart procedure, NO throttle.  Hope this works for you.  Are you sure the Baja Designs "ignition" switch is on?  No battery is needed to start.

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Stop full throttleing it.

Check and re set your valves

If the auto decomp is still on, only use manual decomp if you fall. On restart.

Thats why (almost everyone, if you're cool...) takes off the auto decomp off, and keeps the manual. So you can be in control with the use of that.

Take off cam. Pull out the little plunger and spring thats in the head under the cam. Take off cam sprocket. Press off the plate the sprocket mounts to. Pull decomp centrifugal cam off. Weld the cams oil hole shut. Press that sprocket plate back on. Bolt sprocket. Chain. Set timimg. Done. 

Now learn the proper kick routine which works everytime if you dont have a 30 year old worn auto decomp effing things up.

Set your valves. Im not even gonna ask if you own feeler gauges...if you want to have sex, you have condoms right? Same thing to me. Similar thing...get brand NEW pilot and main jets. Especially pilot for starting. Cheap enough and well worth it.

Hows your compression?

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Good advise, don't hold throttle wide open when prime kicking or anytime. The only time I've held throttle open is when it is flooded, and that's with the fuel off and kill switch/ignition off and kick it many time to clear it.

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So there's an auto compression release AND a manual?  I'll check the valves.  The PO seemed fairly knowledgeable.  Supposedly, has a new piston and ring with about 8-9 hours break in.  All street.  The jets are squeaky clean as are all the passages in the carb.  I only had the pilot screw out 1 turn - so that might be part of the problem.  I'll check the valves and report back.  Going to take the motor out soon to repaint etc so I will definitely consider getting rid of the auto decompression.   This bike doesn't know my innate stubbornness.

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Yes, there is an auto-decompressor and a manual one. It does not need a battery to start, assuming it's a stock ignition module and all.  

Could the PO start it?  It may be worth the ol' push or pull start a few times to make sure it will indeed run, and seems properly tuned, before you lose interest from the frustration of kicking your leg to jelly. 

Edited by Hollerhead

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Its not worth the time and effort to remove the auto decompressor.  Honda did a great job designing the auto decompressor and it works great.  I can start mine with one kick everytime once I got the procedure down.

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there's a procedure, do a search, I'm tired of posting it

Sent from my SM-G935V using ThumperTalk mobile app



How about you just find one of these many posts where you explain the procedure and copy and paste. That would at least be helpful considering how terrible the TT search function is.

Sent from my SM-G930V using ThumperTalk mobile app

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Ugh, I've done it twice in the last 30 days. Use Google, TT search is useless

 

Sent from my SM-G935V using ThumperTalk mobile app

 

 

Another vote for:

1. gas on, choke on

2. pull in release, kick thru 3 times

3. let go of release, get on TDC and kick it smooth and hard

4. eng lights off, and pull choke all the way off, warm up motor for several minutes

5. pull on helmet and ...you know the rest!

 

 

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Fresh plug. Went 2,5 turns on the pilot screw. Valves were way loose. Way loose. 

Starts and runs pretty easily now.  I'll have to standardize my start procedure.  I'm of the opinion it should easily start on the first or second kick.  It's a Honda...

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12 hours ago, baldy110 said:

Its not worth the time and effort to remove the auto decompressor.  Honda did a great job designing the auto decompressor and it works great.  I can start mine with one kick everytime once I got the procedure down.

You are 100% wrong on this and there are hundreds of us on here that prefer manual only over auto decomp.

Honda did design it well, thirty years ago. Now that things loose and worn and click clackin. 

If you remove it, go manual only, and learn how to kick a big bore 4t....this is the ticket.

The time and effort, dude, cmon, you cant remove this in under one hour? Hardest thing to do is welding the oil hole shut. And not that the welds hard to do, cause its not, its the size of a booger. Its that not everyone had a welder.

The issue here is as much that auto decomp as it is being new to big bore kicking 

Besides on any 4t to have the valves on point...easy enough on an xr.

Edited by notoriousE-R-I-C

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Getting a little more consistent.   

FYI - If your previous owner stripped out the allen head  cover that lets you get to the crank bolt, and you have to use a cold chisel to turn it out, a tappet cover from a 69-77 or so CB750 will work until you get a replacement.

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