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metal chunks in oil with serial number!?

By julienSF,
in 250-530 EXC-F/XCF-W/XCR-W

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julienSF

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My bike is a Husqvarna FE350s (US) 2016 - I'm posting in the KTM forum because it's the same engine as an EXC and more people have them.
The bike has 45 hours and approximately 1000 miles and oil changes were done every 15 hours. 

On my latest oil change (8/18/2017) I found more coper color flakes in the oil and a chunk of non magnetic metal about 6mm side, 5mm wide, about 3mm thick with part of a serial number on it ( showing: ...  000/  ...).

The previous oil change also had smaller chunks and coper flakes but less - I assumed it was some engine casting and normal wear. I was certainly wrong.

The bike runs good, starts well. All the smog stuff have been removed, has a better fuel rail, improved intake and exhaust and the TPI is adjusted to run like the off-road version (richer). The clutch drags a lot when cold (can barely start in gear) and a little when warm (starts in gear without issue) - all of which is normal for such bikes. The gears work good. But compared to my previous bike - a WR250 -  I find it hard sometimes to find neutral (it won't go to neutral from 1st, bur will go with a light touch from 2nd), The bike doesn't overheat. 

OK, so before I either spend a lot of hours disassembling a motorcycle engine for the first time or give my wallet to the dealer:
would anyone have a clue of what this chunk could come from? What part in the engine has a casted serial number? And which bearing is coper based? 

 

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julienSF

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Warranty period expired 4 months ago - basically when I bought the bike used - it 13 hours was no external signs of an issue.

The technicians at the dealer said the copper flakes are a sign if a rod bearing going out, and I think the only copper bearing on the bike is located on the crank... right? Is there anyway to check this without opening the case? I have an endoscope but can't figure out where I could route it to see the crank. I might be up to remove the piston to check, that's not too difficult - easier than splitting the case.

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chrisso

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Warranty period expired 4 months ago - basically when I bought the bike used - it 13 hours was no external signs of an issue.
The technicians at the dealer said the copper flakes are a sign if a rod bearing going out, and I think the only copper bearing on the bike is located on the crank... right? Is there anyway to check this without opening the case? I have an endoscope but can't figure out where I could route it to see the crank. I might be up to remove the piston to check, that's not too difficult - easier than splitting the case.

I missed it first time round but is there any chance that it's had one of the cases replaced ,like if it took a bad hit and needed replacing ,maybe that's some shrapnel left over from that ,that didn't get cleaned out,does your clutch cover look newer than the rest????
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julienSF

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7 hours ago, chrisso said:

I missed it first time round but is there any chance that it's had one of the cases replaced ,like if it took a bad hit and needed replacing ,maybe that's some shrapnel left over from that ,that didn't get cleaned out,does your clutch cover look newer than the rest????

Chrisso. thanks for the feedback no, looks all the cases have the same level of wear - not much of it. 
Neither the shop nor forums could guess what part that could be so I'm setting up to work on my first engine overall. I'll start with the top end to check the piston and its bearing (top guess) because it doesn't require any special tools. and if isn't that I'll order the tools to for splitting the case.

What I find really amazing is that the bike was working perfectly, no noises, ticking, cracking... nothing like that. 

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bikedude987

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Just go slow and keep everything CLEAN.  Plastic baggies as parts come off really helps, and keep fasteners with their respective parts or screwed back into their holes.  Shouldn't need any special tools past a snap ring plier, KTM is nice in that they have slip fit crank bearings.  Should be able to lightly tap/pull everything apart once you break the seal sticking the case halves together.

 

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Earthmover

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On 22.8.2017 at 2:53 AM, julienSF said:

My bike is a Husqvarna FE350s (US) 2016....

Well, i had a free morning and i did 1.5 hour of resarching to find which one of the casting carries this number, and eventually i did found the casting that lose the "000 /" youv found.


The only engine case that ending with these numbers and a "/" is the big clutch cover. It sits on the inside of it, under the oil level glass.

It was a chellenging search because Husqvarna/ ktm doesnt sell this part alone and the cast part number isnt shown on parts finders on the web. Instead, you get a different number that includes more parts with this cover, wich you can only buy as a bundle so i had to search by key words and not by a part number. Eventually i found good pictures that shows the proper number, and its 77230001000

Here are some pictures of the the number location. I would get a new/ good used main clutch cover (theres a few used ones on eBay), open the cluch covers (the small one and the big one) and investigat this area. To me it looks like you have something wrong in your clutch area and not in the engine itself. The aluminum piece with the number you found tells you should start from there.

Here are the pictures of the number location -  

 

5370378.jpg

2575010.jpg

7452894.JPG

8200226.jpg

 

Good luck, and keep us posted.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Earthmover
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chrisso

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Well, i had a free morning and i did 1.5 hour of resarching to find which one of the casting carries this number, and eventually i did found the casting that lose the "000 /" youv found.

The only engine case that ending with these numbers and a "/" is the big clutch cover. It sits on the inside of it, under the oil level glass.
It was a chellenging search because Husqvarna/ ktm doesnt sell this part alone and the cast part number isnt shown on parts finders on the web. Instead, you get a different number that includes more parts with this cover, wich you can only buy as a bundle so i had to search by key words and not by a part number. Eventually i found good pictures that shows the proper number, and its 77230001000
Here are some pictures of the the number location. I would get a new/ good used main clutch cover (theres a few used ones on eBay), open the cluch covers (the small one and the big one) and investigat this area. To me it looks like you have something wrong in your clutch area and not in the engine itself. The aluminum piece with the number you found tells you should start from there.
Here are the pictures of the number location -  
 
5370378.jpg
2575010.jpg
7452894.JPG
8200226.jpg
 
Good luck, and keep us posted.
 
 
 
 
 
 

Well done mate [emoji106],that's why I asked if it had been replaced ,looked newer or had taken a hit in that area,
I just went to a KTM parts site and it came straight up and shows where it is
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julienSF

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15 hours ago, Earthmover said:

Well, i had a free morning and i did 1.5 hour of researching to find which one of the casting carries this number, and eventually i did found the casting that lose the "000 /" youv found.

Earthmover, I'm absolutely blown away by your generosity! 1.5 hours, that's a lot. Thank you. 

I actually pulled the engine off the bike (why does everything disconnects except the alternator? why?) and I started pulling the engine apart.

So far I have pulled out the head cylinder, the cylinder as well as the clutch cover and the alternator cover appart. I also got the clutch discs out. And... everything is in perfect condition. The piston and the rod have strictly no perceptible play, they turn smoothly, the rod is intact, the piston is intact and in perfect condition, the rings look good (just a thin layer of carbon buildup on top. The cylinder looks perfect, the valves are spotless, the crank has no play and no trace of wear. I haven't measured anything yet but since there is no traces of wear it might not even be necessary. 

I've ordered a bunch of tools from ebay which should be here soon. And I'll be able to pull the alternator, remove the clutch basket and split the case. If something is broken it has to be around the transmission or the shifting mechanism which I can't inspect until I've split the case open.

BTW:
I'm looking at buying whatever I need from http://www.ktmpartspro.com/ . That's the only source of OEM parts I could find online. Is there another one.

 

 

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nomad221

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Join KTM Talk. It's owned by Chip Munn. After joining, click "shop online". Right now he is having a 25% off sale for OEM parts. There location is in Houston so, it may take awhile for the shop to get parts in the mail.

FWIW, I am a very happy customer.

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