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82 xl250r peeing fuel

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trying to get this bike back on the road after 2 years sitting. unfortunately it appears i left the float bowl full of fuel. it came out like coffee even though i had some stabilizer in there along with some carb cleaner. anyway after putting fresh fuel in the tank and flushing the bowl a couple of time it would still not start. i have spark and the top end is new (i rebuilt it, ran it for a few miles, and then put it away). so i filled the bowl with lacquer thinners via the inlet pipe and let it sit for 6 hours. drained that, flushed with fuel a couple of times. but now, the bike pees fuel from the bowl drain tube even with the drain screw tightened up. what the heck just happened? i see an o ring on the drain screw near the big end. i don't recall there being any gasket at the pointy end when I rebuilt that carb a couple of years ago.

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possible the floats may be sticking - give the side of the carb a whack with a screwdiver handle

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No dude. How you clean a carb is take it apart and clean it not fill it with rubber eating chemicals.

You effed your plunger tip up. The float is doing nothing. And your plunger is sealing nothing. 

You have to get all new rubbers. Get in there. Clean it. Replace rubbers. And rebuild.

Next time take off bowl. Or just the nut at the bottom of the bowl. But with the word years...anyone else would have taken off and taken apart the carb to clean. 

 

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Thank you Eric ... that's what I feared ... but lacquer thinners contains toluene and acetone .. same stuff that's in Sea Foam .. I will take the bowl off and see what's up. I only left it in there for a few hours. Anyway nothing lost, I would have had to take it apart anyway.

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Well took the carb out and partially disassembled it. My jaw dropped when I saw the crud in the bowl and jets etc. It looked like beige chalky clay and it was stuck to everything including the plastic float. I scraped most of it out, once loose it was just dry chalky dust and I could pour it out of the bowl. Cleaned the rest with solvent and used a tiny piece of magnet wire .010 to clean out the jets and orifices after soaking those in lacquer thinners. The rubber parts were ok including the float valve .. it was just stuck in its bore because of the crud. So what lacquer thinner does it is turns varnish into chalk. I have seen this on grease-caked gun parts as well. It seems to dry the oils out of the gunk leaving the solids behind. Live and learn.

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Now for problem no 2. (This bike ran great before I parked it and forgot to run the carb dry). After I cleaned out the carb bowl and jets, initially it would only run with the choke on. I noticed I had turned the idle air adjuster to the wrong side (closed it down) when I put carb back together, so I turned the idle air adjustment anti-clockwise (open) about 2/3 of a turn and it would idle and run at low speed. I drove it around the yard a few times to get it warmed up. Fuel was getting down to the dregs so I put a tot of sea foam in the tank and let it run a while to get that into the carb. I then let it sit for about 5 mins to soak. Filled tank with mid-grade, added another dash of sea foam, and started her up again to clean out the carb. However she was dying unless I choked her. So I gave the air idle a tweak anti clock (open) and she would run and idle. Took her for a loop around the ranch, ran great on partial throttle, got her good and hot. But she would die on anything more than 1/2 throttle. And some backfiring from the exhaust. So can I conclude the carb is leaning out when opened past half? And how the heck do I deal with that? The jets are not adjustable. And never had that issue before the big duh. Maybe I need to close the idle air adjustment a tad but I fear that would put me back to square one.

 

And yes I ran the carb dry when I parked her.

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On Tuesday, August 22, 2017 at 5:54 PM, vh2q said:

Thank you Eric ... that's what I feared ... but lacquer thinners contains toluene and acetone .. same stuff that's in Sea Foam .. I will take the bowl off and see what's up. I only left it in there for a few hours. Anyway nothing lost, I would have had to take it apart anyway.

Oh ok. Cant do that with carb cleaner. Id think acetone is the same to rubber. 

Either way, your issue is the plunger tip. Sure, it might just need to be cleaned, but how old are those rubbers? Get a rebuild kit for $20.

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plunger was stuck due to chalky crud. it's not peeing any more but I have what appears to be an overlean condition on wider throttle openings. trying to figure out which direction on the idle air screw is richer, I think it's clockwise when looking from the bottom. anyway I will try that. I also need to take air filter out and check for mud wasp nests .. those industrious little pests built a nest in the muffler, several under the seat, on the fork etc. hate those things. but that would make it richer not leaner.

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OK well in the process I pulled off the old tank (which I treated with POR15 about 10 years ago) since it now has a pinhole leak. The POR15 is also blistering inside the tank and needs redone. If anyone wants it, it's free for the asking but you will need to pick it up (near Abilene) or pay for the shipping (probably around $20 UPS). This is an 82 Honda XL250R red steel tank. No cap, no petcock, I transferred those to another tank I had.

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Turned idle screw out (anti clock looking from bottom of carb) as far as it will go and it's better but still cutting in and out on wide throttle, so I assume there is still some kind of blockage in the main jet circuit. I did remove the main jet and tube, and cleaned them both chemically and mechanically.  I am going to run through one tank of fuel with sea foam additive to see if that clears it. If not the carb has to come off again. It may also be the needle, I don't recall which notch I set it on back when I originally rebuilt the carb. I had the book at that time and I normally just follow what they say. I did not clean the needle itself as that would require more drastic disassembly so it could just be crud on the needle.

So now to the electrical: I put an aftermarket tail light on this thing, it has the LED blinkers, running light, brake light all in one unit. The problem is it didn't come with instructions as to which wire is which. Right now it's dull red when bike is on, the orange side lights come on (both sides) with either the left or right blinker switch so maybe the blinker relay is shot or maybe the wires are hooked up wrong, and as best I can tell there is no brake switch on the bike that would activate the bright red brake light when the brakes are applied. Since this is supposed to be a dual sport, I believe there should be a brake circuit switch but frankly I can't find any place one would go on either the front or rear brake levers, nor any pigtail in the wiring harness for it.

There is a mystery loose harness pigtail (green = ground) in the vicinity of the blinker relay, but that relay has only 2 terminals and that's the correct OEM part. So I am wondering if that ground is for something else. 

And finally my muffler is pretty shot, the outlet is just a big hole with no baffle. Sounds great! At some point I am going to have to replace it. The originals are NLA from Honda and hard to find used. So I am wondering which aftermarket unit will fit this bike (same as the XL500R I believe).

 

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