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20mm offset on a 17?

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Anyone running a 20mm offset clamp on their 17? Have been considering it to get the bike to corner better but was curious if anyone has tried it.

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what is the offset stock? what is yours doing that it isn't cornering well? I am getting ready to order stiffer fork springs for mine as it seems to dive a bit too much in corners imo

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I think it's 22 stock.   'To corner better' is a very vague description of what you're looking for. What's your ability? MX? Have you had your suspension done restrung/revalved? 

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Its a gimmick. Keep messing with the fork and shock settings. Shortening the clamp just confuses the chassis and leaves $800 of your dollars in someone else's pocket. And the other thing, most after market clamps are so stiff, you'll think you messed up the fork some how when you mounted the clamp. I had my bike dialed. I stumbled onto a Topar 20mm clamp. After which I ended up revalving the fork 3 more times to get back to zero. I should just switched back to the old clamp.

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5 hours ago, Shawn_Mc said:

Its a gimmick. Keep messing with the fork and shock settings. Shortening the clamp just confuses the chassis and leaves $800 of your dollars in someone else's pocket. And the other thing, most after market clamps are so stiff, you'll think you messed up the fork some how when you mounted the clamp. I had my bike dialed. I stumbled onto a Topar 20mm clamp. After which I ended up revalving the fork 3 more times to get back to zero. I should just switched back to the old clamp.

yeah, that was kind of the conclusion I came to as well when I tried some years ago. I really didn't notice a whole lot of difference except my wallet felt a lot lighter.

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That is what I was afraid of was just wasting my money and making things worse. I am just looking for a more planted feeling in the front end, and to get it to change direction faster. I like a bike that handles from the front end and right now I feel like to get the bike to actually change direction I have to steer with the rear end and get the bike sliding. I love the motor and love the suspension but just want to get the front end planted so I can initiate turns with the front of the bike again like I could the 13/16 model. I have tried a lot of diff sag numbers and settled somewhere around 104/106, then I started sliding the forks up and down in the clamps, seems like nothing makes it any better/closer to what I am looking for. Have been seriously considering going back to a 16, loved how those bikes handled once I got the set up right, but hate to go back to the air fork issues.

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I wonder if a set of clamps off a 13-16 crf450r would bolt up? They're cheap on eBay and they're 20mm offset.

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I tried a 20 mm Xtrig ROCS clamp but with a Ohlins suspension on it............Its hard to say, bike runs good, corners well with a sacrifice in stability................I just tested for one day.........I did comeback to 22 mm stock clamp with the showa ford (revalved for my weight).

I used to love the way my CRF 450R 2013 turns, 2017 is a complete different feel, but after riding the 2017 more and more (testing sag´s and clicks) I m pretty happy with the bike............by now I feel more confident over my 2017 than the 2013 (full mods, ohlins fork and shock, RHC complete motor setup).

 

Regards,

 

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I'm kinda in the same boat, was thinking of maybe lowering it a smidge, the euro offroad guys are running 2mm longer pull rods, they don't say how much that lower it though.   

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That is what I was considering was the xtrig setup that is adjustable between a 20 and a 22mm offset that way if I didn't like the 20 I could switch it back to the stock 22, just didn't know if i was wasting my money though. Do you think the 20mm offset with a steering stabilizer would be the ticket or not so much?

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5 hours ago, Polishhammer said:

I wonder if a set of clamps off a 13-16 crf450r would bolt up? They're cheap on eBay and they're 20mm offset.

The 09-16's used 48mm forks. The 17-18's went to 49mm.  

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I tried 22mm clamps on an 06 model from the stock 24mm's & didn't notice much of a difference.  I was also trying to get that bike to turn better.  

Keep working with your sag & moving the forks to find a setting that works better for you.  The valving specs also makes a difference on how the forks act on corner entry.  Has the suspension been worked on ?

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The 48mm and 49mm is the inner tube diameter. Inner diameter Doesn't always change the outer clamps diameter. Idk though the older clamps would be worth a shot I think.

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The OD of the forks are still the same as the 2016 bike, I have used the 2017 forks on a bunch of younger 250 and 450 Hondas. I haven't measured the working distance of the triple clamp bearing races in the head and the seal land distances but they might fit up. Not sure about front plastic fitment either.

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I had JM racing re valve it for me, I have had them doing my stuff for years and have always been very happy w it.

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On 8/23/2017 at 11:19 AM, ktm300 said:

I'm kinda in the same boat, was thinking of maybe lowering it a smidge, the euro offroad guys are running 2mm longer pull rods, they don't say how much that lower it though.   

You could kinda fake what you're trying to find out by dumping the sag to like 110mm. It'd handle weird everywhere else, but it'd tell you if you'd like the pull rod thing because all it'd doing is changing the attitude of the chassis (adding rake) which will also shorten the trail, making the bike heavy in the handle bars, slowing the handling significantly. Tiny little bits of adjustment there make huge difference.

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12 hours ago, Shawn_Mc said:

You could kinda fake what you're trying to find out by dumping the sag to like 110mm. It'd handle weird everywhere else, but it'd tell you if you'd like the pull rod thing because all it'd doing is changing the attitude of the chassis (adding rake) which will also shorten the trail, making the bike heavy in the handle bars, slowing the handling significantly. Tiny little bits of adjustment there make huge difference.

I am running 110, and that's exactly how it handles, But I didn't raise the forks at all, would lowering the front bring the handling back around ?

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maybe,try it .I ran lowering links, different clamps,lowered the rads, on my 10 yz it was better, bought a honda fixed it.

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On 8/22/2017 at 6:15 PM, tmauto69 said:

what is the offset stock? what is yours doing that it isn't cornering well? I am getting ready to order stiffer fork springs for mine as it seems to dive a bit too much in corners imo

I had that problem too. I went with stiffer fork springs and stiffer shock spring. I finally gave up and took it to a local suspension guy. He certainly fixed the issue I had with the forks blowing through the mid stroke. Re-valve was money well spent.

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On 8/23/2017 at 3:17 AM, cemmons32 said:

That is what I was afraid of was just wasting my money and making things worse. I am just looking for a more planted feeling in the front end, and to get it to change direction faster. I like a bike that handles from the front end and right now I feel like to get the bike to actually change direction I have to steer with the rear end and get the bike sliding. I love the motor and love the suspension but just want to get the front end planted so I can initiate turns with the front of the bike again like I could the 13/16 model. I have tried a lot of diff sag numbers and settled somewhere around 104/106, then I started sliding the forks up and down in the clamps, seems like nothing makes it any better/closer to what I am looking for. Have been seriously considering going back to a 16, loved how those bikes handled once I got the set up right, but hate to go back to the air fork issues.

Mine: I had to have a re-valve period. Waiting until 50 hours when I knew long ago I really needed to admit to the need for it to be re-valved. I also when with the ride engineering pull rods. My understanding is that they are 1mm > stock. The suspension tuner that did my bike said he measured before/after when he put them on another customer's bike and said it was 5mm lower with the replacement rods. Me I wanted two things - lower the bike a little and improved exit of turns like Keefer Tested podcast described. So I also move the forks 1.5mm up in the clamps and now run the bike between 104-105 sag. You might laugh about moving the forks up just 1.5mm but that makes a big difference in handling (or at least it did for me). When I tried more than that the bike wanted to tuck. Also for a short legged guy, I'll take every bit of lowering that I can get. I like the way mine handles, I can roll on the throttle exiting the rut to use mainly front wheel or I can get on the throttle a bit and use the rear a bit too.

 

3 hours ago, ktm300 said:

I am running 110, and that's exactly how it handles, But I didn't raise the forks at all, would lowering the front bring the handling back around ?

See above.

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