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This shifter shaft is fkn BS!!!!!!!!!!!!

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I've heard these Ktm shifter setups are a joke. But this is the first I've experienced it

 

 

I drove 5 fking hours to go ride and the POS tusk shifter that I bought (that's my first mistake) stripped within the first ten minutes. That tapered shaft is the dumbest thing I've ever seen. I went to tighten the bolt and it snapped at about 15ft lbs. whatever. I jammed the bike in 2nd gear and rode like that all day, royally pissed off.

 

So now. I'm trying to get it out with an ez out and it's not coming!!! Now, the tip of the ez out snapped in the shaft. I'm about to explode here. Riding for the day is now ruined. And now I need another fking $100 shaft and probably a whole bottom end tear down to replace it.

 

IMG_2708.jpg

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This is why I will only run a stock shifter. All the aftermarket ones seem to be made out of butter and they chowder up the splines on the shaft. It's really not a bad design if you keep the shifter tight.

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Drill the center out of a nut to a taper and weld it to the broken bolt. Done it a few time now. It's the fastest way to remove any broken bolt. Drilling is my last resort. Also throw your easy outs in the trash, I have about a 15% success rate with those and only with the quality proto ones. Cheap ones are useless. The other way I have removed them is center punch on the edge of the bolt and spun them out that way.
I agree that setup made me shake my head when I saw it the first time.

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I've removed about 5 of these broken bolts over our KTM ownership with Boa Grabit extractors (made in the USA) - usually the sharp hole cutter is enough to remove the bolt without reversing it in the drill to use the eezi out end. They are waisted in the middle so if it does break (never happened to me yet) then it leaves enough sticking out to still remove it. Bit if heat on the shaft to melt the threadlocker helps but not vital. Anyway, not the end of the world as the shaft is dead simple to replace although you need to remove the clutch basket to be able to pull it through. No other stripping required. If you need to do this ideal time to replace the shaft seal when shaft out. Bob.

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1 hour ago, DEMI said:

15 ft/lbs didn't help the snap factor.

Agreed. My bikes shifter bolt calls for 14nm which is barely over 10 ft lb.

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I've run the tusk without issue.  

I've had less ktm shifter issues than clamp around style. 

Tap the shifter on to seat it. I use a socket.  LOCTITE!

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left hand drills work well. Be careful. If (or when) you break the extractor in the bolt, you then have hardened steel inside the steel, so when you try to drill out the extractor, the bit will move sideways. which is very bad.

The weld nut trick is much more reliable, even if you have to pay a professional welder to do it.

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2 hours ago, pat22043 said:

left hand drills work well. Be careful. If (or when) you break the extractor in the bolt, you then have hardened steel inside the steel, so when you try to drill out the extractor, the bit will move sideways. which is very bad.

 

this is 100% what happened to me and I am royally pissed off.  the bolt broke off 2mm deep into the shaft. drilled it out nicely, all our easy outs sucked.  finally got one to bite hard, was about to spin it out and the extractor tip snapped off flush in the hole.  tried to drill it and it wasnt having any of that. I gave up after about 3 seconds of failed drilling.

 

 I rode again all day, for the second time, with no shifter.   this time stuck in 1st all day long. tight single track though so it was bareable but about 100 times I would have loved to upshifted.

 

I can see a left hand drill bit being an awesome idea.  I thin ill give them a try.  any brands to recommend or avoid?

 

I am at the point where im ready to tack weld the shifter onto the shaft, and leave the damn broken extrator tip in there.

Edited by cdf450
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3 hours ago, cdf450 said:

 

I can see a left hand drill bit being an awesome idea.  I thin ill give them a try.  any brands to recommend or avoid?

At least have a look at the Boa Grabits. They make then in a lot of sizes, right down to M4. The problem with drilling a hole is you really need to use a left hand drill bit or you just drive the broken bolt further in. It then rattles about with the danger of damaging the shaft threads. The Grabit has a left hand hole cutter which by design does not require a dot punch or small pilot hole - just bites into the broken bolt dead centre. You get the complete kit in one little box. I have tried various eezi outs and this is the best I've used. Works every time.  Bob.

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That shifter is a damn joke, yes. Having problems with mine too, but think Ive overtorqued the bolt and that sure doesnt help.

The only thing I could say that helps, is that you "only" need to remove the clutch basket to change the shifter shaft and not split the cases.

Im thinking of hammering it on, use red loctite with a new bolt torque to spec. I heard that helps, but who knows.

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12 minutes ago, Wessmen said:

That shifter is a damn joke, yes. Having problems with mine too, but think Ive overtorqued the bolt and that sure doesnt help.

The only thing I could say that helps, is that you "only" need to remove the clutch basket to change the shifter shaft and not split the cases.

Im thinking of hammering it on, use red loctite with a new bolt torque to spec. I heard that helps, but who knows.

that is nice to hear that the whole motor doesnt need to come apart.

 

another KTM flaw... that clutch side gasket is horible designed.  I believe in 2015 they updated it.  ive got a 2015 clutch cover gasket on the way that I need to install.... while im in there I guess I can go that shaft.

 

I will definitely hammer the OEM one on, and red loctite on everything.

 

is this the extractor kit?  https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-pro/products/alden-8440p-grabit-pro-broken-bolt-and-damaged-screw-extractor-4-piece-kit

 

thats small enough to deal with these m8 and m6 bolts all over the bike?

Edited by cdf450

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Hi I have the micro kit which is fine for down to 4mm dia threads. You have to make sure you install the nordlock washers when you are mounting the lever. A thing that has really helped us with loose levers on the race and praccy bikes is a generous thick coat of torque paint (like the stuff you see on your callipers etc when bike is new) over the lever and bolt. Our initial idea of using it was to check that the bolt hadn't turned and broken the paint after each moto, however I put far too much on and it seems to have locked the bolt up and we haven't had to retighten over many months. Works for us, even withstands power washing, and is v cheap. Bob.

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1 hour ago, Wessmen said:



Im thinking of hammering it on, use red loctite with a new bolt torque to spec. I heard that helps, but who knows.

Blue is all you need. Install shifter and snug bolt. Use a bigger socket that will go over the bolt, like a 12mm, and firmly tap on the shifter to seat it.  Tighten bolt. 

 

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KTMs are an expensive joke.
Maybe, but no mention of the "joke" of overtightning the bolt? I don't care what kind of bike car etc you over tighten bolts on .... Bad things tend to happen when you do that...
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I didn't over tighten it. The 15ft lbs was just a complete guess. I don't know what exact number it snapped at but it took no effort at all, basically just the weight of the 1/4" drive ratchet resting on the bolt snapped it in half. And yes I had that washer in there to really press against the shifter. Was such a fun day. Don't get too hung up and obsessed on my estimated number I threw out there while raging mad making this thread. That's not the problem/point here. I'm not the only one to have problems with ktms stupid tapered shafts. Nor with that shifter bolt CONSTANTLY coming loose, Nor with tusks junk aluminum shifters.

 

Plus. Since when does a bolt just snap versus taking out the threads???

 

Honestly. If I had just taken the two seconds to get a proper easy out versus using our worn out broken garbage ones it woulda been fine. Hindsight is 20:20 eh? Our shop garbage now has about 30 drill bits in it and a dozen easy outs. I went on a throwing out spree yesterday.

 

Taking it to the shop tonight to weld the god damn shifter on. Done deal. No more problems.

 

 

 

 

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2 hours ago, partsguy57 said:
19 hours ago, Hudson Charlton said:


KTMs are an expensive joke.

Maybe, but no mention of the "joke" of overtightning the bolt? I don't care what kind of bike car etc you over tighten bolts on .... Bad things tend to happen when you do that...

I was surprised that I mentioned before anyone else, that is the biggest problem, like it or not. Then it goes to he'll from there. Pay no mind to a troll.

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