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Stator voltage and wattage and A/C side conversion

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Hey, just a quick question as I'm having a bit of trouble finding the info I'm looking for. Had the bike out Saturday riding at a friends place, and after a lot of stopping and starting, my magic button stopped working, and I had to resort to manual labor and kick it over. 

 

Came home today and checked the charging voltage and I'm only at 12.3 volts, so obviously I'm down on charging power. I installed a trail tech universal fan kit that's a direct to battery setup, pulling 30 watts. So I'm wanting to know how much extra wattage the charge side has to play with. Obviously I know my stator is weak and I'll get that fixed up, just don't want to put another stator in it and overload it as well, if that's what's happened.

 

Also, my bike has a race harness on it, so I'm not running anything off of the A/C side of the bike. Has anyone converted the A/C side over using a rectifier to power lights, fans etc, and if so, what'd ya use.

 

Thanks

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I fitted a rectifier and ran a 40w light bar for a night race. I have read the charge circuit is 30w can't remember where though. 

 

MM 

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Charge ckt DC side is 18-20W, not 30W, from my measurements in series with the battery. More than 20W and your in constant loss mode, which explains your problem.

As Marty said, and I have done as well, run a bridge rectifier from the higher output AC side if you need more DC power for lighting.

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1 hour ago, GP said:

Charge ckt DC side is 18-20W, not 30W, from my measurements in series with the battery. More than 20W and your in constant loss mode, which explains your problem.

As Marty said, and I have done as well, run a bridge rectifier from the higher output AC side if you need more DC power for lighting.

Thanks GP. What bridge rectifier did you use?

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The one Marty linked is fine and we use similar.  Its more about the ease of terminal connections than ratings, as smaller bridges closer to the rating of the stator are usually for PC board applications.  I run a 40W array but we have run as high as 72w with no issue.  A filter capacitor cleans up the ripple and reduces flicker at idle, depending on the array used. 

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The AC side of my stator was failing. I got low voltage out of it so I installed a Trail Tech Stator that comes with an upgraded rectifier/regulator just for this purpose. It converts the AC (lights, horn, fan) side to DC. They still don't work unless the bike is running but it was easy and the kit is plug and play. Although the instructions aren't the best I figured it out without any phone calls. They include a few extra parts in the kit that aren't needed on our bikes. 

http://www.trailtech.net/sr-8310

With this stator I'm running a Cyclops LED bulb in the stock housing. It's awesome.

 

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6 minutes ago, Mulley said:

The AC side of my stator was failing. I got low voltage out of it so I installed a Trail Tech Stator that comes with an upgraded rectifier/regulator just for this purpose. It converts the AC (lights, horn, fan) side to DC. They still don't work unless the bike is running but it was easy and the kit is plug and play. Although the instructions aren't the best I figured it out without any phone calls. They include a few extra parts in the kit that aren't needed on our bikes. 

http://www.trailtech.net/sr-8310

With this stator I'm running a Cyclops LED bulb in the stock housing. It's awesome.

 

Yea, I just saw that system this morning. Since I know I've lost a leg on my stator, charging at 12.3V, that's probably the route I'm gonna go. I run a race harness and the only pull on my system is a trail tech universal fan. Anything weird or funky I should know about?

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Yea, I just saw that system this morning. Since I know I've lost a leg on my stator, charging at 12.3V, that's probably the route I'm gonna go. I run a race harness and the only pull on my system is a trail tech universal fan. Anything weird or funky I should know about?
Not really. Don't cut any wires or disassemble any clips. It's all plug and play. There is a separate baggy that includes parts and heat shrink for swapping out push pins in a wiring harness connector. It's not used for our bikes.

The rectifier/regulator is a little larger than the oem. Mine is only held on with one bolt but it's still pretty secure. It survived the TKO race 2 weeks ago like this. I need to drill and tap for the second bolt.

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