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2012 WR450F boiling over -- thank goodness for overflow tank

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I've been doing low speed balance practice and lots of first gear creeping and discovered after shutting my bike off the other day I was boiling like a madman. I didn't lose any coolant due to the overflow but was wondering what I could do to cool it down some other than add a fan. I have no problems adding a fan except for the fact that my battery terminals literally cannot support another thing on them. I've got 4-5 things already running to them as it sits. Lol.

 

I've already tuned my ECU to be richer in the first box (and across the board), I think it's set to like 3. 

I'm thinking maybe engine ice and a higher pressure cap might help; and I'm not sure if boiling over into the overflow is really even reason for concern. Any other suggestions? 

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Can you ride at any sort of speed, even 10 mph, for a couple minutes prior to shutting it down? My 05 boiled over onto the driveway after low speed drills, so next time I did a couple easy laps around the yard, and no problems. :)

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I hacked a Spal 30103018 4" Paddle Blade Puller Fan onto my 2012 with a manual switch and inline fuse. Works really well, but took a lot of "trimming" of my radiator brace.

I put it on because I simply can't ride single track faster enough to keep the bike cool and there's no option to just ride the bike a bit to cool it down before stopping when I'm exhausted on some of those trails.

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Thermal wrapping tape around the header may help as well, keeping the heat away from the radiator. WR's have dump truck radiators in them, if you use quality coolant and as mentioned already go for a quick circuit before shutting off and don't let it sit there for any more than 5 seconds idling you shouldn't have any dramas. I have removed my over flow tank and rarely use coolant.

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On 8/29/2017 at 9:23 AM, THE KRAN said:

You can use a car stereo 'power buss' to provide more/better connection locations for the battery

More air is the key. A fan gets it.

 

I'll have to look into these. I did a quick google search but not seeing anything I can use as of yet. I essentially need a 6 into 1 terminal that goes to the battery. Right now I have a number of different terminals off each lead, and it's a gigantic cluster. 

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I think what I'm looking for is a power distribution block kit.

Being that I'll need two (one for both positive and negative) this is going to be an expensive little run just to get a fan. 

I've got a ton of high CFM computer fans sitting around that I'll probably use instead of running a SPAL, just to save cost. I may be able to stack two; haven't measured yet.  In my bit of research it seems these actually hold up remarkably well tough don't move as much air as a "proper" fan. 

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Only one person suggested a radiator cap!

The radiator cap is the pressure regulator of your cooling system, Higher cooling system pressure means higher boiling point.

You should be replacing the radiator cap every year.

If you go to the local Auto parts store you can buy a radiator cap for a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 V6 it is the same cap and pressure rating that comes stock on the WR,

It cost $8.00 buy 2 they are cheap. If you replace often to maintain the 16 PSI rating you do not need the 20 PSI cap for $25.00

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9 hours ago, GCannon said:

Only one person suggested a radiator cap!

The radiator cap is the pressure regulator of your cooling system, Higher cooling system pressure means higher boiling point.

You should be replacing the radiator cap every year.

If you go to the local Auto parts store you can buy a radiator cap for a 2000 ford ranger 3.0 V6 it is the same cap and pressure rating that comes stock on the WR,

It cost $8.00 buy 2 they are cheap. If you replace often to maintain the 16 PSI rating you do not need the 20 PSI cap for $25.00

A new cap is an idea. But I haven't replaced one yet. Even in my 07' that is still being ridden. :ride:

More coolant also gives a higher boiling point. 

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2 hours ago, stevethe said:

A new cap is an idea. But I haven't replaced one yet. Even in my 07' that is still being ridden. :ride:

More coolant also gives a higher boiling point. 

What are you saying? Your bike still works even though your maintenance is poor?

Less coolant does not change the boiling point of anything? it just boils faster in an engine that cannot reject the heat it generates because the cooling system efficiency is compromised due to low coolant.

Again poor maintenance!

You should pressure test a radiator cap sometime. You would be surprised by the result!

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11 minutes ago, GCannon said:

What are you saying? Your bike still works even though your maintenance is poor?

Less coolant does not change the boiling point of anything? it just boils faster in an engine that cannot reject the heat it generates because the cooling system efficiency is compromised due to low coolant.

Again poor maintenance!

You should pressure test a radiator cap sometime. You would be surprised by the result!

Sorry, more coolant sure raises the boiling point all the way up to 388 degrees for straight coolant. 

Why test the cap when it never boils over. Wouldn't it boiling over signal a bad cap?

https://www.reference.com/science/temperature-boiling-point-antifreeze-c1882c030d2b3cca

Who changes radiator caps for maintenance. I once rotated my battery caps does that help. 

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Sorry, more coolant sure raises the boiling point all the way up to 388 degrees for straight coolant.  


Why would you want to raise the boiling point when the bike has a catch tank? All that would do is let your engine get too hot before you knew it. Boiling over is a signal that your engine is too hot. Without that, you would just keep riding and do damage.

A fan, high flow impeller, or larger radiators are really the only way to make an engine run cooler given the same conditions.

Some coolants also have better heat transfer properties, but most of those that have any significant difference also have a lower boiling point than what the engine can safely handle and raising the pressure with a higher pressure cap to get it high enough to put the boiling point back to where is should be would just force the coolant past gaskets which is no good.

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1 hour ago, woods-rider said:

 


Why would you want to raise the boiling point when the bike has a catch tank? All that would do is let your engine get too hot before you knew it. Boiling over is a signal that your engine is too hot. Without that, you would just keep riding and do damage.

A fan, high flow impeller, or larger radiators are really the only way to make an engine run cooler given the same conditions.

Some coolants also have better heat transfer properties, but most of those that have any significant difference also have a lower boiling point than what the engine can safely handle and raising the pressure with a higher pressure cap to get it high enough to put the boiling point back to where is should be would just force the coolant past gaskets which is no good.

 

Hum on our type of riding with built motors out here in So Cal. we all run nearly straight antifreeze coolant. No engine damage whatsoever. With 50/50 it boils it all out of the radiator past the resivoir tank. 

However most do not do that type of riding and straight coolant doesn't work in freezing climates. So I would only recommend 70/30 coolant. 

This is an example of a hill climb with a fully built 07 WR450 motor that would puke 50/50 out big time. 

https://streamable.com/

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On 9/6/2017 at 11:52 AM, stevethe said:

Hum on our type of riding with built motors out here in So Cal. we all run nearly straight antifreeze coolant. No engine damage whatsoever. With 50/50 it boils it all out of the radiator past the resivoir tank. 

However most do not do that type of riding and straight coolant doesn't work in freezing climates. So I would only recommend 70/30 coolant. 

This is an example of a hill climb with a fully built 07 WR450 motor that would puke 50/50 out big time. 

https://streamable.com/

You have no idea what your talking about! Please do not associate me with your "We All"

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1 minute ago, GCannon said:

You have no idea what your talking about! Please do not associate me with your "We All"

Simply wonderful bud. I'm glade I've been doing what I have on motorcycles completely successfully for over 50 years. 

 I clearly wouldn't and didn't associate YOU with any riders in our group. But that's pretty funny. 

 

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5 hours ago, GCannon said:

You have no idea what your talking about! Please do not associate me with your "We All"

That's three posts at least with nasty attitude and rudeness.

If you don't like the advice given, then don't take it

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I don't think in 27 years I've ever replaced a radiator cap on a bike. Ever.

I'm also incredibly offended that you're incredibly offended by being lumped into a category. My offendedness takes precedent over yours since I'm the OP. Move along now if you're going to be offended over my offendededness over being offended. 

 

I might be due for some engine ice, but don't know if I'm just masking the problem or if it'll actually help. I've got a bottle or two in the shop leftover. 

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Ok! You win.

I gave some very specific advise that would fix the OP's technical problem.

I even gave a low cost solution to the problem.

Then Steve presents  irrelevant technical advise that did not pertain to repairing the OP's problem. then he gets offended that I call him out on his irrelevant nonsense. This type of information is not only not helpful but is a waste of time and money for the OP.

The relationship between Pressure Temperature and Volume is what at play here not the brand of coolant,  all coolants perform basically  the same. this is basic Boyle's Law.

Krannie:

I am enjoying the irony that you, the most thin skinned member on the Message Board for many years has now become the "Enforcer"  I will leave you and Steve to remain as king's of the forum.  keyboard warriors who reply to everything just to maintain your ego.   Get your facts straight!  In my humble opinion it is a shame  for people asking for help to waste time and money figuring out who on the board knows what they are talking about. That is why i am calling Steve out on his posts.

Malignity:

You wont hurt my feelings if you don't take my advise.  I am just trying to help you. If you think I have a bad attitude then  I'm sorry.  I will admit I have a low tolerance for BS and I don't like it when people proclaim to be expert and give bad advise that will waste your time and money.

You can spend $8.00 on a new radiator cap and your problem will be completely solved as another member pointed out, or you can waste $20.00 on a bottle of engine ice that will do nothing to solve your problem.  You will still need that radiator cap. You could do both. You don't need the high pressure radiator cap although it wont hurt you just need to restore your cooling system function to what Yamaha intended (they did the research and the math).

Just because you haven't replaced a radiator cap before does not mean its not bad. If you don't trust me have it tested you will be surprised what you find test a new cap just for fun. any shop that does cooling system work and some auto parts store can test a cap in 2 minutes for free. My advise "Why guess when you can Test"

 

Now with humility and respect I  will leave and let you gentlemen take your shots!

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On 8/29/2017 at 5:41 AM, malignity said:

thinking maybe engine ice and a higher pressure cap might help; and I'm not sure if boiling over into the overflow is really even reason for concern. Any other suggestions? 

i would try water wetter mixed with enough anti-freeze to getcha by in your climate along with a decent rad fan and maybe a new cap. I see boil overs almost as a tale tell kinda like a boat motor. i have one buddy thats very old and agressive he keeps going until his husky is blasting visible steam/coolant then he takes a break and lets her cool off

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