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Has anyone sampled various Rekluses on a YZ250?

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Seems there are four offerings from Rekluse for the YZ-250. The new Radius X  and CX and the Core EXP 3.0 and Z Start Pro. I would assume the newer ones are the way to go, but just wondering how they differ in function and operation if any local member has experience with them. I really enjoyed riding a Husky TX 300 with a Rekluse setup last winter. Not sure what model it was equipped with. Loved the left hand braking. 

Edited by nicad

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I find as you move up in the models the clamping force increases for more of a stock clutch felt... And for sure when you go to the latest models there clutch plates last forever, oil last longer and over all cooler .. just put the cx on mine... At this point the zstart is outdated and gives a delayed feel...

 

 

 

 

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Anyone know what the difference is between the radius x and cx. I know the x is just the plates and springs but how much different does the clutch feel between them?

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It is basically the full set up like the core exp but with with the torque drive plates...(more clamping force because they jam an extra plate in... It is a work of art... When I opened it up i was impressed... Basically you are paying another 100 bucks for the torque drive plates.. and set up ..

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2 minutes ago, wwillf01 said:

It is basically the full set up like the core exp but with with the torque drive plates...(more clamping force because they jam an extra plate in... It is a work of art... When I opened it up i was impressed... Basically you are paying another 100 bucks for the torque drive plates.. and set up ..

I was curious about the difference in "Stock Lever Free Play" between the radius cx and radius x. Its the only difference I see other than not including the basket/hub/cover.

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I have the radius x on my yz150 but have to set the free play differently than normal because I went with hydro clutch.. but... What you list is the difference... I find when you get the whole assembly they hold up better if you use you bike a lot, are hard on it or race it...

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2 minutes ago, wwillf01 said:

I have the radius x on my yz150 but have to set the free play differently than normal because I went with hydro clutch.. but... What you list is the difference... I find when you get the whole assembly they hold up better if you use you bike a lot, are hard on it or race it...

So it is only how you have to adjust the free play? No real difference in functionality or lever feel?

I'm tempted to get a x, honestly can't justify the price of the cx.

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So it is only how you have to adjust the free play? No real difference in functionality or lever feel?
I'm tempted to get a x, honestly can't justify the price of the cx.


Go with the core. Unless you have a hydro clutch with a dedicated slave cylinder your stock cable clutch will become rock hard with the radius X. We put one on my buddies CRF and I couldn't believe how hard the clutch pull was. I like to still feather the clutch lever constantly so this wouldn't work for me. Had a core in my FX and I was great. Now have a core in my Beta 250RR and it is also great. Clutch pull feels normal. The CX was not out yet when I got the core for my Beta. Probably would have gone with that as I like the torque drive plates. It gives a similar feel to the heavy wedges and low rpm springs in the core.
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1 minute ago, NW_drZ said:

The CX should give what the core gives clutch pull wise plus the better feel when not clutching... That would be my complaint with the radius also. I still use the clutch all the time..


Go with the core. Unless you have a hydro clutch with a dedicated slave cylinder your stock cable clutch will become rock hard with the radius X. We put one on my buddies CRF and I couldn't believe how hard the clutch pull was. I like to still feather the clutch lever constantly so this wouldn't work for me. Had a core in my FX and I was great. Now have a core in my Beta 250RR and it is also great. Clutch pull feels normal. The CX was not out yet when I got the core for my Beta. Probably would have gone with that as I like the torque drive plates. It gives a similar feel to the heavy wedges and low rpm springs in the core.

 

 

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2 hours ago, wwillf01 said:

It is basically the full set up like the core exp but with with the torque drive plates...(more clamping force because they jam an extra plate in... It is a work of art... When I opened it up i was impressed... Basically you are paying another 100 bucks for the torque drive plates.. and set up ..

I think it is quite a bit more than $100. As I recall $595 for the Radius X $995 for the CX.  Not sure that is exactly what was quoted.

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I think it is quite a bit more than $100. As I recall $595 for the Radius X $995 for the CX.  Not sure that is exactly what was quoted.

He was quoting it as $100 more than the core, which it is.

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I have a Z Start Pro in my YZ250 and I've ridden and dealt with a Core in a KX295. The Core got out of adjustment and was difficult to readjust. The ZSP is set it and forget it.

 

The only time I want more "clamping force" is on hero dirt days with tons of traction with a bunch of tight turns. I found myself using the lever to give it some more zap out of turns. On non hero dirt days it's perfect.

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3 minutes ago, 2strokeYardSale said:

I have a Z Start Pro in my YZ250 and I've ridden and dealt with a Core in a KX295. The Core got out of adjustment and was difficult to readjust. The ZSP is set it and forget it.

 

The only time I want more "clamping force" is on hero dirt days with tons of traction with a bunch of tight turns. I found myself using the lever to give it some more zap out of turns. On non hero dirt days it's perfect.

I have not had issues with the core... Put 400 hours on the last one.... replaced plates every 150..... using a hour meter... Now that being said I find for single track riding at least here at higher altitude their settings and spring types always have to be changed... I have yet to have one that their settings work out of the box.... (yz250, yz125, ktm 300, ktm 150sx, yz450f, cr500) It is like they are only tested at a track.. I found the zstart pro is bulletproof but has a half second delay.... In which you get used to unless you are switching from bikes with and with out a zstart...

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I researched the various auto clutches and picked the Z Start Pro (only Core and Core Exp were also available at the time), then researched the proper settings for gnarly trails. It turns out that was the stock/recommended setting.

 

What do you mean delay? Like it's doing its thing slipping in second gear in a rock garden and you come out of the rock garden into some loam and grab a handful? Yeah I suppose it takes a few more revolutions to fully hook up.

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5 hours ago, NW_drZ said:

I couldn't believe how hard the clutch pull was.

Clutch pull should be determinated by the angle of the clutch's actuator arm. If done right the clutch should start acting at a 90 degree angle.   

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6 minutes ago, arnego2 said:

Clutch pull should be determinated by the angle of the clutch's actuator arm. If done right the clutch should start acting at a 90 degree angle.   

We changed nothing on the actuator arm, clutch perch, clutch lever (other than taking up all the slack to get the correct free play gain) when installing the rekluse.  Before the clutch lever was nice and easy.  After the clutch pull was rock hard.  The heavier clutch plate springs and constant tension on the lever create a stiff pull.  With the radius X on a hydro clutch or the Core on a cable clutch, you use a pressure plate or slave cylinder system to alleviate the stiff pull.

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1 hour ago, 2strokeYardSale said:

I researched the various auto clutches and picked the Z Start Pro (only Core and Core Exp were also available at the time), then researched the proper settings for gnarly trails. It turns out that was the stock/recommended setting.

 

What do you mean delay? Like it's doing its thing slipping in second gear in a rock garden and you come out of the rock garden into some loam and grab a handful? Yeah I suppose it takes a few more revolutions to fully hook up.

My problem with the Z start is the limp lever off idle.  When I'm trying to hop on obstacle from almost a stand still, i like to be able to modulate the lever and snap the bike up.  I find this easier with the Core since I have the constant normal lever pull throughout the RPM range.

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1 minute ago, NW_drZ said:

After the clutch pull was rock hard.

Have a look at the angle of the actuator arm. It is the distance of the push lever bar that determinates the strength of pull. That is where most issues come up. The plates are OEM and brand new have 3.1mm each, once down to 2.95mm the distance of the boss to the actuator arm becomes shorter thus having an effect on the pull (and angle)  

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Of those that went with Rekluse, did you go with left hand braking? Are there many options in terms of master cylinders? I see no need to keep the foot lever if i go this route. Would you then plumb the line directly to the caliper?

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