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2017 430 RRS...dead battery while riding today? Need help.

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Hi Guys.  Not sure what happened just yet, but with just 6 hours on my bike it would not start after shutting it off to take a break.  We were riding today for maybe 2.5 hours, with perhaps 5 or 6 breaks in there spread out.  Had zero issues restarting the bike all those times..except for the last break.  It seems the battery went totally dead, very quickly as there was no indication the battery was dying at all..just would not start after the last 15 minute break.  I checked all the fuses and wiring and see nothing that would kill the battery quickly.  Turn the key on, no lights...no nothing.  Could not even kick start it.  I never heard the fan come on at all today as it was a bit cool and it was fairly open terrain.  Any ideas on where to start looking?  The bike is under warranty, but it's a 2.5 hour drive one way to the dealer...and it's a weekend I want to be riding.  Any help would be appreciated.

Woody

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I had the same thing happen to me on a solo ride 5 miles from the truck. That was a long hike. Couldn't find anything, so I bought a Lithium Ion jump starter to carry in my pack. After 3 more rides, and several jump starts, I finally found my problem. Turns out the plug came loose, but didn't come off on what I believe in the voltage regulator. It's on the frame up front on the left side in front of the fuel tank. Once I found it, and plugged it all the way back in I haven't had the problem again.

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I smushed the wire that goes to the starter button with a U clamp for a mirror and it ran the battery down and popped a fuse. Check your wiring for something an aftermarket install may have damaged.

 It might not be easy, but it should have kicked over?

Edited by Johnny Depp
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Hi mtngoat,

 

I just checked it and the plug is fine.  Perhaps the voltage regulator went bad.  Not sure how to check it to see if it is bad.  Thanks.

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Hi Johnny,

I have no aftermarket items added, however I will check the wiring out real good tomorrow.  I did have a few minor crashes, but nothing that should have damaged wires...but one never knows for sure.  There are no blown fuses, but I'm not sure I checked every one on the bike.  I sure hope it is that simple and a quick repair can be made....if I need parts, like a voltage regulator my long weekend for riding is screwed.

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Was the bike on a tender for the battery? Another possibility may be that the bike motor is tight and may kill battery because it's taxing the battery too much . It happens to a variety of 4 strokes of different brands when new until the bike is broken in. It's happened to my 525 and I didn't realize that was what was happening until my bike broke in. I couldn't crank over my bike hardly or not at all when it was hot and newer. I had to use the starter to turn over. A few months later I could just kick over the bike in 1 or 2 cranks easily and my battery didn't die anymore. Just keep it in mind that this is one possible reason.

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I always turn off the ignition.  After doing some checking with a multimeter this morning, it turns out the battery has better than a 75% charge so that is not the issue.  Called the dealer (Kissell) and the tech told me what to check for on the ignition switch.  Bad ignition switch.  Being under warranty, the dealer advised taking it there early next week to have it replaced.  Not too happy about it as it's a 2.5 hour drive one way, and for an ignition switch to fail after turning it on/off maybe 25 times total...is simply inexcusable.  Perhaps going forward, it may be better to NOT turn off the ignition switch if only taking a 5 minute rest break.  I'm not sure what the cost of an ignition switch is, but it may be (gas) money and time saved if I tell them to order me one and ship it and I will change it myself...but I don't want to void my warranty.

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I turn my bike on/off at the keyed ignition switch, otherwise, power is being used.  

Sucks that you are 2.5 hours from a dealer.  

I consider myself lucky that I'm 25 miles/30 minutes from my dealer although I do wish one were closer.  

 

You won't void you warranty by installing a new switch.  If it were me, it is what I would do, if I knew it were the switch that was the culprit.  A 5 hour roundtrip is really something.  

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Will the bike run with the switch unplugged? The battery has 2 10 amp fuses in the little starter relay right next to it. 1 is a spare. That is the only fuse on the bike I think. I assume you already shot the ignition with WD-40 and jiggle it while holding your mouth right :facepalm:? You can jump the starter relay under the seat and disconnect the control wiring just to troubleshoot.

Edited by Johnny Depp

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2 hours ago, pacoalcracker said:

I always turn off the ignition.  After doing some checking with a multimeter this morning, it turns out the battery has better than a 75% charge so that is not the issue.  Called the dealer (Kissell) and the tech told me what to check for on the ignition switch.  Bad ignition switch.  Being under warranty, the dealer advised taking it there early next week to have it replaced.  Not too happy about it as it's a 2.5 hour drive one way, and for an ignition switch to fail after turning it on/off maybe 25 times total...is simply inexcusable.  Perhaps going forward, it may be better to NOT turn off the ignition switch if only taking a 5 minute rest break.  I'm not sure what the cost of an ignition switch is, but it may be (gas) money and time saved if I tell them to order me one and ship it and I will change it myself...but I don't want to void my warranty.

That sucks that you have to go so far. .. but yea ask them if they could order and ship to you.. maybe?? If not at least you have a warranty. You have nothing with other brands.

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Hi there, I suggest you strip down the bike and check and inspect every single connection, wire, and all switches. Top to bottom/front to rear. Molex connectors are some of the simplest and best connectors made. Most guys don't like them because they do require a certain amount of maintenance and attention when new. On both my 12 Beta and 05 KTM, I have not had one single electrical issue. One of the most important places to check is behind the headlight mask. I got mine bunched up and zip tied to prevent chafing. 

When I take delivery of my bikes one of the first things I do is check every single wire/connector, disassemble/inspect all switches and reroute the wires. I also use dielectric grease on all connections. Another trick some of the desert racers do is hot glue the wires going into the (molex) connections. I'm willing to bet is something very simple but buried in the harness. I will tell you it's very time consuming but well worth the effort for a trouble free electrical system down the road. While you're at it get some slack in the harness where it meets the subframe. This way you can simply swing the subframe out of the way for easy suspension maintenance.

The whole process including lubing chassis takes about 6-10 hrs. If you plan on pulling the motor then add a few more hrs. Being FI it's even more important.

This is a old pic but typical of what a serious owner does before hitting the trails. After the first time when new I do it once every few seasons on both bikes. Lots of zip ties to secure the wires.

59ab06fc0df0f_Image4.jpg.77f2c4622a03f6207dd35226b080f27e.jpg

100_3915.JPG.320d4f58dedaa0aa3b8d5a3d0e4a5aab.JPG

Here are the wires all being tied and tucked in nicely behind headlight. Note where they were rubbing. I thought they were out of the way! This is just after a few rides!! As stated you can hot glue the wires going into connectors. 100_3440.JPG.e32555cf9f1fbe7a8b03fc6111a90002.JPG

100_3463.JPG.2bf66860a6c71933f7f1e49ca82e7ab0.JPG

A lot of guys hate to hear this broken record of mine. Serious riders who are getting farther than hiking distance from bike should not rely on dealer prep alone. A full teardown, lube, inspection, torque, and reroute harness is very important for a happy owner. 

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3 hours ago, pacoalcracker said:

I always turn off the ignition.  After doing some checking with a multimeter this morning, it turns out the battery has better than a 75% charge so that is not the issue.  Called the dealer (Kissell) and the tech told me what to check for on the ignition switch.  Bad ignition switch.  Being under warranty, the dealer advised taking it there early next week to have it replaced.  Not too happy about it as it's a 2.5 hour drive one way, and for an ignition switch to fail after turning it on/off maybe 25 times total...is simply inexcusable.  Perhaps going forward, it may be better to NOT turn off the ignition switch if only taking a 5 minute rest break.  I'm not sure what the cost of an ignition switch is, but it may be (gas) money and time saved if I tell them to order me one and ship it and I will change it myself...but I don't want to void my warranty.

Your battery is at 75%?   Sounds like a bad battery.  What does 75% mean?  What are the volts?

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volts are 12.49, which is 75% charged and a good battery.  If it is lower than 12.24, or 50% then it needs charging and perhaps cell testing.  Mine is a Lithium Ion battery.  The issue is the ignition switch....it is bad as it should have 1 Ohm of resistance when it is turned to the on position but only had .2 Ohm, which is why the bike would not start after turning it off without a hint of issues all that day.  I am going to follow the advice of ballisticexchris though with the cleaning up of the wiring....it could use it.  Tomorrow I'm going to try a few things to get it running by bypassing the ignition switch so I can ride until I either get it to the shop or have them send me a new switch.  I don't want the entire holiday weekend to be a bust.  Bad enough I was off the bike for the past 10 weeks due to an illness.

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2 hours ago, pacoalcracker said:

volts are 12.49, which is 75% charged and a good battery.  If it is lower than 12.24, or 50% then it needs charging and perhaps cell testing.  Mine is a Lithium Ion battery.  The issue is the ignition switch....it is bad as it should have 1 Ohm of resistance when it is turned to the on position but only had .2 Ohm, which is why the bike would not start after turning it off without a hint of issues all that day.  I am going to follow the advice of ballisticexchris though with the cleaning up of the wiring....it could use it.  Tomorrow I'm going to try a few things to get it running by bypassing the ignition switch so I can ride until I either get it to the shop or have them send me a new switch.  I don't want the entire holiday weekend to be a bust.  Bad enough I was off the bike for the past 10 weeks due to an illness.

Hope you feel better.. :ride: being sick especially for a long time sucks..

Edited by hawaiidirtrider
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2 hours ago, hawaiidirtrider said:

Hope you feel better.. :ride: being sick especially for a long time sucks..

Why remind me! I'm in that situation right now. I'm lucky I'm even working! No riding until October for me.....

Edited by ballisticexchris
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Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I am having a similar problem with my 2016 500RS.

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1 hour ago, Chimmy90 said:

Did you ever figure out what the problem was? I am having a similar problem with my 2016 500RS.

i had the same problem on sunday , 350 2018 rr with 5 hours, battery just died after a 10 minutes stop, had to charge it at home.

 

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I'm guessing both of you were still able to kick or bump start the bikes?

My battery died soon after purchase.  Was gonna put a lighter battery in it anyways so I didn't sweat it.

Also had a random fuse blow once which happened.

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