Jump to content

Are kawis really this loud?

Recommended Posts

This noise is driving me crazy, some say its normal valvetrain noise on these bikes, I'm still not convinced..  

New kibblewhite valves, new athena piston and chain. Changed the valve clearance to IN 15/15 EX 20/20, to rule out the valves hitting the piston. Also changed to a new plug, tried the black coupler (richer?) and alkylate fuel to rule out detonation.

any other ideas or am I just stressing out over nothing? 

Bike has 70h on it.

Edited by Xlarge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I know right? Sounds like shit, my buddy has ha 2013 with the same noise. Have never experienced anything like this exept my old cr125 with bad crank bearing.

located the sound to the top end, might be the valves closing. But Damn! So &%$#@!ing loud? Once I started to give this noise some attention it just get louder and louder and now I cant focus on anything else 😂

Dont think sound fron the bottom end can travel so far up? (Put an extender to both the bottom and top end to locate where it comes from)

Might just have to live with this or maybe get back to those yellow bikes. Any others that can put their two cents on that "normal sound" theory? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Allright, I will have a check! change oil and filter every 5-7hours. You have any cool theories or are you thinking of the bottom end too?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Color of the bike makes no difference.  None of them should sound like that.  If it sounds like top end noise I suppose it could be a bad cam chain or weak tensioner.

This one sounds a little loose too but not as bad.  I would consider this to be more or less normal.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome to Kawasaki ownership!  :p

My 2016 KX450 sounds just the same - maybe a touch quieter as I'm all OEM internals.  First start up and after a valve adjust with only one out of spec.  Did you do the work yourself?  It wouldnt hurt to be 100% sure the valves are adjusted correctly - I've seen people mistake .10in and .10mm.

You could also use a screwdriver as an amplifier and see where the noise is the loudest by touching places on the bike (left side, right, clutch cover, cam chain tensioner, ect) and try and find the origin location of the noise to be sure.

Also while I agree that the color makes no matter - you do have different internals.  I know in some engines certain parts (forged pistons for example) make ticking noises and such that may not have been there with OEM equipment.

Edited by Thump_Stump
  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Cam chain is new and tensioner works fine, at least the chain has the correct up n down play. 

I Didnt install the valves myself, the previous owner did. I checked the valves and set to the higher spec yesterday and the sound is unchanged.

Turbo_Dan: Sounds pretty much the same, thing is that I really worked to get the "noise" on the video. But sure is noticable...

Done a couple of valvechanges myself, never heard anything like this (first kawi too) 

Bad valveguide? Heard of guides that crumbles on these bikes

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The seats can chip and crack off but I have not heard of guides failing.

It just doesn't sound like a valve to me.  That is more of a ticking/tapping.  I hear more of a knock.

Did you examine the bottom end or was it the previous owner put this motor together?  While it is apart for the top end you can get a pretty good idea of the condition of the bottom end.  If the rod was tight and the bearings were good I wouldn't worry about it.  If you bought this thing like this and the previous owner did the work I would definitely worry about it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Previous owner did all the bikework, he's an old racer and owns a workshop and an online store (hinson, hotcams, pro curcuit dealer) know how good they are at engines and suspension, and since he is a parts dealer... he made the shop stand for the parts. So I kind of trust his work.

But in the end, it might be worth it to split the cases and do a rebuild. Just to be safe and count that out.  Its around 350$ and a night in the garage. Even if I doubt that its the crank area and he said that the bottom felt nice and tight. 

Edited by Xlarge

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, Xlarge said:

Previous owner did all the bikework, he's an old racer and owns a workshop and an online store (hinson, hotcams, pro curcuit dealer) know how good they are at engines and suspension, and since he is a parts dealer... he make the shop stand for the parts. So I kind of trust his work.

But in the end, it might be worth it to split the cases and do a rebuild. Just to be safe and count that out.  Its around 350$ and a night in the garage. Even if I doubt that its the crank area and he said that the bottom felt nice and tight. 

Sound will be the same. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Thump_Stump said:

Welcome to Kawasaki ownership!  :p

My 2016 KX450 sounds just the same - maybe a touch quieter as I'm all OEM internals.  First start up and after a valve adjust with only one out of spec.  Did you do the work yourself?  It wouldnt hurt to be 100% sure the valves are adjusted correctly - I've seen people mistake .10in and .10mm.

You could also use a screwdriver as an amplifier and see where the noise is the loudest by touching places on the bike (left side, right, clutch cover, cam chain tensioner, ect) and try and find the origin location of the noise to be sure.

Also while I agree that the color makes no matter - you do have different internals.  I know in some engines certain parts (forged pistons for example) make ticking noises and such that may not have been there with OEM equipment.

Yeah, used an 1/4" socket extender and located the sound to the top end, in height of the valve seats. Might be the kibblewhite springs that is stiffer and amplifies the noise.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Xlarge said:

Yeah, used an 1/4" socket extender and located the sound to the top end, in height of the valve seats. Might be the kibblewhite springs that is stiffer and amplifies the noise.

turbo dan hears a knock; shurbitup and I just hear regular valve tick noise - but video audio isnt always the same as in person.  You did the noise origin test and found it in the valves, plus you've verified its in spec and there has been a change of components that could potentially change the sound - I'd say its normal.  

I think valve noise is "a kawi thing" that you learn to live with - plus I feel the newer engines are more noisy in general across all companies.  But Kawi seems to have always taken the cake for being the noisiest.

You're welcome to dig further into it, but personally it sounds great and I'd get out and ride! :ride:

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah it runs like a charm, fires up at first or second kick cold without "choke" and always first when hot.

This is more a thread for me to ventilate my thoughts as an old Nissan 180sx drifter (always listening for bad noises) this kind of sounds are driving me mad. 

But looks like its normal, might be detonation from bad ECU or a oil visc thing. 

Guess I just have to keep an extra ear open next time I take it to the track, if something was wrong, it would probable already been shot? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
27 minutes ago, Xlarge said:

Yeah it runs like a charm, fires up at first or second kick cold without "choke" and always first when hot.

This is more a thread for me to ventilate my thoughts as an old Nissan 180sx drifter (always listening for bad noises) this kind of sounds are driving me mad. 

But looks like its normal, might be detonation from bad ECU or a oil visc thing. 

Guess I just have to keep an extra ear open next time I take it to the track, if something was wrong, it would probable already been shot? 

Spend less time at idle - you'll hear funny engine sounds less this way. :D

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, shrubitup said:

Spend less time at idle - you'll hear funny engine sounds less this way. :D

True, the auto compression release is rpm controlled on my husky, sounds like a can of bolts at a low idle. 200 rpm higher, purrs just fine. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with:


×