Jump to content
NEGbrap

First Ride on 2018 Beta 300rr

Recommended Posts

2 minutes ago, shrubitup said:

Whatever that is.

In my case,
Metering oil into the intake at a rate determined by the TPS.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well Update 3?
Had a kid a kid this year, changed my whole riding situation lol. He is awesome though so not mad about that.

Put more hours on the bike. 

Couple things

  • Oil Injection is overrated. For quite some time I had suspected mine of over oiling, as my start ups no matter what the jetting were excessively smokey, even for a 2 smoke. Ended up taking the bike in and getting the dealer to check the bike. They didn't like that. Anywho Beta warranted a pump and the work. Much better now, but I only have one ride in since then. If it goes back to crap, I will request a OI removal kit free of charge. No way I am paying Beta for that. 9000 dollar bike, and your OI is inconsistent. BETA if your reading this, you def need work here bro's.
  • Motor is still fantastic. Tried powervalve flush, thing rips, tried powervalve stock, thing lugs. Pick your poison for the track. Might grab the spring set and try that. Bought a BEVY of needles, in the end I have stuck with factory and just changed the clip and A/S depending on temp. Main go 1-2 bigger on the main for the cold temps now. Runs much better when the OI is NOT over oiling the motor. FYI Sea level to 1000. New England. 90-45 degrees US!
  • Some bolts have developed rust? Even after cleaning/blowing/drying with towel. So might spec some better ones and swap them out.
  • I had the seat installed incorrectly for several rides, was wondering what the gap was. Apparently you need to press much harder than I had been to get the front to latches to catch. Felt stupid. Bike felt 1 inch lower after correctly installed, WOW! :facepalm:Stock seat is brutal on the ass, don't sit. Want something better, apprehensive about 200 dollar seats. Want to "borrow" one. LoL
  • Suspension
    • Was unhappy at first, with ride quality compared to YZ250X. Lots of stiction.
    • Aligned forks and wheel, retorqued at lower settings. Stiction gone, makes me nervous about initial wear on inners?
    • Front end feels rough in roots, generally great in everything else. Unfortunately what I ride is 75% rooty/rocky. Tried clickers, not much difference. Assumed undersprung
    • Got revalve, still feels similar although now my baseline is in the middle of the settings and can go much softer.  Tuner settings are good, not great, in almost everything. Definitely set to ride quickly. Front end has gobs of traction, rear is a little loose. Makes me think the balance is off? Unfortunately still harsh in roots, repeated square edge's. I want to be able to smash through these and FEEL the terrain but not get beat up as bad.
    • Tried going out on both rebound and comp, felt the same except more brake dive, and a little wallow/pogoy. Took rebound back in. Lost traction on front end, felt like it wanted to wash out. Went back to baseline from tuner.
    • Next steps, add more sag to keep the forks riding higher? (as told by tuner) Maybe the front and rear aren't balanced so the softer front is sagging, putting MORE weight on front causing the harshness. Can't be the springs as I haven't gained weight. Want to get this dialed before next season.
    • Rear end, traction a little loose, likes to pop off of small stuff. I can really launch the bike on small rocks and roots. Wondering if rebound is too fast and comp to hard causing it not absorb as much. Symptoms, doesnt squat under acceleration, a little loose, can spin the rear easily. Bike is like a coiled spring ready to launch off of whoops, hops a bit during braking bumps into corners at speed. Using tuners settings.
  • Rad's - for some reason rad fluid gets dirty fast? Flushed with fluid twice, but it stills gets murky. Will do a full tear down and pull them for winter and run a large amount of water through them. Someone mentioned something about the coating.

Everything else is great. Added some cute numbers with intention of riding, did not ride any Jday's or Netra's but hope to next year. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Well Update 3?
Had a kid a kid this year, changed my whole riding situation lol. He is awesome though so not mad about that.
Put more hours on the bike. 
Couple things
  • Oil Injection is overrated. For quite some time I had suspected mine of over oiling, as my start ups no matter what the jetting were excessively smokey, even for a 2 smoke. Ended up taking the bike in and getting the dealer to check the bike. They didn't like that. Anywho Beta warranted a pump and the work. Much better now, but I only have one ride in since then. If it goes back to crap, I will request a OI removal kit free of charge. No way I am paying Beta for that. 9000 dollar bike, and your OI is inconsistent. BETA if your reading this, you def need work here bro's.
  • Motor is still fantastic. Tried powervalve flush, thing rips, tried powervalve stock, thing lugs. Pick your poison for the track. Might grab the spring set and try that. Bought a BEVY of needles, in the end I have stuck with factory and just changed the clip and A/S depending on temp. Main go 1-2 bigger on the main for the cold temps now. Runs much better when the OI is NOT over oiling the motor. FYI Sea level to 1000. New England. 90-45 degrees US!
  • Some bolts have developed rust? Even after cleaning/blowing/drying with towel. So might spec some better ones and swap them out.
  • I had the seat installed incorrectly for several rides, was wondering what the gap was. Apparently you need to press much harder than I had been to get the front to latches to catch. Felt stupid. Bike felt 1 inch lower after correctly installed, WOW! :facepalm:Stock seat is brutal on the ass, don't sit. Want something better, apprehensive about 200 dollar seats. Want to "borrow" one. LoL
  • Suspension
    • Was unhappy at first, with ride quality compared to YZ250X. Lots of stiction.
    • Aligned forks and wheel, retorqued at lower settings. Stiction gone, makes me nervous about initial wear on inners?
    • Front end feels rough in roots, generally great in everything else. Unfortunately what I ride is 75% rooty/rocky. Tried clickers, not much difference. Assumed undersprung
    • Got revalve, still feels similar although now my baseline is in the middle of the settings and can go much softer.  Tuner settings are good, not great, in almost everything. Definitely set to ride quickly. Front end has gobs of traction, rear is a little loose. Makes me think the balance is off? Unfortunately still harsh in roots, repeated square edge's. I want to be able to smash through these and FEEL the terrain but not get beat up as bad.
    • Tried going out on both rebound and comp, felt the same except more brake dive, and a little wallow/pogoy. Took rebound back in. Lost traction on front end, felt like it wanted to wash out. Went back to baseline from tuner.
    • Next steps, add more sag to keep the forks riding higher? (as told by tuner) Maybe the front and rear aren't balanced so the softer front is sagging, putting MORE weight on front causing the harshness. Can't be the springs as I haven't gained weight. Want to get this dialed before next season.
    • Rear end, traction a little loose, likes to pop off of small stuff. I can really launch the bike on small rocks and roots. Wondering if rebound is too fast and comp to hard causing it not absorb as much. Symptoms, doesnt squat under acceleration, a little loose, can spin the rear easily. Bike is like a coiled spring ready to launch off of whoops, hops a bit during braking bumps into corners at speed. Using tuners settings.
  • Rad's - for some reason rad fluid gets dirty fast? Flushed with fluid twice, but it stills gets murky. Will do a full tear down and pull them for winter and run a large amount of water through them. Someone mentioned something about the coating.
Everything else is great. Added some cute numbers with intention of riding, did not ride any Jday's or Netra's but hope to next year. 

You did toss the OEM rubber, right????? If not do not be critical of the suspension......
  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
34 minutes ago, Mark-us-B said:


You did toss the OEM rubber, right????? If not do not be critical of the suspension......

Yea check my first posts. M59 with UHD tube up front around 10 psi, and a VE33 with Tubliss in the back 10-5 psi depending on trail.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, NEGbrap said:

Rada gets dirty fast? Flushed with fluid twice, but it stills gets murky. Will do a full tear down and pull them for winter and run a large amount of water through them. Someone mentioned something about the coating.

As a precaution I’d change out head o rings to those made for a KTM.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 hours ago, shrubitup said:

As a precaution I’d change out head o rings to those made for a KTM.

Yea will do, I read about that. Do you have any reference to the KTM equivalent head o ring? I'm debating getting the head cut for the squish too. How reliable are the factory heads in terms of proper squish?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
22 minutes ago, NEGbrap said:

Yea will do, I read about that. Do you have any reference to the KTM equivalent head o ring? I'm debating getting the head cut for the squish too. How reliable are the factory heads in terms of proper squish?

I'm pretty sure any O-rings for a pre '17 300 should work, pretty sure it some of the older bikes that had the O-ring issues. Don't know about the '18s, but it's probably like my '15 and any of the 300's...stock squish is in the .0070" range IIRC. Optimum is around .0040-.0045 range, lot's of room for improvement.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Sierra_rider said:

I'm pretty sure any O-rings for a pre '17 300 should work, pretty sure it some of the older bikes that had the O-ring issues. Don't know about the '18s, but it's probably like my '15 and any of the 300's...stock squish is in the .0070" range IIRC. Optimum is around .0040-.0045 range, lot's of room for improvement.

Thanks. I think I'm going to get the squish cut first for pump gas, and maybe down the road go RK Tek.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 minutes ago, NEGbrap said:

Thanks. I think I'm going to get the squish cut first for pump gas, and maybe down the road go RK Tek.

Don’t make rk decisions based on the published 30 day return period. He wouldn’t accept my return so I doubt he’s accepted others. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, NEGbrap said:

Thanks. I think I'm going to get the squish cut first for pump gas, and maybe down the road go RK Tek.

Having the stock head cut will yield the same results of going with an aftermarket head...maybe even better considering the the head will be cut for your exact specs. Although very small, different tolerances of cranks, cylinders, etc could lead to different squish numbers. Doesn't seem to be the case with the Beta's, but Yamaha's are well known for having wildly different squish numbers between different bikes. 

That being said, I might buy an S3 head, only to try different compression ratios.

EDIT: 

I never commented on it in my first post, but ditch the oil injection. It's a poorly made system that offers no performance advantages. It was purely designed for emissions compliance and possibly to test the waters for TPI further down the line. Too many reports of failure/issues to offset the ease of not having to mix fuel.

Edited by Sierra_rider
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
11 minutes ago, Sierra_rider said:

Having the stock head cut will yield the same results of going with an aftermarket head...maybe even better considering the the head will be cut for your exact specs. Although very small, different tolerances of cranks, cylinders, etc could lead to different squish numbers. Doesn't seem to be the case with the Beta's, but Yamaha's are well known for having wildly different squish numbers between different bikes. 

That being said, I might buy an S3 head, only to try different compression ratios.

EDIT: 

I never commented on it in my first post, but ditch the oil injection. It's a poorly made system that offers no performance advantages. It was purely designed for emissions compliance and possibly to test the waters for TPI further down the line. Too many reports of failure/issues to offset the ease of not having to mix fuel.

Yea I had the OI pump replaced. Let's see how it goes. I told the rep at BetaUSA that if it doesnt work, and continues to under perform I want that OI removal kit for free,.

  • Like 2
  • Helpful 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, Bermudacat said:

Did you use one of these?

Motion Pro Fork Alignment Tool

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0412

No I don't. I can see the advantage of that, but in my experience, the torque method and wheel bounce allow for a fully straight wheel. Same procedure as previous bike's I have owned and never had any of these harsh forks/stiction issues. Currently I have NO perceivable stiction. I think the valving is off. My tuner said I get one free revalve if I am not happy with the current valving........but if it doesnt perform it doesnt perform. And I am eating all the shipping cost.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I used to use the self align method until I tried the tool and found how far off my forks were. I checked other bikes as well and only one of three was close. I own and always use the tool now. With all the wear issues with Sachs its a no brainer IMO.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The Motion Pro fork alignment tool works well but doesn't really help in making sure that the forks parallel.  With my bike  on a stand I visually sight across the fork tubes from a side view to make sure they are parallel.

Edited by Chas_M

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 11/2/2018 at 6:06 AM, NEGbrap said:

And I am eating all the shipping cost.

That's why I use local even if it's a 90 minute drive I get to stop along the way and eat excellent Korean food in Tacoma. :banana:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×