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How long can I go on a rebuild if im only riding light woods for a couple hours week. 3? 4? Years. Its mainly tight twisty woods with the occasion hill and hauling it

 

Sent from my VS835 using ThumperTalk mobile app

 

 

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Tough one to answer because there are so many variables.  Step 1 is to read cover to cover through your owner's manual and follow it.

Next to that ... Sure, I will give it ago .... here is the answer "IT DEPENDS":

  • depends on your riding style
  • depends on the riding ambient conditions
  • depends on the length of the ride
  • depends on the intensity of the ride
  • depends on how in tune you are with your bike
  • depends on your maintenance practices
  • depends .... etc etc

The real answer is this.  Keep your bike clean, ride it often, keep up with the basic pre and post ride checks, pay attention to what the bike is telling you by how it is running how it sounds how it feels, do the manual prescribed routine maintenance such as: oil changes and valve clearance checks and valve wear checks, the periodic checks such as clutch pack wear, clutch basket wear, cam chain stretch, drive sprocket wear .....

Do all of those things and you will probably never have to "rebuild" it - because you will find and fix/replace critical components all along the way.  Now as far as the piston/rings go, you may just run those until one of three things happen which are:   very low and sluggish on power, OR a lot stink out of the exhaust and loosing oil and fouling plugs, OR starts nicely and runs well cold but once hot it runs like a pig and will not restart.

Based on what you described, I would but the thumb meter up on the calendar and say:

  • change the oil at 2 weeks interval, perhaps even weekly.  (Go by colour not time).  change the oil filter at 4 weeks interval
  • check and adjust your valve clearance 3 times a year.  In the spring AFTER your first ride, mid-summer, and after your late September/October ride.
  • pull the head, remove the valves and check valve and seat wear 1 once a year.  After your late September/October ride. replace cupped valves (est year 2)
  • replace the piston rings at 2 years interval.  After the 3rd set of rings replace the piston and rings and cylinder (year 6)
  • replace the clutch pack at 3 years interval
  • replace the coolant twice a year.  mid-summer and after your late September/October ride.

 

...as a start.  Really - it depends.

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Hey guys if I adjust my timing chain tension do I need to put it at top dead center first and then re time it afterward or can I just screw the adjuster until it stops chattering. I dont have the ability to pull the head off and am low on cash right now.

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12 hours ago, Zanestroud said:

Hey guys if I adjust my timing chain tension do I need to put it at top dead center first and then re time it afterward or can I just screw the adjuster until it stops chattering. I dont have the ability to pull the head off and am low on cash right now.

First off, there is no adjusting of the cam chain tensioner.  It is an auto tensioner with a spring and ratchet.  It is best to have the engine at TDC or BDC if you are going to mess with the chain, because you risk a chain sprocket jump which puts cams out of time and valves will soon contact the piston.

You do not need to remove the head to find TDC.  On the left side there are screw caps that are sight ports for timing marks.  The upper left small cap is where you look.  Take that cap out.  Turn over the engine very slowly.  There will be a spot on the flywheel with two marks very close together. The second of the two marks, the right one, is the TDC.  The other way to do it is to remove the gas tank, remove the spark plug, and put a long stick or screwdriver through the hole touching the top of the piston.  Rotate the engine to the stick being pushed upwards, the highest point is TDC.

Why do you think you need to adjust the cam chain tension?

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