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Crf 250r rear suspension linkage

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I'm having a hard time getting my bad bearings out of my shock link. I tried pressing them through with a socket like I did on my shock absorber but it's giving a fight. Upon inspection it looks like the casting may be raised in between the bearings. The service manual just simply says to "remove needle bearings" so I'm not getting much help there.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Leave the needle bearings in the cage with grease and possibly something to hold them in there. Then use a socket extension with a sharp edge and heat up the link first and pound out the bearing with a hammer, big open side of the socket extension against the bearing cage lip.  That's how I do mine since they can't press all the way through. I also just did a Kawasaki link like this and then afterwards realized that they could be pressed all the way through so that's a plus one for Kawasaki haha.

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thank you all for the suggestions, a friend of mine mentioned using a tig welder torch to heat up the bearing and after it will shrink and come out a bearing puller set will be next if that doesn't work tonight!

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Ya I found a vid that showed a dude who used a concrete anchor.

I got a couple of these from a hardware store for like $3 each and once they were expanded inside, added a little heat and they tapped right out.

First pics are HOW bad this was and I'm now doing a full rear suspension inspection yearly :)

20170409_133747.jpg.fd96c9e03765965b7aaeeb970c234e7b.jpg20170409_133814.jpg.ea0173836035cc0261f29841c7d9f808.jpg20170410_173419.jpg.971cfcd24be9d5465d631c776c97b3f9.jpg20170410_173527.jpg.9530ca92c706ecb06d6a6357e40aa96e.jpg

Then the anchor for the blind berarings.

20170411_200850.jpg.9301dbd93936e0c2eda0355a04a7061c.jpg

Edited by filterx
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Ya I found a vid that showed a dude who used a concrete anchor.
I got a couple of these from a hardware store for like $3 each and once they were expanded inside, added a little heat and they tapped right out.
First pics are HOW bad this was and I'm now doing a full rear suspension inspection yearly
20170409_133747.jpg.fd96c9e03765965b7aaeeb970c234e7b.jpg20170409_133814.jpg.ea0173836035cc0261f29841c7d9f808.jpg20170410_173419.jpg.971cfcd24be9d5465d631c776c97b3f9.jpg20170410_173527.jpg.9530ca92c706ecb06d6a6357e40aa96e.jpg
Then the anchor for the blind berarings.
20170411_200850.jpg.9301dbd93936e0c2eda0355a04a7061c.jpg

Yeah it's hard for me to believe how much of a pain it was to get the link bolt out. The one that has the chain roller. I had the sludge hammer out before it was said and done!

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10 minutes ago, germnation said:


Yeah it's hard for me to believe how much of a pain it was to get the link bolt out. The one that has the chain roller. I had the sludge hammer out before it was said and done!

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Ya PB Blaster is your friend.

Had the bike tilted over and held up and soaked a side with PB Blaster, let sit for about 12 hours, and repeated on the other side for BOTH that bolt and the main swing arm bolt and they both came out pretty easy with some light taps.

You can add heat to the chain roller bolt BUT not really to the swing arm bolt.

Are you doing the swing arm bolt, bushings etc cus if you have gotten this far IMO do it

Clipboard01.jpg.11dbc7f62d0872d64fb231c319b48466.jpg

 

Edited by filterx

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13 hours ago, Sofiedog said:

crackedIMG_2367.jpg

I full admit I neglected the whole rear (I posted a topic on my rebuild) and when I eventually noticed this crack, I got a new (used) shock arm, full Pivot Works rebuild kits. Got all the parts off the bike at my house BUT took them to a buddy's house with a full shop for the rebuild. Then really other than the concrete anchor for the blind bearings, propane torch, vise etc, IMO it really made it easier with 2 people doing everything.

Only issue I ran into was NOT getting the swing arm bearing etc pressed in enough the first time and they have to be installed correctly or the swing arm will not fit into the frame. Other than having to drive over to my buddy's shop it took a minute to press them in correctly.

 

 

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Ya I found a vid that showed a dude who used a concrete anchor.
I got a couple of these from a hardware store for like $3 each and once they were expanded inside, added a little heat and they tapped right out.
First pics are HOW bad this was and I'm now doing a full rear suspension inspection yearly
20170409_133747.jpg.fd96c9e03765965b7aaeeb970c234e7b.jpg20170409_133814.jpg.ea0173836035cc0261f29841c7d9f808.jpg20170410_173419.jpg.971cfcd24be9d5465d631c776c97b3f9.jpg20170410_173527.jpg.9530ca92c706ecb06d6a6357e40aa96e.jpg
Then the anchor for the blind berarings.
20170411_200850.jpg.9301dbd93936e0c2eda0355a04a7061c.jpg

Depending how often you wash your bike, and your practices of washing your bike, you may want to check them more frequently than yearly. If you use a pressure washer, it's really easy to get water past the seals therefore causing them to rust. I always try to scrub the linkage area with a brush and then rinse the area standing a ways away or just use a garden hose sprayer.
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20 hours ago, MotorMan1515 said:


Depending how often you wash your bike, and your practices of washing your bike, you may want to check them more frequently than yearly. If you use a pressure washer, it's really easy to get water past the seals therefore causing them to rust. I always try to scrub the linkage area with a brush and then rinse the area standing a ways away or just use a garden hose sprayer.

I live in the PNW and during the fall and winter I can ride through DEEP puddles and mud regularly :)

I do use an electric pressure washer BUT I always adjust the nozzle and avoid all the seals etc.

Otherwise, I bought the 05 used in 2010 and I'm 100% sure this was the first time the whole rear end had been taken apart in 11 years and as I posted, something I'm going to know going to pull apart and clean/ lube yearly.

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