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Rear Tire Keeps Spinning on Rim and Tearing Tube At Valve Stem

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Well title pretty much sums it up.. I have had 4 flats out of 7 times to the track with my 450.  Every single time it has been the same thing.. I get home, take off the tire, and find the valve stem has been ripped clean off the tube. I didn't have this issue until I replaced my rims with new tusk impact rims. I don't know what the problem is.. maybe the new rims are slicker than the old one and let the tire spin easier? I dunno.. but I'm sick of having flats. I never had this problem before. I thought maybe I wasn't tightening the rim lock well enough but this last time I tightened it so much that I damn near stripped the nut out, and still got a flat my first trip to the track... Was thinking about buying a bib mousse or installing a second rim lock because I am sick of this.. but I don't really want to do that. I never had to do that before. It's just getting real old changing tubes. Anybody had a problem like this? Suggestions?

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4 minutes ago, bosshoss333 said:

Good idea.. Didn't think about that...  I'm gonna try ordering a new one to see. Maybe the old rim was thinner. 

 

 

Rim locks are sized to rim width. Rim width is the distance between beeds, not the external width. The rim should be stamped with its' dimensions.

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Three fixes, in ascending order:
Make sure the rim lock is the correct size for your rim and tire bead thickness.
Install a second rim lock.
Install sheet metal screws thu the rim flange into the tire bead, but not into the tub.  I had to do that to a 500 when two rim locks didn't work.

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 Maybe your tire is going flat before it spins on the rim, check the new rim for any defects

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My Tusk rims do this as well on my 250. Haven't gotten any flats yet but the valvestem is Always crooked after riding. No matter how tight the rimlock. I use baby powder and windex when I change tires. Maybe it's a Tusk thing?

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And I'll add,

Rim Locks - I've recently started using the Motion Pro Blue rim locks (correct size) front/back rather than the OEM ones. Not cus I was having a problem with the tire rotating with the 1 OEM on the back BUT I found the Motion Pro ones are more durable. Now with that said, make sure to tighten the rim lock AFTER you have the tube inflated and bead set when changing the tire. Another thing is to NOT over tighten the Motion Pro ones. I do mine by feel and check after the first ride.

Tubes - I always use IRC IX Heavy tubes front/back at the back as low as 2ish PSI. A couple of rear tires a ago, I was rushing getting it on a flatted the tube with a tire iron. I normally have spares of the IRC but had to go buy another brand, took my time putting it on and first ride, ripped the valve out. Everything done the same and it was the first flat I've had riding in over 5 years.

Above is just my 2 cents

Also read a recent topic about how tight the valve nuts should be  on TT and I normally have one on each side of the rim and tight buy I believe the main point in that topic was to keep them loose. Maybe some can search and find that topic.

Otherwise we finally got some real rain for the first time it over 2 months and I'm going ripping :)

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And another thing. Most new tubes come with 2 valve stem nuts. A lot of folks will screw a nut down the stem and lock the stem to the rim. That's a bad idea.

Instead screw the nut up and lock it against the valve stem cap. Let the stem float in the rim hole. That way, it's a visual indicator to let you know if the tire is slipping on the rim. The stem will cock over at an angle when the tire slips on the rim, possibly letting you know in advance, before it gets severe enough to rip the stem out.

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my experience is the stem tips because the tube shifts, not the tire slipping. worse with heavy tubes and low psi. The stem gets rips after it goes flat from some other reason and you continue riding. YMMV

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5 hours ago, highmarker said:

my experience is the stem tips because the tube shifts, not the tire slipping. worse with heavy tubes and low psi. The stem gets rips after it goes flat from some other reason and you continue riding. YMMV

It can happen by both, especially when running low pressure. Either way, the stem cocking sideways is a visual indicator that it needs attention.

Edited by Trailryder42
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If you've been using the same tire every time, I 'd check it for something that's poking the tube and damage to the bead area.

It could be going flat while your riding then spinning or a damaged bead could cause it to slip on the rim.

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And another thing - I'd definitely use 2 rim locks with a 450.  Also re-tighten them a time or 2 after putting some time on them.

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A lot of good information here guys.. I ordered a new rim lock in the correct size. I'm gonna compare the two when the new one gets here. I been reading through all the comments. Thanks for all the help. I'll report back when the new rim lock gets here. Just looked at those Talon rim locks.. wishing I would have gotten one of those now. I went with a tusk only for the reason the my rims are tusk. 

Edited by bosshoss333

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And speaking of rim locks, I see plastic or some kind of composite construction available.  All my bikes have OE metal ones and I don't know if I'd buy a plastic one.

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