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74jimbo's engine build thread


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Look at Rockymountainatvmc.com.  Their Tusk products are inexpensive and seem to be a good quality. I can at least vouch for the Tusk chain breaker and the press tool. I haven't gotten anything Tusk that I haven't been impressed with especially for the price. 


I’ve sampled many a tusk product since the main warehouse is 5 minutes from my house, always been good products IMO
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never heard of engine dynamics, but will look into them. I do like they are in the bay area, but as you know, that menas they will just charge 3x everyone else, because hte bay area is expensive....


I found their prices quite reasonable, and their experience is impressive.
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On 9/11/2017 at 4:48 PM, ohiodrz400sm said:


The shops I talked to were in Utah, Iowa and Florida. Fast Heads, Advantage Cycle and Meyers Racing.

Sent from my XT1650 using ThumperTalk mobile app
 

I use fastHeads, APE, and soon Meyers Racing.

Service is about $150, then plus parts.
Guides are not normally needed unless tons of hours, or physical damage.
I always do valves, seals, springs and locks on every head I have serviced. Ti Tops as needed for different springs or upon request, guides and new seats as needed. 
Ferrera Valves

R&D springs and tops

OEM locks and seals 

Seats .....Meyers has a material he is using Ive not seen or used, so I'm going to try that as he has had great service from it. 
 

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1 hour ago, 0macman0 said:

 


I found their prices quite reasonable, and their experience is impressive.

 

Engine Dynamics has been in the game a long time... Ive used them to repair cam journal carnage...and had ok work.. Ive seen them used for combustion chamber damage repair and its been both great to "what 13 year old with his dads tool set did that" 
Id still use them in a heart beat...... but with the understanding, don't return it looking like it was welded up and hand cut back to shape with a Harbor freight electric wood carving tool. 

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Engine Dynamics has been in the game a long time... Ive used them to repair cam journal carnage...and had ok work.. Ive seen them used for combustion chamber damage repair and its been both great to "what 13 year old with his dads tool set did that" 
Id still use them in a heart beat...... but with the understanding, don't return it looking like it was welded up and hand cut back to shape with a Harbor freight electric wood carving tool. 


I’ve had the combustion chamber repair your described from a local machinist in my area. If it’s any consolation, it is functional. ?
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  • 2 weeks later...

super sloooooooowwwwwww....... Just ordered the ABN Universal Clutch Hub Holding Tool for Replacing Hub & Basket to Change Belt on Motorcycle, ATV, UTV, Quad, Dirt Bike

the description is weird to me, but the picture looks just like the more expensive Pit Posse and the Tusk -- looks like a big set of vice grips

 

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On 9/19/2017 at 3:08 PM, ontheroad68 said:

Following, as I am considering a 462 build myself. My question: if you go +4 on the crank what do you do to + that and keep the CR correct? Meaning, do you ad a 4mm spacer at the base of the cylinder? or do they make "stroker pistons" with the pin in a different location?

 

Also, if you're going to split the case, ad those ACT gears, you won't regret it.

On a 94mm bore, a 3 layer base gasket will keep you at a 11.3 CR. A +4mm stroker on top of that will increase it, and as far as I know, it isn't common to add more spacers to reduce the CR. 

Way back when, people used to do +5mm strokers that required a 4 layer spacer and a cylinder spacer for clearance on the rod angle if i'm not mistaken. No such issue on the +4mm.

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On 9/15/2017 at 4:46 AM, 74jimbo said:

tim, eventually, I will upgrade the carb, but right now, it isn't going to happen.... already pinching pennies to get this back and running, and larger jets will be just fine for now

If cost is an issue, a CVK40 swap is a good upgrade for not too much money. I've got it on now, but after I build out my 462, I'm planning on bumping up to a FCR41. 

Whenever you get to the point where you want to swap out the carb, and feel like the CVK40 might be a route you want to go, lmk. It'd be the perfect excuse for me to drop the $$$ to buy the FCR. 

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22 minutes ago, 74jimbo said:

ok, cancelled the clutch tool, might get it later on again, who knows, but I can get other things in the meantime

Just remember when you're reassembling and trying to torque everything down to spec, you'll still need the clutch tool. 

If you're gonna just use an impact driver, pneumatic might be enough to get the enough torque gun. Not sure about an electric/manual one though.

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Doh! Amazon is going to hate me, lol

 

As far as the impact, my friend helping me has a 220v, 60 gal compressor and decent impact tools I'm sure.... even my cheapie HF electric impact is rated over 200 ft/lbs

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1 minute ago, 74jimbo said:

Doh! Amazon is going to hate me, lol

 

As far as the impact, my friend helping me has a 220v, 60 gal compressor and decent impact tools I'm sure.... even my cheapie HF electric impact is rated over 200 ft/lbs

Taking it off is no problem. I meant for putting it back on without bothering to torque down to spec and without a clutch holder tool.

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  • 1 month later...

ok, so it has been awhile.....

looking to possibly get my head sent off to Meyers and see what they say.....

and wanting opinions on the hot rods stroker crank....

I know, I know, free advice on the interwebz is worth what I paid for it.... but... I have seen some people say the hot rods crank is good to go, and others say it blew up on them.... 

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13 hours ago, 74jimbo said:

ok, so it has been awhile.....

looking to possibly get my head sent off to Meyers and see what they say.....

and wanting opinions on the hot rods stroker crank....

I know, I know, free advice on the interwebz is worth what I paid for it.... but... I have seen some people say the hot rods crank is good to go, and others say it blew up on them.... 

I've been running my 462 for a while (vertex 94mm piston, 3 layer base gasket, e cams, and +4mm stroker). No issues to speak of about 900 miles in past break in period. As long as you install it correctly with the right tools (crank installer/puller), then you should be fine. Go through the microfiche as well as follow the factory service manual disassembly instructions in reverse order to make sure you don't miss out on the various washers, spacers, and fasteners, and you'll do just fine.

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Got to ride a suzuki quadsport today.... looks just like my drz. Even has what appears to be a rs3 exhuast like mine, it is a yoshi, but it has different markings. The end pipe tip is the same. Was pretty cool. Just the hand controls are all in a different place. No turn signals, starter on the left, some weird slider on the left, parking brake on the left, and has a reverse switch on the right fender

 

So, there is also a kawi that I have been riding, same quad, with a thumb throttle, and it's green. I like it a lot more.

 

Apparently, the white one with the yosh is a hot rod, and my ex's boss is going to take it off the ranch soon. Did I mention my ex bro in law put that one through a fence yesterday?

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