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74jimbo's engine build thread


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So.... As I am still a newbie, and keep necroposting, I decided to make my own engine build thread. where I can post my experience, experiment, and ask questions pertaining to my build...

To start, I seized my piston.... I am going to be rebuilding my own engine, making a Big Bore and a Stroker crank to a 470. I will be using the stock 36 BSR Mikuni carb, re-jetter with a James Dean kit. I ride around sea level, in the San Francisco bay area. I am a large guy around 265 lbs, maybe more, with gear and stuff.

I have started accumulating parts for this build, very slowly....

So far:

The TT Galfer BOGO deal (silver fittings, blue lines, front and rear, and Galfer front and rear brake pads) (ordered already, but not in my hands)

JT Sprockets JTF432.15SC 15T Steel Front Sprocket

JT Sprockets JTR808.41 41T Steel Rear Sprocket

JT Sprockets JTC520X1R2150DL Steel 150-Link Heavy Duty X-Ring Drive Chain (520 X1R2) (will need to cut this down, it was an amazing deal! $22.54)

 

MSR Hard Parts 25-4025 Msr Counter Shaft Kit

Pit Posse PP2732 Flywheel Rotor Magneto Puller Tool 38mmX1.5 RH Female Suzuki

Maxima Racing Oils AFR-3403-00 ProFilter Ready-To-Use Air Filter

G-Plus Blue Silicone Radiator Hose Kit + Clamps

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I will be re-doing the the stator and starter loctite fix, as well as the loctite counter shaft fix

not sure on the MCCT yet

For the BB, not sure what brand yet, but probably CW, not sure on piston yet.

the more I read, people are saying I must have an FCR41, shouldn't go with the stroker crank, should only do a BB, this, that, etc.... AGH!!!!!!!!!! I have a stock head with stock valves, at this time, they are not being replaced, or taken apart -but I will clean them up externally with carb cleaner

I think my con rod bearing is also bad, that is why I want to replace it with a new bottom end

I will be doing the rebuild myself (a friend with a press may be helping me, he is foreign to motorcycles, but mechanically inclined)

I do daily ride this bike (or will) Routinely on the freeway and city streets. I have gotten up to 95 mph, but I know, probably shouldn't do high RPMs for extended periods of time

Not sure what best coolant to put back in, however, I will be using something with distilled water, in a mix (would really prefer a pre-mix, but not sure there is any out there specifically for a motorcycle, as I know car stuff isn't correct)

Plan to use the full synthetic Suzuki oil from the dealership

I do have a 3x3 mod, and a full Yoshi RS3

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Mate if your going to that length i suggest u go over your cylinder head thoroughly!! take a look at this $3000 DRZ i picked up for $500 because it had dropped a valve and smashed the engine to pieces mind u this bike was in the shop 3.5 months ago for new valves the shop only replaced the intake valves and didn't even touch the exhaust valves and u bet cha one of the exhaust valves snapped!

first pic is what is left of the piston, you can see the compression piston ring hanging out the top

second pic is the cylinder head where the snapped valve just pounded it

third and fourth pic 2 holes in the cylinder wall

fifth pic shows the bottom of the cylinder missing

please do check those valves man i would hate for this to happen to you and your bike! even have a shop do a basic service on the cylinder head just a basic check and clean

 

 

 

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74 that is just like having 4 bald tires on your car and only replacing 3 mate that 4th one will eventually give way, what I'm saying is if you have your engine a part and your rebuilding everything else why would u not service the head while your at it just because it works doesn't mean its not on its way out and when a head lets lose u see the destruction in my pictures it just doesn't stop working it completely totals the engine all it takes is 1 worn valve to stick in the valve guide and bingo

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Does anyone know of a LEGIT machine shop capable of taking the head apart and checking it over? Herre is what I don't want... I take it somewhere and htey say, ofh it all needs to be replaced, please pay $1500......
I have talked to 3 different shops, it's between $350-$400 to re-cut the seats and rebuild with Ferrea valves.

Sent from my XT1650 using ThumperTalk mobile app

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The problem is you are in ohuo, and I am in the SF Bay Area. None of the local shops work on motorcycles, and the shops that do, wont touch internals. But they are happy to sell you a brand new OEM from the factory...... Also, everything costs more out here....

 

Honestly, I should probably scrap this bike, and get something like a KLR 650

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The problem is you are in ohuo, and I am in the SF Bay Area. None of the local shops work on motorcycles, and the shops that do, wont touch internals. But they are happy to sell you a brand new OEM from the factory...... Also, everything costs more out here....
 
Honestly, I should probably scrap this bike, and get something like a KLR 650

The shops I talked to were in Utah, Iowa and Florida. Fast Heads, Advantage Cycle and Meyers Racing.

Sent from my XT1650 using ThumperTalk mobile app

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For this situation, yes. I don't have the time to mess around with it.. I work weird hours, and can't get to the Post Office, nor do I have time to screw around with shipping

 

I also know how much stuff gets damaged or lost while shipping

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10 hours ago, HansLanda said:

You're not interested in doing this yourself? 

doing what myself? checking for square? decking/grinding the mating surface? valve seats, inspecting the valves?!

Edited by 74jimbo
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