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Is the carb safe to dunk in cleaner?

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Just bought a 2002 wr250f and the carb is disgusting. I've disassembled it as per the Clymer manual (I know, I know). I know not to dunk the throttle position sensor but it seems there's other plastic/rubber parts other than that that would require further advanced dissasembly.

Would it be alright to just submerge the bottom half of the throat and below? Or would I miss out on cleaning vital nooks and crannys?

Thanks 

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No, you cannot soak it in caustic cleaner. You, also cannot safely take the carb fully apart as resealing it is not a 'home mechanic' repair. If the carb is really bad, pony upi the money and have a pro do it. If there are no real experts near you, places like James Dean Jetting can take care of you.

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No no no no no! Take it apart before you clean it. The slide is two pieces and the seals will swell up until they are ruined and the slide will stick bad. It's not that bad too take apart, anyone could do it just be clean and organized.

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I should clarify, the only plastic pieces left attached are the throttle position sensor, the accelerator pump adjuster, and the tiny wheels that attach the throttle body to the slide (not the bigger ones on the slide itself).

 

I think I'm going to dip the whole thing (except the TPS) in Pine Sol for an hour and see how well that works. 

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I should clarify, the only plastic pieces left attached are the throttle position sensor, the accelerator pump adjuster, and the tiny wheels that attach the throttle body to the slide (not the bigger ones on the slide itself).
 
I think I'm going to dip the whole thing (except the TPS) in Pine Sol for an hour and see how well that works. 


I would remove the TPS if you are going to dunk it, and do not dunk the slide.

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I used the Pine Sol method, and it worked wonders.


To me it just sounds funny but I haven't tried it. I have used the Yamalube dip before. It won't hurt the rubber.

If you pull the TPS, you will need to recalibrate it with a multimeter. It's not hard but just be aware.

Sent from my XT1650 using ThumperTalk mobile app

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1 hour ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

 


To me it just sounds funny but I haven't tried it. I have used the Yamalube dip before. It won't hurt the rubber.

If you pull the TPS, you will need to recalibrate it with a multimeter. It's not hard but just be aware.

Sent from my XT1650 using ThumperTalk mobile app
 

 

I'll look into the Yamalube. Thanks for the info on the TPS, I was really hesitant to touch it.

 

So while cleaning the carb the throttle arm slid out a bit since it was no longer attached to the slide, as in it seemed to slide a bit away the TPS. Should I be worried or does it only need to be recalibrated if removed at the mount? 

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I'll look into the Yamalube. Thanks for the info on the TPS, I was really hesitant to touch it.
 
So while cleaning the carb the throttle arm slid out a bit since it was no longer attached to the slide, as in it seemed to slide a bit away the TPS. Should I be worried or does it only need to be recalibrated if removed at the mount? 


If the shaft only slid a little than you shouldn't need to calibrate it.

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I have cleaned a number of these cabs in carb cleaner gotten from Walmart for about $16.00 with success.  That being said I only do it if the bike is in good condition and there is a idling problem or it will not start.  If it will only run with the choke on then the low speed circuit is clogged, and it need to be cleaned.  Part of the disassembly is tricky.  Take the slide out remove all the component in the bowl, then look at the roof of the bowl their are four or five torque or even security torque head screws, they must be removed. you will end up with two pieces when you separate the screwed together parts.  Now is the tricky part their is a thin rubber gasket that must be carefully removed and not damaged at all and set aside.  Now the carb is ready to be partially submerged in cleaning solution.  Wire up the idle screw hose and the TPS wire you do not have to remove these.  The carb is submerged in the cleaning fluid to just above the bottom of the carb bore no further, let it soak for half of a hour or so. I use a half inch wide of thin sheet metal strip run thru the bore to hold the carb in the right position in the gallon can supplied with the car cleaner. Then take it out and blow out all the passages with compressed air, then rinse the carb in water and blow it dry.  The next tricky part is putting the rubber gasket back.  I use very small amounts of Locktight Master Gasket to hold the rubber gasket in place upon reassembly.  Locktight the torque screws with a small amount of blue locktight and reassembile the carb.  If you damage the gasket I have now seen kits on ebay that carry the gasket.  Only do this if the conditions I explained earlier exist about idling etc.  Because if you screw it up you may have to buy a new carb.  Any questions contact me.

Rocky

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On 9/18/2017 at 7:26 AM, Rockyracer said:

I have cleaned a number of these cabs in carb cleaner gotten from Walmart for about $16.00 with success.  That being said I only do it if the bike is in good condition and there is a idling problem or it will not start.  If it will only run with the choke on then the low speed circuit is clogged, and it need to be cleaned.  Part of the disassembly is tricky.  Take the slide out remove all the component in the bowl, then look at the roof of the bowl their are four or five torque or even security torque head screws, they must be removed. you will end up with two pieces when you separate the screwed together parts.  Now is the tricky part their is a thin rubber gasket that must be carefully removed and not damaged at all and set aside.  Now the carb is ready to be partially submerged in cleaning solution.  Wire up the idle screw hose and the TPS wire you do not have to remove these.  The carb is submerged in the cleaning fluid to just above the bottom of the carb bore no further, let it soak for half of a hour or so. I use a half inch wide of thin sheet metal strip run thru the bore to hold the carb in the right position in the gallon can supplied with the car cleaner. Then take it out and blow out all the passages with compressed air, then rinse the carb in water and blow it dry.  The next tricky part is putting the rubber gasket back.  I use very small amounts of Locktight Master Gasket to hold the rubber gasket in place upon reassembly.  Locktight the torque screws with a small amount of blue locktight and reassembile the carb.  If you damage the gasket I have now seen kits on ebay that carry the gasket.  Only do this if the conditions I explained earlier exist about idling etc.  Because if you screw it up you may have to buy a new carb.  Any questions contact me.

Rocky

That sounds really complicated.  Remove slide and bowl, spray carb cleaner in all passages until it comes out of the other end, don't spray the slide, reassemble.  done.

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