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Here are a few thing you can do to keep your Rekluse Core 3 in good working order. At about 100hrs I noticed a little bit more lurching than usual. I also was having to adjust my free play gain more often. I was getting a whole bunch of high speed slip on long 200+ mile rides.

My settings were all 6 soft engagement springs and the heaviest wedges in the drive plate. I was also running all 6 heavy blue pressure plate springs. I ran this combination for a few seasons. My free play gain was set at a little over 1/4 inch. I unfortunately got caught up in Jeff Slavens/Jimmy Lewis's videos that running soft engagement springs/heavy wedges and more free play gain is the way to go. 

I just changed out the teflon pads on my almost worn out drive plate, installed 6 hard blue engagement springs, and 6 super heavy green pressure plate springs. Also set the free play gain to a bit under 1/4". What a huge difference! No more clutch drag and the clutch engages really hard and tight. If you want to experiment with harder than stock blue pressure plate springs, you can just slip a spark plug washer on top of the spring for a little more preload.

For those of you that worry about engine braking with the heavy engagement springs, it's a simple adjustment. Just set the idle screw a little higher for engine braking. It works really good before hitting the hard core trails where you like engine braking or if you are simply too worn out to modulate the brakes. When you set the idle low the bike has almost zero lurching at a stop and will freewheel when throttle is chopped. I actually like the freewheel setting the best on the 4T Beta when swapping from bike to bike with my 300 2T.

Rekluse did not have the specs on the teflon pads. Here are the measurements before and after. The old pads were just at the point of a few of the wedges rubbing metal to metal.

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This is before putting all the green super heavy pressure plate springs in. I used 3 green and 3 blue with spark plug washers. It was just ok. All 6 green springs is the way to go! A little harder clutch pull but no more wimpy soft engagement. IMO the clutch works a lot closer to a stock one now. I no longer race but would have no problem putting this setup against a stock clutch at a dead start H&H. The green springs make that much of a difference!

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Rekluse clutch settings are very subjective from rider to rider. This is what's working for me. I would highly suggest that anyone with a Rekluse try as many different settings as possible to find the sweet spot that works best for them. There are dozens of different settings you can try. 

I have all new fibers and a new "take off" Rekluse drive plate, weights, and springs ready to go in when the new basket comes in.

Edited by ballisticexchris
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Hmmm, I thought the light engagement springs and heavy wedges basically gave you a slipper clutch that feels stock. Is that not true?

Edited by LSHD

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Heavy exp springs = higher engagement point. So you are actually slipping more at low rpms. For instant engagement you want light exp springs, heavy wedges

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Hmmm, I like a higher engagement and less slip, quicker harder engagement.  I've been running all blue springs and didn't know about the greens, will get some coming.  I still have the stock wedges so maybe heavier wedges as well. 

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1 minute ago, Danceswithtrees said:

Hmmm, I like a higher engagement and less slip, quicker harder engagement.  I've been running all blue springs and didn't know about the greens, will get some coming.  I still have the stock wedges so maybe heavier wedges as well. 

Yes the heavy wedges will give a really hard engagement. They overcome the heavier drive plate springs at a lower rpm than the light ones. Reason I got the green pressure plate springs was to add to the hard engagement. It works pretty darn good for me. And the added benefit of the bike freewheeling like a 2T is a big plus. Consequently the engine braking is fully adjustable with a quick turn of the idle screw.

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15 minutes ago, ballisticexchris said:

Yes the heavy wedges will give a really hard engagement. They overcome the heavier drive plate springs at a lower rpm than the light ones. Reason I got the green pressure plate springs was to add to the hard engagement. It works pretty darn good for me. And the added benefit of the bike freewheeling like a 2T is a big plus. Consequently the engine braking is fully adjustable with a quick turn of the idle screw.

No idle screw on my bike, do it all with software now.  But yeah going to try your setup it sounds like what I like.

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Hmmm, I like a higher engagement and less slip, quicker harder engagement.  I've been running all blue springs and didn't know about the greens, will get some coming.  I still have the stock wedges so maybe heavier wedges as well. 

 What you said is the opposite of how it works. If you like higher engagement you will get more slip through the lower rpm range. The heavy exp springs, which I have tested, slip noticeably more when lugging the bike as there is more resistant in opening the exp.   

 

The light / low engagement springs hook up quicker at a low rpm.

 

 

 

 

 

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As a casual mechanic type it'd be nice to see a chart of what the different springs, wedges, etc do. Does something like that exist? I haven't seen anything like it.

If you've got quick engagement I suppose you'd just use good ole fashioned manual clutch work in situations where slipping would be good.

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As a casual mechanic type it'd be nice to see a chart of what the different springs, wedges, etc do. Does something like that exist? I haven't seen anything like it.
If you've got quick engagement I suppose you'd just use good ole fashioned manual clutch work in situations where slipping would be good.


That is exactly correct. I still use my clutch lever 95% of the time. So having the quick engagement is what I want. That said, the rekluse does still slip off idle, just not as much.

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1 hour ago, Marylander said:

As a casual mechanic type it'd be nice to see a chart of what the different springs, wedges, etc do. Does something like that exist? I haven't seen anything like it.

If you've got quick engagement I suppose you'd just use good ole fashioned manual clutch work in situations where slipping would be good.

LOW = Low RPM Engagement, HIGH = High RPM engagement

Heavy wedges = later disengagement (lower RPMs) and less slipping during engagement

59bbf69ac5665_RekluseSpirngs_Page_13.thumb.jpg.288a1bd4e5649c5292c9706fb8171411.jpg

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2 hours ago, LSHD said:

LOW = Low RPM Engagement, HIGH = High RPM engagement

Heavy wedges = later disengagement (lower RPMs) and less slipping during engagement

Cool, thanks! I'll keep this in mind. I don't have enough hours with the rekluse in the beta yet, just a couple short rides. I wore out the bases on an exp 2.0 in my kx250 though. I would've like to have had more snap with that bike for sure (the motor is very snappy but the default setup rekluse took all of that away).

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Has anyone had all the fiber friction pads come off.

Both sides are gone with the missing ones  chewed up in the gearbox.

The original Beta friction fiber plates are still in excellent condition after 200 plus hours. Cant say the same thing for the Rekluse after 12 hours.

 

IMG_8148.JPG

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Has anyone had all the fiber friction pads come off.
Both sides are gone with the missing ones  chewed up in the gearbox.
The original Beta friction fiber plates are still in excellent condition after 200 plus hours. Cant say the same thing for the Rekluse after 12 hours.
 
IMG_8148.JPG.3d88533c06397bb0705f93854a2e7614.JPG

Mine started slipping , pulled it apart, fibers looked ok, 1/2 the steels are blue, one side of the rekluse has all it's frictions the other side only has 1 1/2 left by on it.

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Has anyone had all the fiber friction pads come off.
Both sides are gone with the missing ones  chewed up in the gearbox.
The original Beta friction fiber plates are still in excellent condition after 200 plus hours. Cant say the same thing for the Rekluse after 12 hours.
 
IMG_8148.JPG.3d88533c06397bb0705f93854a2e7614.JPG


Holy crap. That's the first I've seen. I'd imagine Rekluse will definitely help you out on that one. Their service is typically top notch.
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Had it happen to mine. Rekluse took care of me. They said they had a batch where the bonding process wasn't done properly. They shipped out a new set of outer rings to where I was in Arkansas and I had them with time to install and ride before the next weekend came.

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On ‎9‎/‎16‎/‎2017 at 7:44 AM, Jall opy said:

Has anyone had all the fiber friction pads come off.

Both sides are gone with the missing ones  chewed up in the gearbox.

The original Beta friction fiber plates are still in excellent condition after 200 plus hours. Cant say the same thing for the Rekluse after 12 hours.

 

I Had this happen to my 350rr as soon as I got it. 2 years ago. Rekluse completely replaced it.

 

 

Edited by TwinSparXR

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They cost AU$240 retail to get them replaced here in Australia.

I hope the new ones dont come off.

But I will be checking  at the next oil change .

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Just an update on the new pair of friction discs I purchased.

 

I have done less than 400kms on them and the Rekluse Core became horrible to disengage at idle, terrible dragging, adjustment didnt seem to help

 

Pulled the clutch cover off and lo and behold the friction pads have come unstuck again and fouled the wedges etc..

Not happy at all 

Rekluse should of had a recall on that bad batch of discs where the bonding failed, pfttt

This time I hope they will  replace them for free. But NOT with another pair from the bad batch with the failed bonding.

I will keep you updated on this failed Rekluse Core again.

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