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Which one should I pull the trigger on?

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Hey!

Used to be a DR650 owner and am moving to the DRZ. I really like the supermoto's. There are a few floating around CL that have got my attention and I really need help on which I should pull the trigger on. Little background; my last bike (DR650) was heavily converted and modified into a flat tracker. While, I thought it was cool at the time once I dove into it I realized the wiring had been messed with and a bunch of one off parts that just made it a headache and wanted to go to a more "Stock" bike. 

 

Bike #1: $2500
Bare bone stock except the exhaust system which was upgraded with FMF. Has the lowest miles of the lot, but has no SM rims which would cost $1000 at least for the conversion. Cheapest of them all as well $ wise. Oldest of the lot.

https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2002-suzuki-drz-400-dual/6299362297.html

 

Bike #2: $3000

S model with 17's and a few other tasty bits including exhaust. Newest year with decent miles. Also has a BB kit.

https://cincinnati.craigslist.org/mcy/d/drz400/6253967261.html

 

Bike #3: $3000
SM model from the factory with inverted forks and all. Has the most done to, which can be good and bad. Has the most miles of them all.
https://dayton.craigslist.org/mcy/d/2006-drz400sm/6247981413.html

 

What I want is a supermoto but I also want to hooligan around on and off road. I want the confidence on the road to really get low and pop dank whoolies. Or learn to.... But, if I want to take it off some light trails I want that as well. Thoughts, comments, concerns? Whatever one I end up with I hope to hang around and learn a lot about SM, bikes, and the DRZ in general.

Have a good one!

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FYI I just saw the What BIke should I buy sub-forum. Apologizes for not posting this there!

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See if #2 has the 21/18 rims collecting dust.  Everyone gets a woody for Supermoto, but they always want the dirt option.  S is the best way to go if both sets of rims are available.  If not, some one is always posting rims in the classifieds.  Also check PTgarcia's posts on alternative 125/250 rims.  Nobody makes a 310 to 250mm caliper bracket for SM bikes.

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19 minutes ago, 38super said:

See if #2 has the 21/18 rims collecting dust.  Everyone gets a woody for Supermoto, but they always want the dirt option.  S is the best way to go if both sets of rims are available.  If not, some one is always posting rims in the classifieds.  Also check PTgarcia's posts on alternative 125/250 rims.  Nobody makes a 310 to 250mm caliper bracket for SM bikes.

He doesn't have the dirt oem's; but I figured it would always be cheaper and more accessible to find a pair of dirt out there than SM. And the brake calipers brings a good point. Looks like I'd be better with the S model after all..

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I own an S for commuting and fun rides, after squirming around wet turns I did the hooligan mod (sportbike rims) just to get decent rubber for wet roads.  Tires are designed for a target bike weight and use.  Since a DRZ is usually a 100 to 150lb lighter, the tire will never warm up and posted inflation pressure is too high (which can lead to much excitement at the limit).   Shinko 244s will work for dirt on 17s (except deep sand and mud), check out 150RON's posts

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I am leaning toward #2 based on it alreay has SM, beating out #1 and has the option to convert to dirt with a second set of rims, beating out #3.

But, I want to be swayed! Those of you suggesting #3 lets get reasons why!

Edited by Mixar

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I'd say 3. Something I always take into consideration with Craigslist is the amount of info they're willing to put on their ads and the number of pictures. He's got plenty of both. It looks clean and got plenty of goodies on there (not sure about that exhaust tho I've never seen a fmf like that:/ looks more like a Delkevic). He's also got the MCCT done so that means he was aware of reliability issues which is a plus. 1st one is nice also but then you have to get yourself a set of SM rims so that's more work and more money. 

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3 minutes ago, Bm1997 said:

I'd say 3. Something I always take into consideration with Craigslist is the amount of info they're willing to put on their ads and the number of pictures. He's got plenty of both. It looks clean and got plenty of goodies on there (not sure about that exhaust tho I've never seen a fmf like that:/ looks more like a Delkevic). He's also got the MCCT done so that means he was aware of reliability issues which is a plus. 1st one is nice also but then you have to get yourself a set of SM rims so that's more work and more money. 

True that, after contacting #2 I've asked questions and for more pictures. Apparently the guy before him did all the mods and owns a stable of them.

 

Considering #1 for the blank canvas. But, really have to drop serious coin for conversion down the road.

 

If #3 can't get a set of 18/21 swapped in will I be disappointed with 17's? I haven't fully experienced either to know which I prefer the most. Hence the option of both was enticing. Although, I see SM's go off-road with their street tires. My main concern on #3 is the highest number of miles plus what if this guy has really made it "unique" with all of his mods making it a headache if I want to switch anything out and around, which was my last problem with my last bike.

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The SM has nicer rims than the S has from the factory. If I wasn't mostly dirt i would have preferred to dirt the SM, but the initial cost + rims swayed me to the S.

 

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7 hours ago, 38super said:

 Nobody makes a 310 to 250mm caliper bracket for SM bikes.

Couldn't I just use the 310 on the 21"? Or would that cause issues ?

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Concerning #3, he must of crashed it good because that's an 07 fuel tank and shrouds.

 

He also doesn't have the case saver on. I've learned over the years that simple piece tells you alot about the own maintenance practices, understanding and attention to detail.

 

I would be a little wary and examine that bike very closely.

 

 

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3 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

Concerning #3, he must of crashed it good because that's an 07 fuel tank and shrouds.

 

He also doesn't have the case saver on. I've learned over the years that simple piece tells you alot about the own maintenance practices, understanding and attention to detail.

 

I would be a little wary and examine that bike very closely.

 

 

In it he mentions he pulled a lot off another DRZ; maybe that is what happened I'm not sure. But, then what happened to the original plastics.

None of these are going to be tip-top. Because of CL in general. But, I want to get the one that isn't going to have some immediate problem. I'm down for regular maintenance. Which again raises concern on #3 due to miles. Although, I guess it's not that many more than #2

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In it he mentions he pulled a lot off another DRZ; maybe that is what happened I'm not sure. But, then what happened to the original plastics.



None of these are going to be tip-top. Because of CL in general. But, I want to get the one that isn't going to have some immediate problem. I'm down for regular maintenance. Which again raises concern on #3 due to miles. Although, I guess it's not that many more than #2

#2 You need find out when the BB was installed. 12k isn't that many miles. The inverted forks are only a bling factor unless you plan on trying to qualify for Anaheim next year, and have the speed to make it.
That bike is preferable over #3 imo.

"1" is almost brand new still assuming it was cared for correctly. The only downside is the fork isn't a cartridge type. You may be able to feel the performance difference there. Fortunately Race Tech Gold Valves are relatively cheap and will improve the dampening should you feel the need.
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8 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:


#2 You need find out when the BB was installed. 12k isn't that many miles. The inverted forks are only a bling factor unless you plan on trying to qualify for Anaheim next year, and have the speed to make it.
That bike is preferable over #3 imo.

"1" is almost brand new still assuming it was cared for correctly. The only downside is the fork isn't a cartridge type. You may be able to feel the performance difference there. Fortunately Race Tech Gold Valves are relatively cheap and will improve the dampening should you feel the need.

What kind of information am I looking for about the BB? What does it mean if it's older etc. Again, he mentioned most if not all of this was done by the previous owner who he said owned like 7 other DRZ's or something like that. Guy has only had it for a three months and his GF wants him to get rid of it. All Hearsay, but still some sort of jumping off point. 

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I say 3 because of forks ( I believe the others do not hv upside down forks )  and the color.  2 looks really clean w good upgrades though.   Wherever you are they are cheaper than here in CA by at least $1500.  $3000 starting ? So assuming you get him down a bit $2500 .  These bikes would be $4-$5500 here 

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6 minutes ago, Brian Agnell said:

I say 3 because of forks ( I believe the others do not hv upside down forks )  and the color.  2 looks really clean w good upgrades though.   Wherever you are they are cheaper than here in CA by at least $1500.  $3000 starting ? So assuming you get him down a bit $2500 .  These bikes would be $4-$5500 here 

I really don't think the inverted are really going to make that much of a difference for my skill level. I'm not racing or anything intense. Plus, but so new of a rider I'd rather not have a blown fork deal all over my brakes. Being newer I may not realize it as early as a seasoned rider. 

I like the black too but that should not be a factor tbh as I can always change. 

I used to live in CA and everything's more expensive out there. Currently in the Indiana/Ohio area.

 

As far as price he listed for $3300 and $3000 is below Nada&KBB value, not including the wheels and other mods. I may be able to get another $100-200 off but I am expecting $3000, which seems fair especially considering the market around me.

 

Really leaning strongly to #2. Hoping it's sound in person.

Edited by Mixar

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