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New member - New owner '15 YZ250F (have a few questions)

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Hi all.  New/old rider here.  Im 37.  Havent raced or ridden for that matter since 2000.  Got kids now.  One on a 2018 CRF50.  Hes 6.  So I got a bike to be able to ride with him and maybe get into racing again for myself.  Found a clean 19 hour 15 YZ250f.  Bike is in immaculate shape.  BUT......

 

What is the trick to get it to start easy??  Something seems wrong.  I have been watching youtube videos about the 15+ YZ250F's and other 250F bikes and they all seem to start with one kick.  No need to find TDC or anything like that.  Warm or cold.  With mine its very sensitive about starting and needs to be at TDC no matter the temp.  Its very annoying.  First time I tried to start it, it took 20 minutes and I was already tired.  Then I went looking for info and found about all this TDC stuff.  And that would be fine if I wasnt seeing TONs of videos of people getting their new 15, 16, 17 YZ250F's and starting them in one kick.  Something has to be wrong.  This bike is 2 years old with 19 hours on it.  Original owner said it was maintained very well.  Didnt get a chance to ask him about its starting, and I dont want to bother him.  But it seems wrong.  Its not like its a 2000 or something with 150 hours on it.  

 

What could be the issue?  Valves needing adjustment?  New plug maybe??  I have no issue getting it to the dealer for a valve adjustment.  Just wondering what others think.

 

Thanks.

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Oh and next question who makes the best OEM-like replacement plastics including the air intake cover with the wings?  I want to replace them all with oem color plastics but not the actual oem yamaha ones.  Those are super expensive.  

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Are you turning the choke on before you try starting it?  If it doesn't like to start with the choke on, then I would check the ideal speed...it's easy to turn the knob and set it too low if you don't know about it.

If it still doesn't start, then check the valves.  It's extremely simply to do, and something that you should learn to do yourself (it will save you a lot of money).

Then, if the valves are fine, it's probably a fuel issue.  If it's a '15 with only 19 hours on it, I can guarantee that fuel sat in there for too long at some point and gunked up the fuel pump. It would also be a good idea to go through and clean/grease (dielectric) all the electrical connections.

I have a '15 with 80 hours on it, and it's always started with 1-2 kicks.

 

Plastics wise, I don't think any of them even come close to OEM.  But if you are dead set against going OEM I'd say go with Acerbis, or Cycra if you want the slimmer "powerflow" rad shrouds.

 

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I use the choke for when the bike is room temp.  As in not been started for a few hours.  But even if I just got done running it for a bit and its up to full temp, it still needs the "find TDC" procedure then a few good kicks before it will start.  


As for the fuel, the last owner ran the VP four stroke stuff.  That stuff is expensive and a much higher octane than 93.  I plan to run it out next weekend then just run 93 pump gas from Shell.  I dont plan on tuning it with a programmer or anything.  Maybe an FMF slip on pipe tho.  

 

But yeah I am subscribed to a few channels on youtube with guys that have the same bike.  None of them are having to find TDC and kick from there.  Just jump on and kick 1 time and its running.  Something is off.  I might take it to the dealer on monday and have them go through it.  Its bothering me to the point I want to trade it in on a new bike.  That way I can start fresh.  Know where its been and how its been ridden and maintained.  

 

Yeah and as for the idle, it seems to be good.  I have it a few clicks past the point where it chugs as its idling.  Meaning where it would be on the brink of dying.  I have it a few clicks ahead of that.  To me it sounds good, and not idling too high.  Im thinking about starting with a plug change.  That way I can look at the old plug and see if its showing any signs of abnormal fueling.  Its cheap enough to do anyway.


I already did an oil change, coolant flush and a deep clean on the bike.  I also adjusted and lubed the chain and cleaned and oiled the filter.  Its ready to ride.  Just needs to be ridden. lol.  I even spent the last week getting a hitch installed on our explorer as well as ordering one of those hitch mounted motorcycle carriers.  Im ready.  Scared, but ready.  Its been a long time since i've been on a track or trail.  But I will be following my son on his 50, so I cant imagine we will be setting a blistering pace.  I do also need to get one of those trail tech kick stands.  He likes to dump his bike randomly and gets pinned under it just about every time (6 years old).  And I'd hate to have to lean my bike on the ground quickly to be able to get to him and help him.  So thats another $150 toward the cause...

Edited by Vet Rider
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Idle should be set at 2100-2200 rpm, which is pretty fast. The tuner makes it a lot easier to be exact.

Make sure to keep the throttle closed while kicking it.

Also. laying it over on its side won't hurt it and no fuel will run out since its fuel injected.

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Maybe if I keep this bike, I should invest in that handheld tuner?  Does it give sensor info that you can see as well??  Like coolant temps or general temps and injector duty cycles??  What capability are we talking about?

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If bike is mostly stock get the vp gas out. Probably to high of octane to burn efficiently. 

You should always kick from TDC with choke on.   Choke is like a primer

if this don't do it check valves

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8 hours ago, Vet Rider said:

Maybe if I keep this bike, I should invest in that handheld tuner?  Does it give sensor info that you can see as well??  Like coolant temps or general temps and injector duty cycles??  What capability are we talking about?

Tuner adjusts fuel and advances or retard the ignition. It shows air temp, engine temp. engine running hours and fault codes. I think it shows a bit more but that's all I can think of at the moment.

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Nothing is wrong with the bike......

My 14' was the same way, the more hours it got on it, it started firing up faster. I've never used the "choke" to start my bike while cold. One thing I can tell you, the bike loves Neutral, find N, then kick. Now, my bike will fire in 1-2 kicks as long as I have it in neutral. If I try to kick it with clutch in, in gear, it takes a few kicks for some reason.

I know it sounds stupid but you've been out of the game for awhile, maybe your "kicking technique" isn't up to par? My buddies would laugh at me kicking the hell out of my 14' (I got one new after being off a bike for 15+ years and only being on a 2t). They would jump on it, lightly pump the kick starter until they found TDC (you can feel it), and then one massive kick and bike would fire every time.

What VP fuel was he using? VPR is fine. I've ran it in mine since about its 5th tank of gas. It has 50hours on it. Original piston. No valve movement. Rips just as hard as the day i got it, actually i take that back. It's better. Becareful reading bullshit on the internet. This forum and others by the end of the day after getting my 14' had me paranoid the thing was going to blow up from the impellar and shift stopper. Eventually, I just said F that, I don't care, lets see what happens as it was the same stories over and over. After 32 hours on the "OMG ITS GONNA BLOW'' impellar and shift stopper, I had the whole bike tore down and everything replaced/checked by TZR. My impellar and shift stopper were both fine from the factory.

 

On edit- the cycra plastic will make the bike a little slimmer from the shrouds. Acerbis is good too. I've never met anyone that buys directly from factory for any plastic.

Edited by rexisme
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I've been out for a while also and just got back in this year. I was a 125 Int rider back in the days of smokers. In '08, after 12 years of skydiving, I decided to jump back on the 4 stroke revolution. I bought a CRF250R and started racing +30. It would start ok cold from TDC with the choke on or without the choke if it had been sitting for a few minutes. If it was hot though it was almost impossible to start. Anytime I stalled it during a race I'd lose up to a full lap before getting it going again. Made racing not fun anymore. Low and behold one day when I was riding I realized I never messed with the extra little lever mounted on the clutch perch. I held the lever, kicked 'er over and BOO YAH it fired right up! I felt like such an idiot. For 6 months I had no idea 4 strokes had a 'hot start' lever.

This time around I went to a fuel injected 4 stroke and haven't had any issues with starting hot or cold.

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The fuel injected Yamahas YZ250f need three good kicks to provide enough electric current to turn the fuel pump to pressurize the fuel system.  That is why it starts easier in neutral the magneto spins a little faster without any clutch drag.

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