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2011 rmz250 suspension overly stiff

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Ive got a 11 rmz250 that seems rediculously stiff, i purchased it off a friend who bought it new abd just rode it, everything was stock as a rock. 

Theres next to no droop when u sit on the bike front or rear, and it beats the hell out of u riding. My yz250 has good travel a rides worlds better, as has every other bike ive ridden. 

What could be the issues? Im 120kg and 6 foot 3. Its the factory springs front a rear DSC_0849.JPG.0da42d63cba48dcf5e82c77a77438d34.JPG

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Well as I've heard from every single RM-Z450 owner, that's just how they come, very stiff. You have to have them re-valved and they are great. But weirdly enough is I am exactly your build hight and weight and the stock suspension works good for me, I have the clickers and preload adjusted on the forks to the softest settings and the rear shock adjusted to the middle range preload and clickers. The front fork is still a bit stiff but I think it's mainly because I sit too far back on the bike because I'm really tall. I've heard changing the fork oil level or oil weight helps too but that sounds like it's hard to do and I don't want to mess up my bike nor spend ridiculous money to have someone re-valve it so I'm just learning to ride it how it is. It feels fine to me but I've never rode another bike with the suspension done so I don't know how it's "suppose" to feel. I just don't see it making a difference.

I have the 2013 RM-Z450

 

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Just realized that the 2011 doesn't have the adjustable suspension preload and clickers I don't think. So your only option really would be getting them re-valved? Hopefully someone else can chime in and give you better advise. Good luck

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If the bike doesn't sag at all when you take it off the stand and set it on the ground(free sag) or when you sit on it(race sag), someone definitely did something to the spring settings. Both free and race sags are determined by the rear spring. Until it's set properly adjusting valving will be a complete waste of time.

You may need new springs but before you order parts, I would take the forks apart and drain the oil to see if someone added spacers to stiffen up the front.

Also I would adjust the rear race sag(sag with you sitting on the bike) to the proper setting around 108mm. Once you do this the bike should sag under its own weight when not on the stand between 25-45mm. This is called free sag. ***IF YOUR RACE SAG IS CORRECT AND YOUR FREE SAG IS OUTSIDE 25-45mm YOUR SPRING RATE IS INCORRECT AND YOU NEED A NEW REAR SPRING***

Personally, I like Factory Connection for my Showa suspension but that's just me. Whoever you choose, give them a call and have them help you with your questions before ordering anything. FC was super helpful and well worth investing $$ for suspension in my experience. Just google Factory Connection.

I picked up a 2013 RMZ450 about 6 months ago wanting a fun project to race tune. The bike needed some TLC for sure but is pretty amazing now. Don't give up on her.

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I also have a 2013 RM-Z 450. How much was it at FC for the re-valve? I have never been on a dirt bike before this one so I don't know how it's suppose to feel and have heard some people say they didn't really notice a difference. I just ride trails, I don't do racing or jumps. Would it still be worth it to re-valve? Is it really hard to get the forks off? It looks really hard, I don't want to mess up the bike.

 

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I paid $685 for front and rear revalve and a stiffer shock spring. You'll have to pay to ship your components too but I think they'll send you boxes and packaging to send it in. I dropped mine off and picked it up locally.

FC replaced all wear parts and gave me valve stack settings for a 210lb Int Vet MX. I was really happy with what I got. They got rid of the bottoming while increasing plushness from the initial stroke all the way through the mid stroke. Everything was within a 'click' or two from perfect when I got it back front and rear.
Once I felt like I had my stock settings dialed in I put on a JGR adjustable lowering link. After a fair amount of testing with the link, my final shock settings are still within a few clicks.

Removing the forks and shock are pretty simple. You need to know torque specs going back together though. I bought the service manual from my local dealer for $70 as soon as I got the bike. It has the torque specs and clearances you need to know for maintenance. It also outlines just about every maintenance and repair procedure you could think of.

All that being said, is it worth it to re-valve? That's a personal decision that depends on what your wanting to get out of your riding experience. If you were an Int Hare Scramble racer I would say 'yes' for sure. If you're a casual trail rider who enjoys cruising the trails, you'll notice a difference but might get more enjoyment from spending that $$$ on something else.

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