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XR250R Valve cover torques

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Hi, I am replacing my cover on my XR the valve pivot bolts 2 seem bigger than the other 4 but I was wondering what the torques are on these bolts because I want to put some locktite on it too and get them torqued down properly.
Also the cover bolts there is 3 different types around the cover and I want to find out the torque for those (I have the honda parts photo of all bolts etc.) but I don't know if their torque is the same too, I just wanna do it and not worry about it for a long time again as its my first time getting into any engine related work, any help would be appreciated guys.

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Thanks guys, that helped heaps, with the wave washers does it matter what way they face? I copied the way the other valve cover had them assembled but to me it makes more sense that the single contact side faces the bolt and the 2 contact side faces the cover of the metal (otherwise the bolt touches the wave washer about 3/4 way before the second point of contact of it, so it would be like BOLT ( VALVE COVER METAL, right now there is 2 mounted this way and 2 mounted BOLT ) VALVE COVER METAL, don't know whether that will make much of a difference tho.
59c5fecc205c5_WAVEWASHER.png.dd17e78ebad269489a80c6bcf1b4e2cc.png

 

Hope that makes sense, and any info about what tool I could use to torque down the last 2 bolts would be appreciated as I really want to get it going and its the last piece of the puzzle.

Also should I put a small film of oil on the valve cover gasket on both sides before installing it?

Edited by Eryk

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Job done, stripped a screw and luckily I was able to get it out, tip: don't use a 3/8 torque wrench on a 12nm torque setting on the valve screws as it doesn't click and will &%$#@! the screw, now another week or two waiting on backorder :thumbsdn:
Cheers guys

Edited by Eryk

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My torque wrench is a 3/8 and it stripped the bolt so I tightened them all by hand with a small regular wrench, should that be alright? I might get a smaller torque wrench in the future to go over it but nothing should happen after a few months of riding like that daily? The XR is almost back on the roads :)

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Way over a decade ago, when Sears was known for good tools (now their socket wrenches look cheap, and they're going broke), I wanted a good clicker torque wrench.  I thought, let's check it with this simpler design beam type torque wrench.  They didn't compare at all.  I decided if you can't afford a Snapon or Mac torque wrench, & I can't (or won't), you just have to do it by hand.  Just start easy and check it later for leaks or loosening.

One day I was working at a power plant as an electrician and we had specs to torque small screws.  Me and the other guy both felt that taking it all the way to spec would strip (or over stress) the screws.  You can't always trust torque wrenches, or torque specs.  Since dirt bikes are worked on a lot, I would guess the specs are good, but I just refuse to pay that much for a torque wrench.  I guess I'd go with the cheaper beam type from Snapon or Mac if I felt I needed one.

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Plus, how a fastener reaches torque depends a lot on whether both sets of threads are dry or lubricated. Some specs will specify, but if they don't and both sets of threads are not totally clean and dry, do not use a torque wrench to tighten to a given spec., especially on small fasteners. Learn to get a feel by hand when tight is tight enough. Learn to get a feel for when the threads start to pull beyond that point.

When you're learning to get a feel for that, don't use long leverage.

You can always tighten by hand first, then check to see how close you are with a torque wrench. Backing it down off of stated torque of the fastener and turn it up a little at a time until it stops clicking and tries to tighten what you did by hand. That point gives you an indication of what torque felt right by hand and how close you were to stated torque.

Edited by Trailryder42
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