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07 cr250 showa forks

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Re assembling the dampers. The fluid level Honda specs 42-47mm. Made sure all the air out of them before re assembling. So when I re assembled the damper I pushed the damper rod all the way down and a lot of oil blew by the o rings and shot out the side holes. Is it supposed to do that? Did I push the damper rod too far down? IMG_1313.jpgIMG_1312.jpg

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Yes the oil volume specified for the cartridge is nominal (don't be afraid to slightly overfill them).

Once you fully cycle the rod, it displaces the excess oil so just the right amount is left inside.

Edited by mlatour

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Re-read your post and noticed the picture, 

the base valve assy. (top cap) must be screwed into place before you cycle the rod / purge the excess.

 

The extra oil must only flow out of those 2 holes (block one off with a finger to make a mess in only one direction!)

Edited by mlatour

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I filled the damper with 6.6oz fluid what the manual specs (42-47mm) and cycled the damper rod a lot to get any air out. Then screwed in the damper assembly all the way. Then started pumping it to test it out. Felt nice and firm rebounding all the way out. The manual says do it 4". I kept increasing it then pushed it all the way in and oil came out the holes and air got sucked into it. Rebound not as firm now. So I unscrewed the cap, oil level was about 25mm. Just making sure that's normal?

It has a vertical score mark all the way down the damper rod, not a deep scratch but worn through the coating to bare aluminum.

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It's normal that when overfilled and not yet purged, they feel firmer.

Excess oil is pushed out but how do you know air got sucked in?  (usually not a problem)

 

These forks often suffer from worn/damages ICS piston inner seal and, lower cartridge / rod seals.

If you find your forks feel fine on the first ride and then progressively get mushy, I would suspect that.

Edited by mlatour

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I could hear and feel air in them after that. Stroking the damper rod in again. I'll try it again tmrw and see what happens.

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When you initially fill them be very thorough,

slowly stroke the rod in/out about 4", let the bubbles settle to the top,

tap the full length of the cartridge with the plastic handle of a screwdriver to dislodge bubbles clinging to the sides.

Wait a few minutes, repeat again.

Confirm there a no more air bubbles making their way to the surface when cycling the rod.

 

Re-assemble the base valve and purge the excess thru the 2 holes.

At first do it vertically 1-2 times as then horizontally as well to get all the excess oil out from above the ICS piston.

 

If despite that you still feel air / oil gurgling when you cycle the rod,

the seals I previously mentioned might be bad, the worn coating you mentioned doesn't help either.

(oil drips from the bottom seal ?)

Edited by mlatour

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When pouring an amount of oil into the cartridge, the closer you get to the exact amount of oil necessary, the bigger the risk in drawing air in when releasing the rod during the purge process. I push the rod in with the tubes horizontal, let the oil drain out and then turn the fork to an upright position prior to releasing the damping rod. .....never draws any air.

 

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Just go ahead and replace floating piston seal (top) and InnerCartSeal (bottom) and enjoy nearly new forks for less than $50 with parts from SDI. I did my 06 450 not long ago. I replaced the metal bushing behind ICS and o-rings on rebound adjuster, piston, cap (BV) and cart (into outer) also. Then you'll truly have good as new for a few more years.

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