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Lightbar vs traditional headlight

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How much power would an LED lightbar draw compared to a stock headlight? I've got an older wr, so it hasn't got a battery, but I'm entertaining the idea of replacing the old looking headlight with an MX number plate and a lightbar. Would this be do-able with a stock stator?

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There's hundred's of different light bars, you can get one that's 36 or 40 watts or even less and run it with a stock stator just fine.

If your wr is old enough to not have electric start and a battery the LED may flicker at idle, my brother's old KLX300 does this with a 18 watt led light bar on it but it's so much brighter than the stock light its still worth it.

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There's hundred's of different light bars, you can get one that's 36 or 40 watts or even less and run it with a stock stator just fine.
If your wr is old enough to not have electric start and a battery the LED may flicker at idle, my brother's old KLX300 does this with a 18 watt led light bar on it but it's so much brighter than the stock light its still worth it.


Cheers for the reply
How many watts is a stock headlight?

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Ya now that the days are getting shorter I'm finally this year starting on looking at options for night riding my CRF250R with out a battery.

So far from my research and talking to a couple of dude who do this.

You really need both some sort of head light AND and a GOOD helmet light since you want the forwardish light from the head light BUT also be able to have the helmet light to point it towards where your actually looking.

Then it really comes done to $$$ and where and how fast you are riding and this is only something I might do say 10 times over the winter and usually at slow speeds unless I can come up with something cheap and works :)

For the head lamp I'm looking at battery powered (say a good bicycle light) or something with more power and as an option I've read a thread about using an 18V rechargeable power tool setup you can mod and mount under your seat and I see if I can find it.

EDIT IMO a cool option for adding 18V power to a bike with out a battery in this topic.

For the helmet light I still looking into mounting/power options.

I just searched the general forum for the night riding threads and found a few but could not seem to find a couple that I liked otherwise

https://www.bajadesigns.com/

And lets see who else wants to chime in.

 

Edited by filterx

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I'm going to try mounting one of these on the beak of my helmet for this winter. I'll run it off a drill battery or battery pack whichever I can find cheaper.

 

 

 

light.jpg

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Incandescent bulbs produce 16-20 lumen per watt,
Halogen bulbs produce about 28 lumen/watt,
HID about 80 lumen/watt,
LED 100 lumen/watt (some 130/w).

The lens and how the beam is focused is very important and varies with aftermarket lights because they often don't meet the standards for on road lights.
And the best beam for trail riding is probably not the best for the road, and vice versa.

So you can get about 5 times more light per watt by switching from incandescent to LED.
The problem is some of the Chinese LED sellers post equivalent light wattage rather than the power the LED uses. :banghead:

FrickinJim.com has a website with good videos showing the differences between helmet lights. 

LED H4 bulbe test:

AuxBeam has some good stuff on LEDs: https://www.auxbeam.com/headlight-bulbs?gclid=CLXHlIixj88CFQZufgodEX4LVg

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In order to run led you will need DC power for it. Your bike makes mostly AC power. You will need to float the ground on your stator and get a 100% DC rectifier/regulator. After that you should be able to power a 35-40 watt led

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7 hours ago, biglake said:

I'm going to try mounting one of these on the beak of my helmet for this winter. I'll run it off a drill battery or battery pack whichever I can find cheaper.

 

 

 

light.jpg

How many lumens per fixture and do you have a link?

As a suggestion for mounting, I've got some blocks of high density foam and I cut up a piece to use to mount my GPS to my bar pad and it works REALLY well. For one of the above, I'd cut a piece as long and wide as the fixture and flat on top and curved on the bottom to fit the bend on the visor. Then I'd drill 4 holes in the visor zip tie the fixture on the block to the visor. Pretty easy to take on/off and the high density foam works great to stop vibration.

This was a test fit before using 2 zip ties to hold it down.

20160511_172919.thumb.jpg.272506fd12612da18d08a270820230fb.jpg

Then mounted.

20160515_102848.thumb.jpg.2be65957a86859f3e29a7cfe2a8935e2.jpg

Then I might mount one on the bar pad :)

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Here you go.

https://www.amazon.ca/UNI-FILTER-Offroad-Wrangler-Vehicles/dp/B06ZZH29BB/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1506094553&sr=8-4&keywords=18+watt+led+bar

There's lots of other similar lights that work too, that's just the picture I googled.

I don't know the lumens but 2 of the guys I bike with have these lights on the number plate of their bikes, they're brighter than stock bike lights by quite a bit and only 1/2 the wattage.

I have a couple of the square 10 watt lights that are even brighter but I would rather have the skinnier, 6 inch flat bar mounted on my helmet visor so it's not in the way as much, it looks like I can get it under the visor so its completely out of harms way. I'll mount the square lights on the yz and run them off a battery( I have them on my wr250r now but I'm selling it soon), they're like these but square and two of the 10 watt square/round ones are quite a bit brighter than the 18 watt bar. I'd mount them on a bike instead of a low watt led bar but they're kinda big to put on a helmet.

 

22.jpg

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Thanks dude and I looked at the link and 7" Flood might be good for the bike, then the 6" spot for the helmet. Pretty cheap for 2 of each of these and i could setup some else and there are other options :)

My buddy just showed me his small 2 LED unit (1" x 2") he has mounted under his visor, then wired over the top of the helmet to the external battery pack. I'm getting him to send me a pic and the specs/cost and I'll post it.

IMO and for me this is a process liking running studded tires for the first time cus didn't know how they would work or even if I would like it. Went with the cheap tapcons and MAN IF we actually get snow where I live in BC, I put on the studded tires. I used them about 4 winters ago for the first time, then didn't need them the next 2 winters, then last winter we had a ton of snow and they were awesome and now I really know what I want for studded tires. Going to be the same thing for night riding cus I never done it before BUT will sort out what works best for where and how I ride.

 

 

 

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Ya the 6" 18W ones are 1800 Lumen and the 36W ones are 3600 lumen.

These things are cheap and I'm just sorting out what combo of floods vs spots I going to buy.

Besides the 18W for my helmet, think I'm going to get a pair of these 36W ones and mount one on the bike.

71MQ4g1EpiL._SL1000_.thumb.jpg.3306b05de35721ab804c8446cd114c08.jpg

Otherwise :)

lights.jpg.3664f0760e53d83c3e387bd032004e7d.jpg

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Most LED's are 10-30 volts.

This works out great if you want to run one off a 18 or 24 volt drill battery.

Filtrex I cant wait to put the studded tires on too.

This year I'm running old 1 inch snowmobile studs in the center of the rear tire and tapcons in the rest of the knobs, I'm putting the studs in just like guys put tapcons in, it should be bomb proof. My buds ripped the studs out of the center of their 350 dollar prestudded tires last winter, they're putting the snowmobile studs in the center of their tire where the studs came out or broke off too. We ride wide open on dirt some with the studded tires, the prestudded ones hold up for most normal people lol. If you know someone with junk sleds you can get used studs for free.

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10 hours ago, wielywilly-g said:

Are all these LED lights 12V?

Heres are the specs for the 6" 1800 Lumens one I plan on using on my helmet and posted a pic of and the link to web site but it doesn't give weight but can't imagine one weights that much.

Size : 6" 18W LED Light Work Lights

Technical Specification:
Power: 18W
6pcs*3W high intensity LEDs
Working Voltage: DC 9-32V
Lumen: 1800lm
Beam: Spot Beam(30 degree)
Color Temperature: Pure White 6000K
Working Temperature:-40-85 degree Celsius
Protection Rate: IP67
Life Span: 50,000 hours

I'm working on getting a Rigid 18V battery set-up going (one for each light)  from old work tools. Head light battery on the bike and helmet battery in my pack.

 

 

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Just so it is clear, LED will not out perform HID currently.  

No, I don't care how awesome the heatsink is, or if it is true dedomed XLP on a 5mm thick copper star and over driven, it still is not going to out shine a $25 HID in a good housing.  

 

Also, the lower the color temperature the better.  I prefer 3,500k, Hella and most others use 4,500k as their standard.  The idea the blue is better is because people are idiots.  

Edited by crypto666

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7 hours ago, crypto666 said:

Just so it is clear, LED will not out perform HID currently.  

No, I don't care how awesome the heatsink is, or if it is true dedomed XLP on a 5mm thick copper star and over driven, it still is not going to out shine a $25 HID in a good housing.  

 

Also, the lower the color temperature the better.  I prefer 3,500k, Hella and most others use 4,500k as their standard.  The idea the blue is better is because people are idiots.  

As I said I'm in the process of just doing this for the first time and its a work in progress and open to suggestions :)

The 18W 1800 Lumen 6000K SPOT I plan on using on my helmet is about $15.

The 36W 3600 Lumen 6000K FLOOD I plan on using on the bike is about $20.

So in your option..

Is the 1800 Lumen SPOT a good option for the helmet and the 3600 Lumen FLOOD a good option for the bike?

I understand lamp colour temperatures since I work in the electrical industry and deal with this when determining the best lighting for offices, warehouse homes etc and yes the higher temps are bluer and IMO 3500K to 4000K are whitish but why do you think these temps are better then say 6000K for riding at night?

Part of the reason I'm asking is cus the lights I plan on using are designed for cars/tracks and from the videos of them they looked pretty good at night.

With that said, I've got a couple of 2 lamp T8 fixtures that had 3500K lamps in my office and I just put in T8 5000K LEDS and IMO its like day vs night :)

led-color-temperature.jpg

To recap.

The 18W 1800 Lumen 6000K SPOT I plan on using on my helmet is about $15.

61leVmImMJL._SL1000_.thumb.jpg.6985a4cccca8b3f580d6c471549dae81.jpg

The 36W 3600 Lumen 6000K FLOOD I plan on using on the bike is about $20.

71MQ4g1EpiL._SL1000_.thumb.jpg.4768b03bc7745d46a50df43d52a73556.jpg

Then I just fabbed up a 18V Rigid battery I'm planning on using. One on the bike for the flood and one in the pack for the helmet but again this is a work in progress.

20170927_162405.jpg.de22ac4bbd8749e844773fb2ebed49df.jpg20170927_163304.jpg.8cba1570bf308be88e173404ddab0504.jpg20170927_164741.jpg.38a553d3ee7bb6d2ffcc7d2df44aa2d8.jpg20170927_164816.jpg.291e5ef5d25a35a2edded3b7d7987af1.jpg

 

Edited by filterx

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My understanding is the higher temp light provides less depth perception for our eyes.

On tool batteries the charging circuit is separate from the discharge circuit so ceck out the wiring. If you attempt to charge thru the discharge circuit you will damage the the battery protection circuit and the battery will no worky. Don't ask.

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16 hours ago, filterx said:

As I said I'm in the process of just doing this for the first time and its a work in progress and open to suggestions :)

The 18W 1800 Lumen 6000K SPOT I plan on using on my helmet is about $15.

The 36W 3600 Lumen 6000K FLOOD I plan on using on the bike is about $20.

So in your option..

Is the 1800 Lumen SPOT a good option for the helmet and the 3600 Lumen FLOOD a good option for the bike?

I understand lamp colour temperatures since I work in the electrical industry and deal with this when determining the best lighting for offices, warehouse homes etc and yes the higher temps are bluer and IMO 3500K to 4000K are whitish but why do you think these temps are better then say 6000K for riding at night?

Part of the reason I'm asking is cus the lights I plan on using are designed for cars/tracks and from the videos of them they looked pretty good at night.

With that said, I've got a couple of 2 lamp T8 fixtures that had 3500K lamps in my office and I just put in T8 5000K LEDS and IMO its like day vs night :)

led-color-temperature.jpg

To recap.

The 18W 1800 Lumen 6000K SPOT I plan on using on my helmet is about $15.

 

The 36W 3600 Lumen 6000K FLOOD I plan on using on the bike is about $20.

 

Then I just fabbed up a 18V Rigid battery I'm planning on using. One on the bike for the flood and one in the pack for the helmet but again this is a work in progress.

 

 

First off, I will just say that I actually ride motorcycles offroad, nearly everyday and I love riding at night.  

That little round bar mounted led light you show for $150, can be had for $6 (with T6 LEDs).  That is the most common light I see at night races, mounted on helmets.  Maybe it puts out 3000lm, but it does not compare to more modern LED in better housings.  I have single XM-L lights that throw further (dedomed) and put out more light.  You would be way ahead to purchase one of these with a XHP emitter and tape it to your helmet. http://www.mtnelectronics.com/index.php?route=product/category&path=80

  The XHP70 emitter in a nice deep housing would make an awesome helmet light.

3,500 -4000k color temps have more red. 

Blue light destroys your night vision and strains your eyes in low light conditions.  

Amber lights are used in offroad racing to help deal with dust. 

Amber is a lower color temperature, approaching 2800k.  

6000k is not ok.  

Your idea of mounting lights on foam blocks will not work offroad, unless you like vertigo.  

 

Edited by crypto666
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