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86 XR250R dual sport conversion

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I've got a 1986 XR250R that I want to do a DS conversion on. What am I going to have to be concerned about with powering everything. I'm looking at using the stock headlight assembly with a dual filament bulb and will convert the taillight to a dual filament. Any good sources for making my own harness.

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Washington has very specific requirements for plating dirt bikes, I just did a wiring harness for a friend who was plating a 90 XR200. You will need turn signals and a horn, both require DC.  You will need to find a shop to perform the inspection and they will have a check list of the items they inspect and their requirements. The stock alternator can power a 35watt headlight and a 12watt tail light so not much available power, but if you use LED tail and turn signals you will be OK.  Since the alternator has only one lighting section it will prob be easiest to run all of the lights on DC.
You can buy a kit or parts to build your own. My friend chose the later to save money. He also wanted everything quick disconnect so he could easily revert to no lights when he wasn't needing the license plate, that required connectors. I don't have a list of all of his costs but he did say the final bill was close to $600, and I see CL ads for plated dirt bikes that are about a grand more than unplated.

 

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My xr400 has the Baja Designs kit on it, good quality, has everything except front brake light switch, worth a look. It has a small 12V dry battery pack, small enough to Velcro in place

XR400 002.JPG

Edited by DPete

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12 hours ago, Chuck. said:

I was looking the go all LED to conserve as much power as I could, maybe eventually step up to a rewound stator. I have a set of DOT tires that are from my WR450 when I converted it and a few other parts in the parts bin. How hard was it to build up a harness?

 

 

Edited by SPLATT

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My friend wanted easy removal of the lights and/or the  system so lots connectors and a separate wiring harness for the lights. His engine had a TLR200 alternator so as a start I went to ebay and bought a TLR wiring harness, regulator, and rectifier/reg. Also needed a 10,000uF capacitor as a filter (instead of a battery) so the regulator would work properly. 
And then with a VTM, wiring diagram, and masking tape as tabs I marked the function of various groups of wires.
Next I placed the harness on my bike to verify where components could be mounted. The R/R went on top of the air box, the regulator under the tank.
I then designed the wiring connections and ordered connector plugs and bullets from cycle terminal. The K&S handlebar switch has a Honda connector and uses Honda wire colors so that was a natural. I ordered the version with the two mating connectors and loose pins. 
I used a six pin connector located in front of the air box for the tail light/turn signals, but smaller separates for the tail/brake and turn could also be used. The wiring harness had a 9 pin Honda connector at the steering head so I used that (it matched the other connectors that I used, see below). The bulk of the wiring was on the headlight shell as it also contained the horn,  LED turn signals, and flasher. So one 9 pin to connect to the wiring harness and a 9 pin to connect to the handlebar switch. 
I then opened up the harness and removed all of the ignition wires because they were in the OEM harness, some unneeded ground wires, and the battery hot wire. I had to splice in some wires to reach the tail light connector. Back to the bike to finalize component locations etc. I used Honda wire colors for everything in the harness and most other places, the exceptions being exposed wires on aftermarket components.

I used the locking type .110 connectors because the 9 pin matched the K&S and TLR conectors, plus they are avail in color. http://www.cycleterminal.com/110-connectors.html

You do need a good crimping tool for open barrel pins: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0050KDKUC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And an extractor tool to remove pins; I made one by adding taper to a micro screw drive blade, but a paper clip might work, or:https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0660PT-Piece-Weatherpack-Tool/dp/B0002JMYKS/ref=pd_sim_328_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002JMYKS&pd_rd_r=68F5ZFTW6YR6BHMT7CK8&pd_rd_w=uGNRR&pd_rd_wg=H1Isd&psc=1&refRID=68F5ZFTW6YR6BHMT7CK8

There are many XL wiring diagrams at 4Strokes,com that you can use as a guide.


59c7d76f3e0bc_HondaWireColorCodes.thumb.jpg.664ded47f9bcbc146dc21f795d9d2433.jpg

On edit:
If you want more power you could use a XL250 alternator and wiring harness. I did a similar to an early XR200 engine by swapping out a complete later system because I wanted more power for lights, and I used the the later harness and components because of the different style of connectors.   Honda like to makes parts a bit different so they can't be mixed on the assembly line so on the XR200 I needed to use rotor, stator, and cover from the same year/model.  And then the late harness because of the connectors. Honda started changing connector types on the XRs in the mid eighties so 84-85 are the problem years.

Edited by Chuck.

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Thanks for the info, I'll have to start collecting the rest of what I don't have.

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On ‎9‎/‎22‎/‎2017 at 10:31 PM, SPLATT said:

I've got a 1986 XR250R that I want to do a DS conversion on. What am I going to have to be concerned about with powering everything. I'm looking at using the stock headlight assembly with a dual filament bulb and will convert the taillight to a dual filament. Any good sources for making my own harness.

If you're looking to make your own harness you can take what I posted and modify it for your own harness. Its fairly straight forward. You would only need to add in a Hi/Lo switch for your dual beam headlight. 

 

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On ‎9‎/‎23‎/‎2017 at 9:50 AM, DPete said:

My xr400 has the Baja Designs kit on it, good quality

I just plated my XR200, also used the Baja designs kit.    In PA, you need a chain guard.   I bought the Honda chain guard for the CRF230M for around $20 and used brackets and sheet metal  screws to attach it to  the swing arm.

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