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2011 DRZ400SM need help :/

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Hey everyone, 

I bought my DRZ back in june, 24,000kms, well kept, full yosh exhaust, 3x3 the works. Rode it for a bit and had some clacking. Bought a team Alba acct fix, worked for about a day, then I bought the TT mcct and it worked like a dream until late August. Now with just 25,000 I ordered a hotcams cam chain, and a new gasket. Got everything replaced, about to get the clutch nut torqued, snapped a post on the hub sleeve. 3 weeks later (thanks Canadian customs!) get the new hub sleeve, put the entire bike back together. Fill it with oil, coolant, check for leaks and such. Go to fire it up, nothing, give it a bit of throttle...BANG figure its just a backfire. Bike runs like absolute garbage for 5 seconds and shuts off. I'm no bike mechanic, but I'm not completely retarded. Did I bugger the bike up? I'll also add that in first gear (really hard to get into without moving the bike forward) I let the clutch out and it locks up the rear wheel. Same for every single gear. Is there a certain way the clutch goes in? Did I use the wrong chain? Probably all noob questions. I did set the timing, properly. 15 pins, between the cams, engine was set at tdc when timing was set, tensioner was hand tightened and backed off a quarter turn. Having an issue, when I remove the cover on the LH side to turn the engine CCW, it just spins, no engine movement at all. Could this be part of my issue? Any and all help would be appreciated. Really trying to avoid the shop rates. 

Thanks 

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"Having an issue, when I remove the cover on the LH side to turn the engine CCW, it just spins, no engine movement at all. Could this be part of my issue?"

You are going to have to explain this more.  On the left side of the motor there is a round access plug in the center of the alternator cover.  Un-screw that plug and you can put a 17mm socket on the nut that holds the flywheel on to turn the motor. If you can spin that nut without turning the motor something is definitely wrong.  Maybe you are using a socket that is too big so it is slipping the nut.  Maybe the nut is loose so the flywheel is now also loose.  Maybe the crankshaft is broken but that is extremely unlikely.

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Update 2017/25/09: took the valve cover off, and the LH side cover (10mm hex plug was stripped) looked at the 17mm nut, its way off the paint mark from the factory. I was turning the motor over with the 27mm nut behind it. Took a video, worst fears confirmed...

 

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Cams are sitting at roughly 11 and 3. Not sure how they moved, I checked 4+ times that it was TDC when I did the timing. This is my first timing chain job, gotta learn somewhere I guess. :/

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Cams are sitting at roughly 11 and 3. Not sure how they moved, I checked 4+ times that it was TDC when I did the timing. This is my first timing chain job, gotta learn somewhere I guess. :/

Potentially ruining your engine isn't the way to learn. Hopefully you get off lucky.

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I'm not understanding the video. How can you say turning the flywheel is not turning the motor?  Pretty hard to interpret since the camera is not focused on the flywheel but it seems the motor is turning. Yes it appears you need to re-check the cam timing.

You can also tun the motor with the rear wheel and save taking the left side motor apart.  Use 5th gear

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8 hours ago, Noble said:

I'm not understanding the video. How can you say turning the flywheel is not turning the motor?  Pretty hard to interpret since the camera is not focused on the flywheel but it seems the motor is turning. Yes it appears you need to re-check the cam timing.

You can also tun the motor with the rear wheel and save taking the left side motor apart.  Use 5th gear

I took the stator/starter/flywheel cover off to turn the engine with the 27mm nut. I can't turn it with the 17mm nut under the side cover. When looking at the 17mm nut the paint mark is opposite that of the mark on the shaft. Motor is for sure turning, not sure if I loosened the flywheel when changing the cam chain, but for sure the timing is way out. 

The bike doesn't move when in any gear, it rolls about half a foot and locks up. To get the bike into a gear, I have to roll it half a foot in neutral. When I roll it to its original position it doesn't go into gear. Is this related to the flywheel? Or is there an issue with my clutch basket?

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I'm sorry I can not understand what you are telling me.  You can turn the motor with the hex on the flywheel but can not turn the motor my pushing the motorcycle in gear.  That would be normal due to compression.  Take the spark plug out and you should be able to push it in gear with some resistance.  I would have to have hands on to really understand what you are trying to say.

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2 hours ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

He's turning it with the flywheel, not the nut on the crank.

OP,
To hell where the paint marks point , is the nut tight or not? Why can't you turn it, what happens?

The flywheel is what I have my finger on in the attached picture correct? If so it has a bit of wiggle to it when I pull on it. 

Hopefully the video posted gives a better look into what my issue is. Thanks for trying to help. 

1506434474753-1537170276.jpg

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That's bad. You need to get the nut off. Hopefully there are threads still on the crank.
Whomever sold you the bike probably sold it for that very reason.

Your other problem of course is what's damaged inside. You're going to have to pull the head and see how bad the piston and valves are.

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3 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

That's bad. You need to get the nut off. Hopefully there are threads still on the crank.
Whomever sold you the bike probably sold it for that very reason.

Your other problem of course is what's damaged inside. You're going to have to pull the head and see how bad the piston and valves are.

Which nut are you talking about? The big one against the flywheel? Or the small one I started with in the video? The big one is in there real good, that little one is the only issue I have. 

I'm going to pull the head when it cools down this week, I'm hoping the damage isn't too bad. 

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The 27mm nut is part of the flywheel. That's how you hold the engine from spinning while tightening the 17mm nut and the primary gear bolt. The flywheel fits on the end of the crank shaft and is timed by a woodruff keyway. The 17mm nut threads on to the end of the crank shaft to hold the flywheel on.

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Yes, as above. But the 27mm hex is not a nut, it is part of the flywheel.  The 17mm hex nut holds the flywheel on.  The flywheel is not completely loose because you an still turn the motor over with it.  However it may have sheared the key and slipped on the taper allowing the TDC mark to be in the wrong place and throwing the ignition timing way out of time.  The 17mm hex nut needs to come off so you can inspect the threads on the end of the crankshaft.  If the threads are stripped off, you are going to need a new crankshaft.  If the threads are OK a new nut should correct the problem.  You also need to remove the flywheel to replace the key that aligns the flywheel with the crankshaft.  Removing the flywheel requires a special puller assuming it is not so loose it just lifts off.

Don't get ahead of yourself removing the head.  You seem to still have compression so don't assume you have bent valves or any piston problems.  Correct the flywheel problem first and see if it will run when the flywheel is on right and the cams are in time.  I think what happened is you originally timed the cams correctly (and they are still correct) but then the flywheel slipped on the crankshaft so you lost the timing mark orientation between the crankshaft and the flywheel. That would explain most everything.

 

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I can't tell if that clank is the normal valve noise or not.
If you put a dial indicator down the spark plug hole you can find TDC to check how if and how far off the cams are. If you don't have a dial indicator, a pencil or something similar will probably work good enough.

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That (above) is a good idea.  Find TDC (it will not be exact but close enough) with a tool down the spark plug hole and see if piston TDC lines with the the mark on the flywheel. If not, the flywheel has defiantly shifted.

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