Jrog'theTrailBlazer

83/84 Xr500r jumped timing looking for engine specs

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Need help with my 83-84 xr500r jumped timing need someone who can give me the right motor specs as i know the manuals are not 100%. also pointers on my walkthrew thanks 

20170921_170751.jpg

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Helm Inc. They print the actual Honda factory manuals. If you don't really know what you're doing it'll be indispensable to you.

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Getting the motor in and out of the frame is fun (looks like you got one part done).. The rest is pretty straight forward, getting the cam chain tensioner in takes some creativity if you don't have the special tool.. 2 ways of doing it, installing the tensioner before putting the head on, allows you to do it with much less spring tension, but makes it harder to put the cam in... the other way you have to deal with the spring tension, I wrapped some wire around it and was able to pull on it then slide the pin in.

Stripped threads might be a problem if it's been monkeyed with before.. Mine was a total nightmare and had to retap the cylinder for 4 of the 6 bolts, and many of the valve cover bolts too.

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I have a youtube video for the 600r that ive followed and they are basically same with a few differences, i know how to get to the timing chain, need help check the cam and cam sprocket wear as well as tensioners and guides. I can pay 450$ to have done but wouldnt mind learning myself since im a diy kinda guy and i could put that money elsewhere if some things are major wrong. Plus i have the time and space. I know i should get paper manual for torque specs and tolernces but people should have access to these specs without purchase. I have downloaded one for my kfx and its helped a ton. Why isnt there one for these old bikes?

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:facepalm:   You'll pay somebody $450 to probably do a half assed job , but you're too cheap to spend $40 on a manual ?   :lame:

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I would be willing to bet that it's just the chain tensioner that's bad, there's a "ratchet" in it and they die sometimes, allowing it to flop around... If the bike still has good compression, etc, I'd get a tensioner assembly and install it.. can all be done from the top side.. Set the engine to TDC, get the cam back in time (cam gear screws vertical) and install tensioner.

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Yeah she still has good compression, but im praying minimal bolts are messed! that would be blessing if just the tensioner and reset cams n voila i will pull valve cover off tonight and post some pics thanks for help 

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I just bought a spare tensioner off ebay with my parts order, otherwise I'd send you the link to it... Seller was independent-cycle there.. Another one is "New life cycles" and can be found on facebook, though with the fires that went through their town this summer they are a little in disarray.. phoning them is the best bet

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Keep it oem or any good aftermarket? What parts of the assembly should be ordering ? #5 is what lets go? thought #4 was tensioner. 3 is stated as the tensioner

Screenshot_2017-09-23-18-35-48.png

Edited by Jrog'theTrailBlazer

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It's unlikely you're going to find aftermarket for something this old.. #5 is the tensioner spring, #4 is the tensioner arm, which has the "ratchet" in it, and #7 is the pin..  I'd replace all 3 if any of them were suspect.

The slippers, #3 and #8 never seem to wear out... I would however check the cam chain itself.. On one of mine it went stiff if you flexed it backward from the wear on the sprocket teeth.. I would also run it through and check EVERY link to make sure none are broken or bent.. That's what happened on my 400.. 2 of the 3 plates were broken, and I have no idea why.. I got lucky I shut it down before it totally let go
 

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It's the second mark on the flywheel, the first one is the F mark (ignition fire), second (right mark) is top

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Weird cause with the cam up top level with head, it shows the mark i took pic of crank, it looks off sideways i didnt take pic level but that straight line it exactly at top. scratch beside it aswell or tiny flake off. Also how do i get tensioner out it has no bolt jus pull that pin out? N pop up?

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It's not shown in the diagram, but the shaft (#7) has a hole in the end, there's a pin that goes in that hole that gets pulled straight up with some pliers (don't loose it down in the crankcase) The valve cover holds the pin down and in place.

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In the first picture you posted of the head, right by the lower left (right intake on the bike) valve you can see the retainer pin.

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