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Well I have a question and I’m hoping I’m going in the right direction here. I just got done with the race this past Sunday, and after I washed the bike I started it and let it warm up for a bit. While it was on the stand, I pulled in the clutch lever put the shifter into first gear in the bike automatically died. So then I did it again this time cracking the throttle a little bit and while the clutch is pulled in the rear tire will spin as if the clutch was being let out even though it is pulled to the bar. Did I fry my clutch plates in the race?  I tried adjusting the clutch as tight as possible but it still did it. Thanks

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Yeah but the clutch is not working when it is pulled into the bar. It is like putting the bike in first gear without even touching the clutch lever the bike will just shut off. 

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How much free play at the lever? How's cable adjustment?
It's easy to lay the bike on the left side, remove clutch cover and plates to measure thickness.

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Going into it now. I just used my hand and pushed the Kickstarter by hand in neutral and the rear tire turns. And I put the bike in first gear and pulled the clutch in and tried to spin the rear tire and no go the bike sounds like u are turning the tire without touching the clutch like the clutch plates are stuck. 

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Well then, you are past the wear limit on the friction plates. Tusk is not that great, EBC is good if you get the hi priced one. Above $115 bucks with friction/steel plates and springs. 

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Okay here are some pics. First off there is no notching on the basket or the inner hub just marks from where the plates rested. My question though is why does the pressure plate look scratched on the outside, but the clutch cover is not scratched inside??   

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What else I noticed was that when I pulled the clutch lever in only the first outer 8 plates moved the next 8 inner stayed in place. I also drained the oil and found goldish looking flakes in the oil. Little metal shavings. No metal chunks. Just goldish looking shavings. 

Edited by Yamalube317

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Goldfish flakes are the fiber plates. What does the end of pushrod #2 look like as it connects to pushrod #1? If it mushroomed, than you could need those as well. All wear items, if clutch cable adjustments will not fix problem. 

Copy: Fiber disc thickness, warped metal plates, pushrods worn and mushroomed, cable stretched.

The scraping look is a previous owner had a problem prior to your ownership. If you are the only owner, factory grinds for balancing. But it looks like you are a new owner, as the clutch plate bolts are incorrect from what I have seen. 

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32 minutes ago, 2 STOKE YZ DOC said:

Goldfish flakes are the fiber plates. What does the end of pushrod #2 look like as it connects to pushrod #1? If it mushroomed, than you could need those as well. All wear items, if clutch cable adjustments will not fix problem. 

Copy: Fiber disc thickness, warped metal plates, pushrods worn and mushroomed, cable stretched.

The scraping look is a previous owner had a problem prior to your ownership. If you are the only owner, factory grinds for balancing. But it looks like you are a new owner, as the clutch plate bolts are incorrect from what I have seen. 

What do you mean incorrect?  Yes I’m the new owner of this bike since last November. I’ll post a pic of the pressure plate. I noticed in the race that the clutch pull was becoming tougher and tougher as the race went on. Then I got a pinch flat and that was that. 

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Can I run the honda two stroke clutch oil in this bike?  I never had a problem with that stuff. What would I take to be able to run the Honda red, do I need to flush it or something?  What I’m still not understanding is this, why is it now that with all the plates removed and the bike is in neutral that the rear tire just ever so slightly turns when I am pushing the Kickstarter by hand?  

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5 minutes ago, Yamalube317 said:

Can I run the honda two stroke clutch oil in this bike?  I never had a problem with that stuff. What would I take to be able to run the Honda red, do I need to flush it or something?  What I’m still not understanding is this, why is it now that with all the plates removed and the bike is in neutral that the rear tire just ever so slightly turns when I am pushing the Kickstarter by hand?  

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All I run is Honda HP 80/85 in my two strokes. Run it, and drain it after the 2-3 hours, run it, and drain it after 5 hours. The run it for however long you run your trans oil (10 hours max with a lot of clutching).

I guess the bolts on the newer clutch plats are not 10mm and philips head, just 10mm.

The pushrod #2 looks pretty mushroomed, so I would check #1 also. Bet thats your problem.

Back wheel still wanting to move, new bike, tight transmission I would guess. 

The grinding marks are balancing and cleaning up casting if you are the original owner. (as I stated above)

Why did you draw a line?

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Lol the line. I’m anal and want everything back the exact same way it came out except the plates of course. How do I get the #1 rod out?

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1 hour ago, Yamalube317 said:

23&24 right? What else would I need? 

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new #26. That rod/shaft only comes out when the flywheel is removed, and the allen set screw is taken out. #27 located just in front of case saver.

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Okay now this brings me to the next question. How hard is it to pull the flywheel and also change that oil seal number 26?  What is the correct part number for the flywheel puller?  I want the best puller so not to mushroom the crank threads!!!  I was hoping I didn’t have to get into this much work lol. I figured it was just the plates and that was it. I would have never guessed to pull that shaft and study it for mushrooming until you said that. 

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9 hours ago, 2 STOKE YZ DOC said:

new #26. That rod/shaft only comes out when the flywheel is removed, and the allen set screw is taken out. #27 located just in front of case saver.

Is the right one if I order everything today I can do this job fri night?  Hell since the fw has to come off I guess I’ll try that gytr fww.  

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Edited by Yamalube317

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5 hours ago, Yamalube317 said:

Is the right one if I order everything today I can do this job fri night?  Hell since the fw has to come off I guess I’ll try that gytr fww.  

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They should say on the top what bike it fits. I would say there are only a few, but in parts at RMATV it will say Fits XXXXX

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